PLEASE check out your intended fish purchases here first!

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Hi Steve,

I just now noticed you did reply to my inquiry about getting the yellow clown gobies and suggested two was a bad idea. I ended up getting two as I did not see your reply. For the past 5 days, the two have seen fine, they're pretty inactive fish and have stayed away from each other it seems, and the two percs do not seem to be bothering them. Might I be OK or is there some sort of signs of problems I should watch out for?

To recap, I only had the 2 perculas and about 40lbs of rock in my 40 gallon breeder.

Thanks!

Often times what works in the beginning does not work long term. On the other hand, what sometimes does not work in the beginning, will settle down and work longer term (which is why acclimation boxes work). In general clowns will ignore clown gobies but clown gobies will not get along.
 
Hi, been lurking for a while and doing research to get this far.

I have a 29 gallon tank, Aquafuge 2 with skimmer, 2 inches of aragonite substrate, 50 lbs of live fiji rock, a Marineland C-160 canister filter, and I am adding a Maxi-Jet 900 with a timer for waves in the tank, T5 HO lights on timers 12on/12off. I have 7 snails and an emerald crab so far. Tank is about 2 months old and has good algae growth going on. Will be adding mushrooms, polyps, and zoas to get started with corals. I will be setting up my 10 gallon quarantine tank this weekend so I can start looking at my first fish choice.

These are my choices for fish, looking for best compatibilities before final choices are made. Hope to have 5-6 fish total.

2 Ocellaris clowns (tank raised) - want these for sure

(Any of these choices will only have 1 fish)
Pajama Cardinalfish
Banggai Cardinalfish
Yellow Striped Cardinalfish
Orchid Dottyback
Neon Goby
Purple Firefish
Chaulk Bass
Yellow or Blue Assessor
Yellowhead Jawfish
Highfin Blennie

Thanks for the help!
~Matt
 
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Hi, been lurking for a while and doing research to get this far.

I have a 29 gallon tank, Aquafuge 2 with skimmer, 2 inches of aragonite substrate, 50 lbs of live fiji rock, a Marineland C-160 canister filter, and I am adding a Maxi-Jet 900 with a timer for waves in the tank, T5 HO lights on timers 12on/12off. I have 7 snails and an emerald crab so far. Tank is about 2 months old and has good algae growth going on. Will be adding mushrooms, polyps, and zoas to get started with corals. I will be setting up my 10 gallon quarantine tank this weekend so I can start looking at my first fish choice.

These are my choices for fish, looking for best compatibilities before final choices are made. Hope to have 5-6 fish total.

2 Ocellaris clowns (tank raised) - want these for sure

(Any of these choices will only have 1 fish)
Pajama Cardinalfish
Banggai Cardinalfish excellent fish
Yellow Striped Cardinalfish
Orchid Dottyback very aggressive, recommend against
Neon Goby excellent fish
Purple Firefish excellent fish
Chaulk Bass
Yellow or Blue Assessor excellent fish
Yellowhead Jawfish excellent fish but needs sand and a covered top as they jump
Highfin Blennie excellent fish

Thanks for the help!
~Matt
 
I have decided to upgrade my 60g to a 180g fish tank.

Only one of the following but not sure which
Niger Trigger
Clown Trigger
Humu Picasso Trigger
Undulate Trigger

I was thinking these as the rest of my stock but wasn't sure which I should go with
Emperor Angel
Chevron Tang
Bennet's Sharpnose Puffer
Mombasa Lionfish
Fox Face Lo
Thornback Cowfish
 
I'm planning a 40 breeder with 20 gal sump with refugium, 2 ½" sand bed, LED lighting, screen cover. Corals in my current tank "“ which I plan to move to the 40 are: frogspawn, GSP, open brain, duncan, clove polyps, acans, candy cane, zoas, monti cap. Also have one 2" clam.

Currently I have:

Pair of ocellaris clowns
Pair of green banded gobies
Cleaner shrimp
Pair of sexy shrimp
Nassarius snails
Turbo snails
trochus snails
emerald crab
porcelain anemone crab

Would like to add:

Royal gramma
Hi-Fin goby/ candy cane pistol pair
Pair of banded pipefish
Red scooter dragonette
Pair of leopard wrasses
Starry blenny

Others to consider:

Fighting conch
Red serpent star
Red tile starfish
Tuxedo urchin
Any wrasse
Neon goby

Thanks very much! Open to suggestions too.
 
