pico reef pest algae problem challenge
- Thread starter brandon429
- Start date
brandon429
Active member
no thats the death phase they will either be eaten or fall off soon lol
brandon429
Active member
The conclusion to Marks invasive macro treatment:
Thank you for letting me caption pics and text ~
His summary captioned from nr.com:
I've taken more pics but nothing to note. Algae has all but vanish in the 40, and in the 46 it's nearly gone, though some areas still green even though directly treated.* Not many.* FTS of the 46.
*
*
The trumpets are showing improvement and less discoloration now even after full treatment.* I find that odd.* Slight exposure to peroxide causes quick and dramatic discoloration while full exposure doesn't seem to increase the discoloration or the length of time it remains discolored.** Polyp extension at night is still good, as if nothing happened.
Thank you for letting me caption pics and text ~
His summary captioned from nr.com:
I've taken more pics but nothing to note. Algae has all but vanish in the 40, and in the 46 it's nearly gone, though some areas still green even though directly treated.* Not many.* FTS of the 46.
*
*
The trumpets are showing improvement and less discoloration now even after full treatment.* I find that odd.* Slight exposure to peroxide causes quick and dramatic discoloration while full exposure doesn't seem to increase the discoloration or the length of time it remains discolored.** Polyp extension at night is still good, as if nothing happened.
Attachments
maddmaxx
New member
so question for ya Brandon. in a short few months im goin to be moving back to my house in new jersey, its a 3hr ride from where im at now. the base rocks that have the cotton candy on them, or any rocks for that matter, when I remove them from the tank for the trip back home. what would you recommend me to do treatment wise before packing them up and shipping them off?
should I toothbrush what I can off and treat with peroxide? should I place them is some water wit peroxide in it? if so what ratio? im not really tryin to have this in the system when I transfer everything back to Jersey..
should I toothbrush what I can off and treat with peroxide? should I place them is some water wit peroxide in it? if so what ratio? im not really tryin to have this in the system when I transfer everything back to Jersey..
brandon429
Active member
MM my best offer as boring as this may sound is to take the time to treat them incredibly well with undiluted straight applications when you are taking things down far enough to get to them, its a rare opportunity to blast them clean
I'd just use straight 3% right on them and since you are disassembling you can retreat the spots several times over to really get them
The amount of work you've done up to now, and the upcoming weeks before your move, will tell us about any regrowth rates to be expected after your move imo
I'd just use straight 3% right on them and since you are disassembling you can retreat the spots several times over to really get them
The amount of work you've done up to now, and the upcoming weeks before your move, will tell us about any regrowth rates to be expected after your move imo
donkeys4hire
New member
What type of algae is this? How do I remove it?
brandon429
Active member
Hi! We can start by removing the rock and treating externally but I really need a full tank shot to see what else is in the tank
donkeys4hire
New member
brandon429
Active member
Absolutely easy clean here. The one sensitive is xenia so pour around it. Your tank will be algae free in five days.
This is a classic example of not jacking with tank chemistry, waiting weeks and overdoing things, when 20 mins of work will work better.
Literally you lift out each rock one by one and pour peroxide across the bad parts holding over the sink right out the bottle, nothing particular here. Let sit out of tank for 2 min. Does not harm coral or recycle rock. If you mess up your xenia is the risk. Remove bottom rocks carefully to avoid kicking up detritus. Rinse rocks very well clean saltwater before returning. These are not peroxide sensitive fish. A new bottle of peroxide ensures its not flat, like ones in the medicine cabinet may be.
Follow up pics in a few days please!!
This is a classic example of not jacking with tank chemistry, waiting weeks and overdoing things, when 20 mins of work will work better.
Literally you lift out each rock one by one and pour peroxide across the bad parts holding over the sink right out the bottle, nothing particular here. Let sit out of tank for 2 min. Does not harm coral or recycle rock. If you mess up your xenia is the risk. Remove bottom rocks carefully to avoid kicking up detritus. Rinse rocks very well clean saltwater before returning. These are not peroxide sensitive fish. A new bottle of peroxide ensures its not flat, like ones in the medicine cabinet may be.
Follow up pics in a few days please!!
brandon429
Active member
donkeys4hire
New member
brandon429
Active member
Lol frag mis id!
You are really going to like the outcome. Pour around those zos, hit all the bad parts of the rock and in five days it will look like you never had it. The best part here is no coral contact since your seascape is wide open access
Regarding long term fix, repeat as often as you like or focus more on grazing and p limiting, either way.
You are really going to like the outcome. Pour around those zos, hit all the bad parts of the rock and in five days it will look like you never had it. The best part here is no coral contact since your seascape is wide open access
Regarding long term fix, repeat as often as you like or focus more on grazing and p limiting, either way.
natron
New member
I have just dipped a few hand sized monties and a toxic hammer in a like 25%/75% solution...full coral submerged. I did this as a preventive measure as I was unsure of what may have been hidden in or on these corals(I picked them up this eve from a local).Im hoping I didn't just kill them.......
brandon429
Active member
I give the hammer an 85% chance of success the montipora about 75% if they were not receding when bought, good growers, I think it will need some heal time but no I don't predict a total wipeout. Post pics quick if you can so we can track it
I once lived near lordsburg nm down south you know where that is
I once lived near lordsburg nm down south you know where that is
Actually, it was a full dip in full strength 3% peroxide. Swished it around (fully submerged) for a few seconds, exposed it to the air for maybe 15 seconds while I pulled off the biggest chunks of algae with my fingers (it was far from "clean", but I didn't want the dying algae to release its nutrients), swished it around thoroughly in a container of tank water, returned it to the tank, then used a turkey baster to blow off the bubbles and other gunk.
