Quarantine Mandarin

EllieSuz

Premium Member
I'm looking for some advice on quarantining a Mandarin. I brought it home today and put it in the QT with a big hunk of Chaeto from my sump. It's hunting and finding something to eat in there, but I can't expect that to last long. I will try feeding it Nutramar Ova and see if it takes that and just try to observe it for a few days. I've heard that they are not as apt to get parasites because of their slime coat. What would you do? QT or right to the Display?
 
I plan on getting one in 6 or 8 months and will be quarantining it. My plan is to do the tank transfer method that TMZ does. My plan was to buy a bottle of pods and put some in a couple days before the mandarin gets into each tank. Then I'll throw the rock in a bin with no fish for a couple months so it can be reused.

I am taking as little risk as possible when my tank finally goes back up. Fish, corals, snails, and EVERYTHING is going to get quarantined.
 
I agree with Gary on both mandarins and leopard wrasses. Getting them to acclimate and start eating is the first priority. Mandarins have strong a strong immune system and most fish avoid them, so isolating them in a QT isn't as beneficial.
 
right to the display but they do adapt to a qt or tight confinment and you can feed them live brine which they will eat with gusto . the live brine is something that many have forgotten to induce eating in captivity then start mixing ova in slowly removing the live brine . good luck !
 
She's still in QT and seems to be eating Ova. I agree with you all that she should go to the Display with a much shorter quarantine process, but I thought I would just keep an eye on her for a few days first. Thanks for all your replies. Dave, how does one go about hatching live brine if I should decide to go that route?
 
its easy all you need is a 2 litre bottle some hose ,air pump and an airstone . then you get the eggs and follow the instructions . there is also a mount that you can purchase for the 2 litre bottle and it costs less than $5 they take 24 to 36 hours to hatch . i have someone here that sells me live adult brine for cheap ,cheap . im 99% sure that pet world on rt 104 sells them near you as i used to get them there too .they also probably sell the hatchery kit but its easier to just purchase them cause they are cheap .
 
I just use an old 2 liter bottle. I have cut holes in a 1/4" piece of plywood to hold 6 inverted 2 liter bottles. I'll try to get a picture of it if you want. I need like 3 or 4 when I am hatching brine shrimp for my clownfish fry.

I decapsulate my brine shrimp. The cysts have a hard outer shell that can be dissolved, but doesn't have to be. Here's how I do it...
1. Dump however many cysts you want into an old soda or water bottle (16 or 20 oz)
2. Rehydrate the brine shrimp cysts. The cyst looks like a deflated basketball because they are so dried out. Fill the container 1/3 or 1/2 full of water (I use RO/DI, but that probably isn't necessary) and soak them for about 60 or 90 minutes. Shake the bottle around every 5 or 10 minutes because the cysts tend to stick to the side of the bottle. This will return them to their normal sphere form.
3. Fill the bottle another 1/3rd full (so add 5ish oz) of regular, unscented bleach. It's usually the cheapest you can find at the store. The bleach will dissolve the outer shell of the cyst. This won't hurt the embryo inside.
4. Shake the bottle a little to make sure the cysts get soaked in the bleach water well. The cysts will turn from brownish black to grey, to a nice orange color. Once they are orange, the shell is dissolved. Depending on how much you add and how strong your bleach is, this can take anywhere from 1-5 minutes.
5. The newly decapsulated cysts need to be rinsed free from the bleach. If you don't do this, it will kill them as they hatch. So, use a coffee filter or any other sieve you can think of to wash them. If you are really patient, you could probably just decant the water after the eggs settle a few times. Decapsulated cysts sink fairly fast. I have found that a 53 micron rotifer sieve works perfectly to rinse the cysts.
6. Keep rinsing the eggs until you can't smell any more bleach on them. You can add some chemical to get rid of the bleach if you want (sodium Thiosulfate?).
7. Add the eggs to your inverted 2 liter bottle and put in the airline. In 24-36 hours, you'll have baby brine shrimp swimming everywhere.
 
QT for all fish is prudent. Even mandarins and other dragonets ( Synchiropus) get ich and can carry it into the display even if you don't see it.
The med free tank transfer method leaves any ich behind takes 12 days and feeding with cyclopeeze, live pods is very doable. Acclimation is easier too. No drip; acclimate the tank to the fish and then adjust the water to match the display over the 12 days. A disposable bowl of sand works well for a leopard and is a necessity..
Feeding responses and routines are easily observable in qt without the high level competition in the display.
 
12 days isnt a big deal . Most mandrins slowly starve over months \ years. A glass jar with dirty tank water works in a pinch, gentle aefation helps
 
I preventatively qt'd and treated a pair of wild caught mandarins ( Synchiropus picturatus )via the transfer method a few months ago. I fed them while in the transfer tanks and they picked up on frozen bits of mysis brine and bloodworm along with cyclopeeze in the non competitive foraging environment of their own tank. I was prepared to go newly hatched atremia naupli or live pods but didn't have to. They were very small fish . They are thriving in a system now and are much larger and nice and are fat and appear happy..
 
My wild caught was trained to eat live brine in a seahorse tank. I qt'd but wasn t aware of the tank transfer method at the time. Cool fish, it lasted about 2 yrs? In a 28g. I wont do another until i have the right system. Pods are prone to crashing quite easily. Mine ate anything. One week it just stopped eating.
 
I got lucky with a male and female . They are fun to watch as they skip along together.

I have lot's of pods but they go after brine /mysis/ bllodworms and cyclopeeze. Wish they'd take more flatworms. They compete well now with tankmates in a 60 g frag tank : two clowns, bangai cardinal and sixline wrasse.
 

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