I have decided to upgrade my 60g to a 180g fish tank.

Only one of the following but not sure which
Niger Trigger
Clown Trigger
Humu Picasso Trigger
Undulate Trigger

I was thinking these as the rest of my stock but wasn't sure which I should go with
Emperor Angel
Chevron Tang
Bennet's Sharpnose Puffer
Mombasa Lionfish
Fox Face Lo
Thornback Cowfish

So sorry, I do not provide commentary or analysis on Aggressive Fish tanks. We do have an Aggressive tanks forum, however, and I am sure you will get many posts there.
 
I'm planning a 40 breeder with 20 gal sump with refugium, 2 ½" sand bed, LED lighting, screen cover. Corals in my current tank "“ which I plan to move to the 40 are: frogspawn, GSP, open brain, duncan, clove polyps, acans, candy cane, zoas, monti cap. Also have one 2" clam.

Currently I have:

Pair of ocellaris clowns
Pair of green banded gobies
Cleaner shrimp
Pair of sexy shrimp
Nassarius snails
Turbo snails
trochus snails
emerald crab
porcelain anemone crab

Would like to add:

Royal gramma excellent choice
Hi-Fin goby/ candy cane pistol pair excellent choice
Pair of banded pipefish difficult in this sized tank
Red scooter dragonette
Pair of leopard wrasses not really doable in this sized tank
Starry blenny

Others to consider:

Fighting conch excellent choice
Red serpent star
Red tile starfish
Tuxedo urchin
Any wrasse needs a larger tank
Neon goby excellent choice

Thanks very much! Open to suggestions too.
 
Thanks Steve.

I'm assuming that the ones you didn't make a note by are OK? Also, might one banded pipefish do well in a 40 (as opposed to a pair)? Or should I cross them off the list all together.

Appreciate it.
 
Thanks Steve.

I'm assuming that the ones you didn't make a note by are OK? Also, might one banded pipefish do well in a 40 (as opposed to a pair)? Or should I cross them off the list all together.

Appreciate it.

Best results for pipefish or dragonets is if they can graze constantly on copepods. Some people force the issue with Nutramar Ova or similar foods but grazers eat constantly albeit small amounts. I would only try them in larger tanks, preferably with refugiums. Ones with no notation are fine, ones with positive notation are better.
 
How many fish and a small clean up crew can you start with on a new 245 gallon tank.

Unfortunately that is an impossible question to answer. For small, docile fish, a fair number, for large aggressive fish, perhaps less than one.
 
Hi, i have a 15g cube + 20g sump. My filtration is an ATS,DSB,filterfoam.

I currently have 2 percs and i plan to put 1 royal gramma in it. Is it alright? or my Bioload will be too much?
 
My tank will be a mixed reef tank with reef safe fish and alot of SPS and some soft corals.

So no agressive fish and mostly smaller fish especially to start. So if I get the smaller fish first such as clowns, gobbies, firefish etc and maybe a shrimp and a small clean up crew, how many of this size fish should I get on my first order to stock the fish right after the tank cycles properly?
 
Hi, i have a 15g cube + 20g sump. My filtration is an ATS,DSB,filterfoam.

I currently have 2 percs and i plan to put 1 royal gramma in it. Is it alright? or my Bioload will be too much?

A 15 gallon tank is not really big enough for a pair of clownfish of any species so adding another fish is not a good idea.
 
My tank will be a mixed reef tank with reef safe fish and alot of SPS and some soft corals.

So no agressive fish and mostly smaller fish especially to start. So if I get the smaller fish first such as clowns, gobbies, firefish etc and maybe a shrimp and a small clean up crew, how many of this size fish should I get on my first order to stock the fish right after the tank cycles properly?

Well, first you had best develop a quarantine protocol or you will be reading the fish diseases forum. Secondly, slow down. Nothing good ever happens quickly in this hobby. Asking "numbers questions" suggests you are going too fast and need to think about a stocking plan rather than putting fish into a tank.
 
I understand that going slow is the right thing to do and that is what I have done. I have planned the build and the stocking carefully and have taken my time doing it right.

However, when I do my very first stocking, how many fish would be appropriate based on the size of the tank. I am not suggesting getting 20 fish, but it may be just as inappropriate to buy 1 or 2.

So, as I am seeking your expert advice on the very first stocking of the tank, how many smaller sized fish do you suggest for this tank.

