That's a good point. I wonder if anyone's takena pic like that.
Prolific/Growth using actinics only !!!!
- Thread starter MUCHO REEF
- Start date
manhorsedog
New member
i have a biocube 14 with one actinics and one 50/50
i keep the actinics on from 12-9 and the 50/50 on from 3-5
all of my zoas really love it and grow like weeds. Most of my polyps have gone from five or less to over 50 in six months.
i keep the actinics on from 12-9 and the 50/50 on from 3-5
all of my zoas really love it and grow like weeds. Most of my polyps have gone from five or less to over 50 in six months.
A. Grandis
Active member
Actinic only for "photosynthetic inverts"?
I personally don't believe it would be appropriate.
Talking about zoanthids... they are found mostly in shallow waters and should be treated with a spectrum that would resemble their natural environment for best metabolism and health.
That's my point of view on the subject, my friend.
I certainly enjoy when the actinic comes on early morning and late afternoon in my tank!
I'm happy to enjoy the fluorescent pigments while their are on.
Grandis.
I personally don't believe it would be appropriate.
Talking about zoanthids... they are found mostly in shallow waters and should be treated with a spectrum that would resemble their natural environment for best metabolism and health.
That's my point of view on the subject, my friend.
I certainly enjoy when the actinic comes on early morning and late afternoon in my tank!
I'm happy to enjoy the fluorescent pigments while their are on.Grandis.
I have heard it's possible, I just find it hard to believe and was hoping someone here who had made the attempt and was willing to share their results.
Mucho
Mucho
mighties_keeper
New member
Mucho Great Thread!
I have watched my zoas and palys open and look to enjoy my actinics. I know that I enjoy watching them more at night.
Wondering if natural moon light makes for romantic polyp growth.
I have watched my zoas and palys open and look to enjoy my actinics. I know that I enjoy watching them more at night.
Wondering if natural moon light makes for romantic polyp growth.
Thanks fellow Michigander :thumbsup:
But the question remains, how many of you are or have experience GROWTH using actinics only?
Hoping to hear from you guys/gals on this.
Mooch
But the question remains, how many of you are or have experience GROWTH using actinics only?
Hoping to hear from you guys/gals on this.
Mooch
A. Grandis
Active member
GROWTH?...
Don't think so, MUCHO.
I think they could survive for a while with VHO Blue Plus bulbs, even actinic blues, but not with healthy normal growth for long periods of time. Even if you feed them, once as they say... 90%+ of their energy can come from the Zooxanthellae. They would need some "white" for the metabolism.
IME the more blue, the less growth.
50%50% is good growth and good colors.
The less blue, the more growth.
I always had the actinics with my zoas and I believe that they (zooxanthellae) would need the blue also.
So... 50%50% is a good choice.
Now...
Who told you that?
For how long?
How much growth?
What zoas?
Lets wait and see if anyone comes with good pictures about it.
Just my US$.2
Grandis.
Don't think so, MUCHO.
I think they could survive for a while with VHO Blue Plus bulbs, even actinic blues, but not with healthy normal growth for long periods of time. Even if you feed them, once as they say... 90%+ of their energy can come from the Zooxanthellae. They would need some "white" for the metabolism.
IME the more blue, the less growth.
50%50% is good growth and good colors.
The less blue, the more growth.
I always had the actinics with my zoas and I believe that they (zooxanthellae) would need the blue also.
So... 50%50% is a good choice.
Now...
Who told you that?
For how long?
How much growth?
What zoas?
Lets wait and see if anyone comes with good pictures about it.
Just my US$.2
Grandis.
GROWTH?...
Don't think so, MUCHO.
I think they could survive for a while with VHO Blue Plus bulbs, even actinic blues, but not with healthy normal growth for long periods of time. Even if you feed them, once as they say... 90%+ of their energy can come from the Zooxanthellae. They would need some "white" for the metabolism.
IME the more blue, the less growth.
50%50% is good growth and good colors.
The less blue, the more growth.
I always had the actinics with my zoas and I believe that they (zooxanthellae) would need the blue also.
So... 50%50% is a good choice.
Now...
Who told you that?
