Prisitine plumbing thread!

The correct way to join PVC is Glue and Primer. Why would want to forgo doing something properly to save no time... and a paltry amount of money.

On top of that., your joints have a much higher tendency to leak if primer is not used.......that's why it's made and mandated under code for residential plumbing.

PVC joined with just glue..... Physical Bond

PVC joined correct w/ glue and primer..... Chemical Bond

If you want to risk leaks and having to cut out plumbing because you don't think you need primer.... go right ahead. I'll spend the extra $2-3$ and do the job correctly, and not have a single worry about a leak.

You can also get clear primer. You might not be able to find it at Home Depot, but it's available.

Glue + primer:

This is not a chemical bond. The primer in no way alters either the chemistry of the pipe or the chemistry of the "glue" The primer merely cleans the pipe, and softens the surface of the pipe. The glue is a solvent, with some solids dissolved in it, that further melts the pipe and fittings. This bond is strictly a physical bond--Chemical Bond denoting a mutual attraction between two atoms resulting from a redistribution of their outer electrons. It is nothing but melted pvc. The primer is only REQUIRED for SAFTEY in pipe diameters of 4" or larger. Correct glueing procedures make good bonds. The primer is unnecessary, for clean unused pipe, and the bond is every bit more than strong enough for the dismal low pressures with aquariums, and it does not have a tendancy to leak, even after 20 years of use. It is technique, not buying more gunk.
 
Last edited:
This is from the old tank. I will shoot photos of the new tank (in build process now) as soon as I finish the plumbing. This system had the sump broken into a skimmer compartment and a refugium compartment with "dirty" water hitting the fuge without first going through the skimmer. The center 3/4" was the output for a closed loop and reactor filter system as well as a drain line for water change. The 3/4" was the main feed from the sump return pump and fed out to the chiller and UV sterilizer. The far 3/4" was the second return pump outlet and had an attachment to hook a external hose to to put water back into the system. The ball valves shut each segment off for maintenance and the gates controlled the flow rate.

022309starfiretankplumbing.jpg


plumbinginaction-051809.jpg

Second photo with reactors in place:
 
Not a tank, but still pristine, and this thread could always use a bump.

Conduit work from my father. 50 different 1in pipes

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 0405121204.jpg
    0405121204.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 2
Tank6.jpg



I am upgrating from my 90g to 125 and was looking for plumbing ideas.

have a quit question about those reactor outlets.
I understand that they are feed from return pump so my question is is there enough pressure for it??
I would like to use that idea for my dual brs reactor, ATS, and uv.

What is the reason for the water returning back to the sump??


drummereef could you post a new pic of your syetem running??
thank you
 
there can be it is just dependent on the return pump that you get !
say you need 300gph per hook up you have 4 pick ups that means u need 1200gph right there alone plues what every you want going to mdt pluse 20% to 30% more
 
HOLY CRAP.....I have no idea what the hell half of this plumbing is doing, but DAMN it's beautiful. I'm starting a 220gal and now I'm scared!!! lol
Do you get the gray/black pvc from hardware store??
 
there can be it is just dependent on the return pump that you get !
say you need 300gph per hook up you have 4 pick ups that means u need 1200gph right there alone plues what every you want going to mdt pluse 20% to 30% more

I want to upgrate to 125g so lets say i would like two outlets for reactors, and 3 to 5 times water to go thrught my sump would 900g pump do it? i am thinking about eihem 1262
 
Back
Top