On the first purchase, I see no reason to quarantine as there is no chance of giving a disease to another as I have no others. However if a fish comes very stressed or already sick, I would not add it to the display tank anyway.

I do appreciate your feedback on this forum as I feel its very useful to many members. Thank you.
 
I understand that going slow is the right thing to do and that is what I have done. I have planned the build and the stocking carefully and have taken my time doing it right.

However, when I do my very first stocking, how many fish would be appropriate based on the size of the tank. I am not suggesting getting 20 fish, but it may be just as inappropriate to buy 1 or 2.

If your tank is fully cycled, the biocapacity can easily handle 3-4 small fish


So, as I am seeking your expert advice on the very first stocking of the tank, how many smaller sized fish do you suggest for this tank.

On the first purchase, I see no reason to quarantine as there is no chance of giving a disease to another as I have no others. However if a fish comes very stressed or already sick, I would not add it to the display tank anyway.

That is not really the case. When you introduce a fish to your tank, even with no other fish, you give your tank a parasite that will require leaving the tank without fish from six to ten weeks to rid the tank of that parasite. You would not necessarily know if a fish has parasites as the three top parasites do not necessarily present visible symptoms. Since I spend (or spent) a large amount of time advising on parasite eradication, I have seen many, many examples.

I do appreciate your feedback on this forum as I feel its very useful to many members. Thank you.
 
Originally Posted by Wretch
Steve thanks for providing everyone with your expertise.

You are most welcome. I enjoy giving back to the hobby.

50g(36x18x18) DT 30g Sump(15g usable), Vertex IN80, 50lbs live rock, 1.5" of sand
Mixed reef mostly Zoas and LPS.

Carpenters Flasher Wrasse(2 or 3) added 1st A male and one or more female would work well, but remember that these are prolific jumpers so you will need a tightly closed top with 1/4 inch holes
Starcki Damsel
Indigo Dottyback(dottybacks added at the same time?)
Orchid Dottyback Dottybacks, in general are very aggressive and not compatible with flasher or fairy wrasses. Some people have had success with P. fridmani (Orchid Dottyback) but that is a roll of the dice.
Black Percula Clown

thanks for the help.

Steve thanks again for the help. I changed some fish around, how do these look?

Midas Blenny
4 line wrasse(maybe)
Flame Hawk
Indigo dottyback
Black Cap basslet
Potters Angel (not sure about this one yet due to difficulty, would be last in though)
 
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Questions re: algae, bioload, compatibility

Questions re: algae, bioload, compatibility

Brand new to the online community but I've had my 29 gal. biocube up and running for 9 months now. I have one bag of live sand on the bottom, 4 good chunks of live rock, a flame angel, sand sifting goby, six line wrasse, benggai cardinal, green sailfin molly, and two ocellaris clowns that are hosted on a bta.

The reef is made up of one hammer, a very large kenya tree that is reproducing like crazy, a purple mushroom frag with about 6 tops, a pom pom zenia and a green star polyp which is being overtaken by green hair algae.

The cleanup crew consists of one long spine urchin, 6 turbo snails, 2 sundial snails, 2 snails that cruise under the sand (not sure the name), one emerald crab and one decorator crab.

I also have a sea apple and a scallop that flashes orange. Additionally, there are little critters including tube worms, star fish, etc. that arrived with the lr.

I have the factory carbon filter in the back filtering the water before it goes into the bioball chamber. I then have phosphate and nitrate absorbers in the sump. I rotate a simple biocube skimmer and an inline uv thing that the lfs guy sold me in the first chamber but I'm not sure how to properly do this.

I had been running the factory lights, both the bright led and the blue one for 10 hours a day but I developed a serious green hair algae problem. I've since cut it back to five hours with both on and 3 hours with just the blue. This seems to halt the algae growth but I wasn't sure if the anemone, coral and good algae needed more light.

I bought the Molly to help with the algae but I think I'm going to return it to my lfs. The angel and the wrasse keep attacking it.

And finally, the decorator crab...Waldo...has me concerned. I've been reading how they can mow down a reef tank pretty quickly but so far he has only snipped a few kenya branches which are growing on his barbs. And the colonies he's snipped have grown back stronger within a few days. I tried target feeding him per the interweb with diced krill and brine shrimp but he doesn't seem interested...day or night. I'm afraid to leave excess food in the tank so I scoop it with a net if it goes uneaten after five minutes or so. I really don't want him to starve. The only things I've lost in the tank since i bought it are two banded coral shrimp, two striped cleaner shrimp and an emerald crab so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong to kill the inverts.