Hi Brandon,
Just got done reading the 55 pages......interesting reading. I have tried the peroxide 3percent new bottle on some coral skeletons with a gross amount of hair algae on them. I also dripped on a rock with some mushrooms on them. Half a day later and the algae is turning white, so I know the end of the algae is near. I could have used bleach, but this seemed much easier. I will post some pics. Thank you for your efforts in this thread.
Just got done reading the 55 pages......interesting reading. I have tried the peroxide 3percent new bottle on some coral skeletons with a gross amount of hair algae on them. I also dripped on a rock with some mushrooms on them. Half a day later and the algae is turning white, so I know the end of the algae is near. I could have used bleach, but this seemed much easier. I will post some pics. Thank you for your efforts in this thread.
brandon429
Active member
Thank you for posting nice to meet you!
MiracleFish
New member
Here's my algae problem
brandon429
Active member
100% love the challenge you will be surprised at the difference we can make. Im about to get some more really good after pics
since we are months into this, no hurry to start. Id like a good amount of the exchange to be prep work and brainstorms before we start.
You can see from this thread we haven't spent much if any time actually id'ing anything except the obvious targets. because its not needed to kill them, thats the point of the thread...we just clean tanks and let others do the id'ing to learn from as needed.
Your target is highly susceptible to this treatment and the rocks will show a huge improvement fast and Im not sure what it is
but Ive seen this before, lots of times, and as predictions go on this thread it will respond well to our treatment.
initial brainstorms:
some of the anemones could be stressed from the treatment although there isnt a big history of them dying. not much else is ultra sensitive in that tank, since the substrate is fairly clean this is easier than some jobs where the substrate is loaded with various algae, rock alone pretty much intertwined with coral is about what we have been doing the whole time here. so let me start by asking, is 100% of the rock glued and unremovable?
is there any part you can take out, externally spot treat, let sit, rinse, and put back in without hand removing the algae? you can see from recent pages, before undertaking big tasks a test rock is awesome, it gives us the expected kill time to expect for the rest of the tank before you put 11 hours of straight work into it.
The drain and treat we talked about in pm:
yes thats a real valid option here, and probably the best way not to stress any of the corals in the tank. The technique where we dose underwater is always, always, second best to any treatment where the water isn't present to distribute the peroxide around the tank onto the non targets.
any amount of repeat work you are willing to do for rock structure removal, what can be, or repeated tank drains is ideal in fixing your problem. brainstorm that with me and let us know about removable test rocks
on the tank drain I was meaning to drain it to where you can access a target area, dose, pour some water back on that spot, then change out a portion of the leftover water to export out the peroxide.
since this is a large tank, it is absolutely possible to drain tank, spot treat, refill, and let a calculated safe amnt of peroxide simply dissipate from the tank without all the extra changes.
that last pic, the zoanthid rock on the foreground substrate, you can lift that one out right? if you can use that as a test rock, remove and apply peroxide avoiding the zoanthids as best you can right on the algae, let sit two mins out of the tank, rinse and place back in. if some contacts the zoanthids its ok, but for good practice start applying around the corals using targeting applicators
since we are months into this, no hurry to start. Id like a good amount of the exchange to be prep work and brainstorms before we start.
You can see from this thread we haven't spent much if any time actually id'ing anything except the obvious targets. because its not needed to kill them, thats the point of the thread...we just clean tanks and let others do the id'ing to learn from as needed.
Your target is highly susceptible to this treatment and the rocks will show a huge improvement fast and Im not sure what it is
but Ive seen this before, lots of times, and as predictions go on this thread it will respond well to our treatment.
initial brainstorms:
some of the anemones could be stressed from the treatment although there isnt a big history of them dying. not much else is ultra sensitive in that tank, since the substrate is fairly clean this is easier than some jobs where the substrate is loaded with various algae, rock alone pretty much intertwined with coral is about what we have been doing the whole time here. so let me start by asking, is 100% of the rock glued and unremovable?
is there any part you can take out, externally spot treat, let sit, rinse, and put back in without hand removing the algae? you can see from recent pages, before undertaking big tasks a test rock is awesome, it gives us the expected kill time to expect for the rest of the tank before you put 11 hours of straight work into it.
The drain and treat we talked about in pm:
yes thats a real valid option here, and probably the best way not to stress any of the corals in the tank. The technique where we dose underwater is always, always, second best to any treatment where the water isn't present to distribute the peroxide around the tank onto the non targets.
any amount of repeat work you are willing to do for rock structure removal, what can be, or repeated tank drains is ideal in fixing your problem. brainstorm that with me and let us know about removable test rocks
on the tank drain I was meaning to drain it to where you can access a target area, dose, pour some water back on that spot, then change out a portion of the leftover water to export out the peroxide.
since this is a large tank, it is absolutely possible to drain tank, spot treat, refill, and let a calculated safe amnt of peroxide simply dissipate from the tank without all the extra changes.
that last pic, the zoanthid rock on the foreground substrate, you can lift that one out right? if you can use that as a test rock, remove and apply peroxide avoiding the zoanthids as best you can right on the algae, let sit two mins out of the tank, rinse and place back in. if some contacts the zoanthids its ok, but for good practice start applying around the corals using targeting applicators