Here you go...
See post # 5 of this thread.
See post # 49 in the "Myths & Myth busting" thread. I will try and dig up the others.
For how long? That's what I want to know
How much growth? That's what I'm asking also.
What zoas? Same as above
Lets wait and see if anyone comes with good pictures about it.
LOL, I don't even need pictures, I just want to hear from someone who has experienced growth of any kind over any period of time using actinics only. I don't know if it is true or now, but I am always willing to listen and learn from others. Hope someone who has had this experience can share it.
Just my US$.2
Grandis.
Mucho Reef
A. Grandis
Active member
Thanks MUCHO!
Yeap, lets wait and hear from them.
That would be very interesting.
Grandis.
Yeap, lets wait and hear from them.
That would be very interesting.
Grandis.
MinibowMatt
New member
Mucho You sent me a PM... i tried to reply..
A. Grandis
Active member
Nope.
Funny, I was thinking about this two days ago while making my list for bulb replacement.
I'm not even getting actinics anymore. Choosing ATI Blue Plus instead. More PAR!!!
It would have to work for more than a year at least and the zoas would have to be showing perfect growth, decent reproduction rates, and normal colors...
That's kinda hard to picture, don't you think?
Actinic bulbs have a low PAR and the zoas won't have a very natural response to it.
Normal/good growth depends on good PAR, besides other things.
It is important to say that we are talking about a normal set up, with the regular type of aquariums we have to display the animals. It is also important to know that the depth needs to follow the normal "rules" of what we keep normally.
I would say don't even try it!
We all here like very much to keep zoas.
It's kinda cruel to use actinics for that purpose.:thumbdown
No need for that anyway.
Grandis.
Funny, I was thinking about this two days ago while making my list for bulb replacement.
I'm not even getting actinics anymore. Choosing ATI Blue Plus instead. More PAR!!!
It would have to work for more than a year at least and the zoas would have to be showing perfect growth, decent reproduction rates, and normal colors...
That's kinda hard to picture, don't you think?
Actinic bulbs have a low PAR and the zoas won't have a very natural response to it.
Normal/good growth depends on good PAR, besides other things.
It is important to say that we are talking about a normal set up, with the regular type of aquariums we have to display the animals. It is also important to know that the depth needs to follow the normal "rules" of what we keep normally.
I would say don't even try it!
We all here like very much to keep zoas.
It's kinda cruel to use actinics for that purpose.:thumbdown
No need for that anyway.
Grandis.
PinkDamsel
New member
This guy uses a PAR38 blue only, and his vase is amazing:
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=262704
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=262704
Cptn Spaulding
New member
One cannot simply generalize and say that white light brings more growth and blue light doesn't give any growth, seeing as though corals use both of those wavelengths in their photosynthetic process. I have not seen less growth from more actinic/blue and less white in any of my experiences, however I'm sure a full actinic setup or full 10k setup would have deleterious effects on certain corals. Although personally I have never done an actinic only setup, I know someone who's growth slowed to a halt with full actinic LEDs.
I know someone who put, I believe, 8 full blue par 38's on his 120g tank. Corals did not suffer, but growth slowed significantly. Maybe the fact that it was LEDs and not a fluorescent bulb or a halide had something to do with it, but naturally any blue or actinic light produces less par than any comparatively well made white bulb. I currently run PAR38's (20k) and will be adding a row of 3w LEDs to eliminate the spottiness (both white and blue). With just the PAR38's zoas and palys underneath the light have never looked happier. I recommend some of each spectrum for best overall color and growth of most shallow to mid water corals. Deeper water corals should be a bit more accustomed to a full actinic setup, seeing as though it is the dominant spectrum reaching them in the wild. Those as well as corals that don't use much photosynthesis (i.e. most gorgonians, etc.) would not be effected by it as much or at all. All in all, I suggest having both spectra on your tank. Most corals will appreciate it. You can always have a dawn/dusk cycle for great actinic viewing.