My water perameters are good, salinity 1.023, phosphates and nitrates nil, but I have just started testing my calcium levels and they are really high. I found out that the Kroger spring water I was using to top off has added calcium while the Kroger drinking water is carbon filtered/RO with no added calcium. Would high calcium levels lead to shrimp death?

If you're still reading I'm impressed, and appreciative. I did notice that when the latest banded coral shrimp kicked it yesterday, the wrasse and the angel tore its body apart. Did they have a role in its demise or only in the disposal of the carcass?

So I guess it all boils down to this...should I think about putting anything in a different tank because I overloaded this tank? How should I run the lights? Is the decorator crab safe long term? How should I run the skimmer and uv? What is killing my shrimp? Can I add another at some point? How do I know if anemone is healthy? How do I get rid of the algae (the toothbrush just seems to spread it)? How do I get my sand sifting goby to quit hiding and how do I make sure he's not starving under the rock/sand? Will it actually hurt to touch the anemone?

I know I threw a lot at you guys but if any of my questions could be answered I would be most appreciative.

Chad
 
Brand new to the online community but I've had my 29 gal. biocube up and running for 9 months now. I have one bag of live sand on the bottom, 4 good chunks of live rock, a flame angel, sand sifting goby, six line wrasse, benggai cardinal, green sailfin molly, and two ocellaris clowns that are hosted on a bta.

The reef is made up of one hammer, a very large kenya tree that is reproducing like crazy, a purple mushroom frag with about 6 tops, a pom pom zenia and a green star polyp which is being overtaken by green hair algae.

The cleanup crew consists of one long spine urchin, 6 turbo snails, 2 sundial snails, 2 snails that cruise under the sand (not sure the name), one emerald crab and one decorator crab.

I also have a sea apple and a scallop that flashes orange. Additionally, there are little critters including tube worms, star fish, etc. that arrived with the lr.

I have the factory carbon filter in the back filtering the water before it goes into the bioball chamber. I then have phosphate and nitrate absorbers in the sump. I rotate a simple biocube skimmer and an inline uv thing that the lfs guy sold me in the first chamber but I'm not sure how to properly do this.

I had been running the factory lights, both the bright led and the blue one for 10 hours a day but I developed a serious green hair algae problem. I've since cut it back to five hours with both on and 3 hours with just the blue. This seems to halt the algae growth but I wasn't sure if the anemone, coral and good algae needed more light.

I bought the Molly to help with the algae but I think I'm going to return it to my lfs. The angel and the wrasse keep attacking it.

And finally, the decorator crab...Waldo...has me concerned. I've been reading how they can mow down a reef tank pretty quickly but so far he has only snipped a few kenya branches which are growing on his barbs. And the colonies he's snipped have grown back stronger within a few days. I tried target feeding him per the interweb with diced krill and brine shrimp but he doesn't seem interested...day or night. I'm afraid to leave excess food in the tank so I scoop it with a net if it goes uneaten after five minutes or so. I really don't want him to starve. The only things I've lost in the tank since i bought it are two banded coral shrimp, two striped cleaner shrimp and an emerald crab so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong to kill the inverts.

My water perameters are good, salinity 1.023, phosphates and nitrates nil, but I have just started testing my calcium levels and they are really high. I found out that the Kroger spring water I was using to top off has added calcium while the Kroger drinking water is carbon filtered/RO with no added calcium. Would high calcium levels lead to shrimp death?

If you're still reading I'm impressed, and appreciative. I did notice that when the latest banded coral shrimp kicked it yesterday, the wrasse and the angel tore its body apart. Did they have a role in its demise or only in the disposal of the carcass?

So I guess it all boils down to this...should I think about putting anything in a different tank because I overloaded this tank? How should I run the lights? Is the decorator crab safe long term? How should I run the skimmer and uv? What is killing my shrimp? Can I add another at some point? How do I know if anemone is healthy? How do I get rid of the algae (the toothbrush just seems to spread it)? How do I get my sand sifting goby to quit hiding and how do I make sure he's not starving under the rock/sand? Will it actually hurt to touch the anemone?

I know I threw a lot at you guys but if any of my questions could be answered I would be most appreciative.

Chad

This thread is only about marine fish compatibility. I provide commentary and marine fish behavior and suitability to the environment you provide. All the other questions should be a separate thread in New to the Hobby.

[welcome]
 
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