pico reef pest algae problem challenge

I recommend not diluting it any further 3 percent

even at that dosage it takes 5 days

in my opinion it's worth the time to spot treat each tiny patch
can you post some before pictures
pouring the peroxide directly over the affected areas will work
and thats still some what of a controlled application
 
Brandon the tank is looking phenomenal. I will have to take pics and post tonight. The clean up crew took care of the dead spots, just looked one day when I got home from work and it was all gone. I still will need to retreat a couple areas, any suggestions on how to treat the base of my toad stool and cabbage?
 
Also I have some red bubbles growing on some rock, any suggestions? Finding this thread was a god send. I think the initial culprit in my case was using green water I was growing and I was potentially over feeding with it since my skimmer was not adequate. That problem has since been resolved with the purchase of a EShopps PSK150.
 
Excellent follow up it saved my tank too when reefmiser showed it to me!

Hit those red spots the same
the tissue around the base of the toadstool can take a spot treatment no prob
I wouldn't dip the whole thing but deep in the nano reef thread there is a toadstool spot treatment that ran just fine
 
I recommend not diluting it any further 3 percent

even at that dosage it takes 5 days

in my opinion it's worth the time to spot treat each tiny patch
can you post some before pictures
pouring the peroxide directly over the affected areas will work
and thats still some what of a controlled application

Ya ill see if i can get some pics this weekend. Im just worried i will mis some spots with the spot treatment, and i wont find out until its in the new tank.
 
Oh I see what you mean. On the nr peroxide thread everyone that dips is using half peroxide half saltwater for a 50 50 mixture of 1.5% as long as you don't have certain organisms on the rock listed as sensitive that w be fine

It won't harm the rock or bacteria.
 
I thought I would post a new pic of my tank today compared with one taken in Oct 2011.

Oct 2011. You can clearly see GHA everywhere.
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Today (rocks first treated with H2O2 on 1/6/12) There are a few unreachable spots that still have GHA but they are gradually receding.
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All I can say is H2O2 saved my tank and gave me renewed interest in the hobby.:bounce3:
 
Yes, I never dosed the whole tank. The rocks were either washed with 50:50 H2O2 or dipped in it if there is no coral on it. Only a few pieces have to be retreated so far. It is now much more manageable.
 
Simon your pictures are great

none of the treated areas seems to bleach

it shows that manual removal can work sometimes instead of changing the water chemistry

this is a picture of me using a wire holder like a Paas Easter egg dip
Peroxide as a preventative...dipped right up to the mass but not on it
 

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OK, 90 gallon long term sps tank with Leopard Wrasses and other sensitive fish...some rock can be removed, others cannot and even at 90% water removal, some algae will still be on base of rock with fish flopping to their death in stress....

what say you?

help me on my Bryopsis removal to insure all coral, fish, and inverts are safe! I am at day 40 on Kent Tech Marine, and 85% has been resolved, however, 15% at various points in tank are wanting to stay.......Kent Mag at 2000.

Change GFO weekly, and use Vodka....ulns.......never had an issue in years until I had a sick leopard that I overfed for months until way over recovered....BAM!
 
Post us up a pic w can make a strategy

we know of no fish that show sensitivity at any practical dosage, no worries w the wrasses its inverts and corals we plan around

Sps are also not particularly sensitive even though 1 would think they would be


sight unseen i'm betting your best bet is the systemic dosage technique of spot injecting the tufts, w a syringe, while the pumps are off. This concentrates the dose on the target and allows rocks to stay down low

Based off pics we will know
Do u have any cleaner shrimp
 
Sorry, no pics.

I have a 90, mostly SPS, with some Acans, etc...


4 leopard wrasses, a Tamarin, and other.....

I run an ULNS, that was until I over fed a sick Leopard that has since recovered. So a few months ago I decided to use Tech-M... It worked great until I changed my carbon....I also had multiple species of Algae. Some success.

then, I tried Algae fix...some success.

About 6 weeks ao, I decided to retry Tech-M without using carbon and less water changes..Very, very slowly this feather looking macro algae started dieting off, but in the die off my SPS started to have recession. whether this was from phosphates being released, nitrates, crazy high Mag, or whatever that was in the Tech-M that affects the algae, I don't know...

About a week sgo maybe 70-80% was dead, with some small patches too many places, some recoverying, some dieing, some maintaining status quo.

A couple nights ago I decided to mix some kalk and mag and at night, I bombed some patches. today these patches are struggling to live, but alas, they are still hanging on.

I had some nice dead rock that I started soaking in Hydrogen Peroxide at 3% for a minimum of five minutes in preparation.

My left and right side have the ability to remove rocks, pull off frags, and soak rock, whereas the center 30%, has no way of removing....

I planned on lowering water level to hit some unmovable rock, however, as I went down to about 40% left, my wrasses became too stressed....

Ok, so I removed left side, soaked each rock for at least five minutes in 3%, then rinsed and then soaked in saltwater for 15 minutes...I placed back in tank, along with some of that older dry rock that I prepared earlier.

Then, I did the right side...

I took a one ml syringe that u would use for Aptaisa killer and tried to get an area on my center area.

ok, tanks back up and running, looks great!

Will that syringe work? Or do I need a medical one?

Any other suggestions or advice?
 
It sounds good so far for the restrictions you are under

If we are dealing with already challenged sps then it makes me want to increase safety variables for your partial systemic treatment
Just brainstorming it sounds safe to:
Take the treatments in increments rather than all at once (for the areas treated inside the tank)

run decent exporting water changes, siphoned and replaced gently matching temp and sg, before the next treatment

Both of these give increased dissociation time to maximize safety
The one ml syringe sounds like a safe start. Pics aren't intended to showcase a tanks bad side its to give hidden clues for application shortcuts etc

Still the stuff is predictable enough to run in type if we plan safely
Your external spot treatments are great its this last in tank mode I'd like to approach conservatively

Since your system is ulns i'm assuming its bare bottom
That's nice in that repeated water changes won't be kicking up detritus

IMO since your leopard has been stressed recently you w have to find the best medium between systemic dosage, export and refill etc.

I also like the idea of waiting to judge your external treatments and take that last submerged bit over the next week or so.

peroxide will certainly kill the bryopsis I just don't wanna rush it
Thanks for the updates i'm glad you started!
 
ok as promised i we were very busy this weekend.we took all the rocks out and sprayed them then rinsed also decided to go bare bottom took out 320lbs of sand.then did a 90 gallon water change this was done on monday here's before and after

before
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after

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P2213123.jpg


now mind you all the rocks were covered like in the before pics i know its still early but they look 1000 times better.still have to redo the rock work next weekend and get a little more sand out.the algae on the rocks have turned grayish white will keep you posted..
 
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