I know someone who put, I believe, 8 full blue par 38's on his 120g tank. Corals did not suffer, but growth slowed significantly. Maybe the fact that it was LEDs and not a fluorescent bulb or a halide had something to do with it, but naturally any blue or actinic light produces less par than any comparatively well made white bulb. I currently run PAR38's (20k) and will be adding a row of 3w LEDs to eliminate the spottiness (both white and blue). With just the PAR38's zoas and palys underneath the light have never looked happier. I recommend some of each spectrum for best overall color and growth of most shallow to mid water corals. Deeper water corals should be a bit more accustomed to a full actinic setup, seeing as though it is the dominant spectrum reaching them in the wild. Those as well as corals that don't use much photosynthesis (i.e. most gorgonians, etc.) would not be effected by it as much or at all. All in all, I suggest having both spectra on your tank. Most corals will appreciate it. You can always have a dawn/dusk cycle for great actinic viewing.
Cptn Spaulding
New member
One cannot simply generalize and say that white light brings more growth and blue light doesn't give any growth, seeing as though corals use both of those wavelengths in their photosynthetic process. I have not seen less growth from more actinic/blue and less white in any of my experiences, however I'm sure a full actinic setup or full 10k setup would have deleterious effects on certain corals. Although personally I have never done an actinic only setup, I know someone who's growth slowed to a halt with full actinic LEDs.
I know someone who put, I believe, 8 full blue par 38's on his 120g tank. Corals did not suffer, but growth slowed significantly. Maybe the fact that it was LEDs and not a fluorescent bulb or a halide had something to do with it, but naturally any blue or actinic light produces less par than any comparatively well made white bulb. I currently run PAR38's (20k) and will be adding a row of 3w LEDs to eliminate the spottiness (both white and blue). With just the PAR38's zoas and palys underneath the light have never looked happier. I recommend some of each spectrum for best overall color and growth of most shallow to mid water corals. Deeper water corals should be a bit more accustomed to a full actinic setup, seeing as though it is the dominant spectrum reaching them in the wild. Those as well as corals that don't use much photosynthesis (i.e. most gorgonians, etc.) would not be effected by it as much or at all. All in all, I suggest having both spectra on your tank. Most corals will appreciate it. You can always have a dawn/dusk cycle for great actinic viewing.
EDIT: sorry for double post. RC has been acting weird lately, has anyone else noticed?
I know someone who put, I believe, 8 full blue par 38's on his 120g tank. Corals did not suffer, but growth slowed significantly. Maybe the fact that it was LEDs and not a fluorescent bulb or a halide had something to do with it, but naturally any blue or actinic light produces less par than any comparatively well made white bulb. I currently run PAR38's (20k) and will be adding a row of 3w LEDs to eliminate the spottiness (both white and blue). With just the PAR38's zoas and palys underneath the light have never looked happier. I recommend some of each spectrum for best overall color and growth of most shallow to mid water corals. Deeper water corals should be a bit more accustomed to a full actinic setup, seeing as though it is the dominant spectrum reaching them in the wild. Those as well as corals that don't use much photosynthesis (i.e. most gorgonians, etc.) would not be effected by it as much or at all. All in all, I suggest having both spectra on your tank. Most corals will appreciate it. You can always have a dawn/dusk cycle for great actinic viewing.
EDIT: sorry for double post. RC has been acting weird lately, has anyone else noticed?
Mnofstl007
In Memoriam
i am running a tank with nothing but blue+ and aquablue and all of my coral is always continually open as well as growing pretty good. IDK if its any faster than my old combo or anything, hard to keep track
A. Grandis
Active member
That is actually a good combo for zoas.:spin1:
This thread is a question about actinic light only to grow zoas.
I would say perhaps actinic03 or pure actinic (?).
One more note: Blue Plus bulbs have some actinic but they are not true actinics. They are really good to be used with other bulbs in a zoa tank.
I guess they could even be acceptable when used alone to grow zoas and some corals. I still like to use a blue/full spectrum balance. That is what gives the best growth, when other params are great IME.
Grandis.
I ran only blue+ and blue special for quite awhile over my tank and grow zoas, lps, and sps. I now run 3 blue+ and one purple + and get great growth from all corals. SPS probably an inch or so a month. From my growth I would have to say these bulbs throw the par necessary for good growth however they are not actinics.
