quarantine tank really necessary?

also, since this is my first fish, can i put them in the DT after tank transfers? and if they end up with amyloodinium or brooklynella just treat them in the DT? or are those diseases an insane 12 week process getting it out of the DT, just like ich?

Chances are these problems would be observed during the tank trasfer process but there is risk and the mdedications are not reef comapatable. Do you feel lucky?
 
Aside from questions about reef compatibility of medications or other treatments, there are other, more practical reasons to treat in the quarantine tank. Virtually all medications are dosed per gallon. If you have a larger display tank, it's a whole lot cheaper to dose a 30 gallon quarantine tank than a 120 gallon display tank. If you accidentally overdose or wish to remove treatments, the smaller volume makes that easier as well. Also, Since most quarantine tanks are more sparsely furnished, observation of the treated fish is easier.
 
Also, it is difficult to maintain therapeutic levels of some medications in a tank with aragonite substrate and ,or rock as some of them will be adsorbed on those surfaces.
 
You all have talked me into using one of the umpteen extra tanks I have to set up a qt tank. I'm headed to buy a cheap HOB filter now and a bottle of stability. Thanks for such good info
 
You are welcome,

There is a lot more info on the fish disease forum for those who wan't more.

Good luck.
 
You are welcome,

There is a lot more info on the fish disease forum for those who wan't more.

Good luck.
Is there any specific place to get bottled ammonia (for cycling) and copper treatment for parasites and disease as far as brand wise?
 
thanks, so im curious, why not just look for ich in a normal QT and then treat if it comes out?

also, since this is my first fish, can i put them in the DT after tank transfers? and if they end up with amyloodinium or brooklynella just treat them in the DT? or are those diseases an insane 12 week process getting it out of the DT, just like ich?

TTM has it virtues and should not be disregarded completely.

It can eradicate ich without drug.

I would not use it as the primary method because of the stress on me and many fish. Some fish will not eat well during TTM and some are vulnerable to bacterial infection without UV running. Many people do TTM without regard to ammonia. Prime or Amquel can be used unless something unexpected happens. Also, using a portion of cycled medium once for each transfer will solve ammonia problem without drugs or chemicals.

My QT procedure is leisurely and successful enough so I will not do TTM routinely.

I accept that TTM is a viable option in some situations: very good eaters and those tough against bacterial infection.

Do not allow fish to suffer by eating little for another 12-14 days of TTM right after capture and transport.

Ich is mostly a dead horse issue and besides ich there are some many diseases, and the aspect of adaptation during QT. TTM interferes with adaptation seriously so I don't like TTM as the primary means of eradication of ich.
 
If i buy a fish from a reputable local store and they have had it for more than 4 weeks, do i still need a quarantine tank?

Yes.

Uronema Marine and last up to 13 weeks and is very common on small fish like Chromis. Once in your tank, you are basically screwed to high heaven.
 
I would not use it as the primary method because of the stress on me and many fish. Some fish will not eat well during TTM and some are vulnerable to bacterial infection without UV running. Many people do TTM without regard to ammonia. Prime or Amquel can be used unless something unexpected happens. Also, using a portion of cycled medium once for each transfer will solve ammonia problem without drugs or chemicals.

My QT procedure is leisurely and successful enough so I will not do TTM routinely.

I accept that TTM is a viable option in some situations: very good eaters and those tough against bacterial infection.

Do not allow fish to suffer by eating little for another 12-14 days of TTM right after capture and transport.

Ich is mostly a dead horse issue and besides ich there are some many diseases, and the aspect of adaptation during QT. TTM interferes with adaptation seriously so I don't like TTM as the primary means of eradication of ich.

Your opinion and you are entitled to it .

However, the opinions you present as facts about the tank transfer method show an unfamiliarity with it.
It does not increase stress or reduce feeding response .
Ammonia is a non issue with a 100% water change every 72 hours even with reasonable feeding and fish load; a little detoxifier(Ammo Lock/ sodium thiosulfate penthydrate)_ insures against ammonia's more toxic form but isn't usually necessary IME . I do check the ammonia. The detoxifier when dosed per instructions does not adversely effect fish in anyway but should not be used with other medications Sometimes I use cylced media when it's available to insure against the outside chance of a rise in ammonia .
Also, there is still plenty of ich in the trade and a prevetative treatment for it is prudent IMO. I wish it was a dead horse but it's not.
Not to mention the acclimation advantages in sg and the avoidance of ammonia toxicity during acclimation, this method affords.
Tank transfer followed by a longer period of quaratine in a cycled tank is my preference and recommendation.
Folks can go in a number of directions with qt and they are all useful. I disagree that your particualr method is best for everyone though it might be waht you prefer.

A new tank with new water won't infect fish with bactial infections . If the fish has a bacterial infection ,it's usually on the skin. The fish can be removed and treated or treated in the transfer tank,suspending the change schedule or just maintaining the therapuetic level of medication throughout the changes.
 
I ,personally, don't unless flukes or intestinal problems become evident. Some do use prazi from the start but I prefer to go through the transfer process med free.

Good luck.
 
I just went through my first tank transfer method with a pair of clowns. While I was a bit nervous since it was my first time, it's a no brainier. You get to keep the SG lower, which makes it easier on the fish. They eat without competiton, and you are ridding a potential disease without medication.
 
Sorry this has basically been answered already but ya u basically need a QT tank. My fish were having so many problems and my tank had so many diseases and then I started QTing my new fish and "poof" it was all better. It not only gives the new fish a better chance of survival, but greatly reduces the risk of infecting your entire tank with it. Once the fish goes into the tank, you have to treat the whole tank and all of its inhabitants (and trust me, you do NOT want to go through that). Hope I helped!
 
The link in post 27 gives some helpful detail on tank transfer:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23198303&postcount=27

It's easy to do and very effective for ich. The 12 days used in the transfer period can be used to set up and seed a qt for addtional observation for other maladies that may appear.The tank transfer method can also be combined with acclimation avoiding the need for drip acclimation and potential esposure to ammonia toxicity in the bag water.

I got the fish last night they went in the tank around 9 PM (wed night). i know the morning is best time to switch them to the new tank. should i wait 59 Hours, (Saturday morning) or 83 hours (sunday morning) before i switch them to tank #2.

can i use the same net for both tanks as long as I let it dry for 24 hours?
 
"However, the opinions you present as facts about the tank transfer method show an unfamiliarity with it.
It does not increase stress or reduce feeding response ."

Yes I am familar with TTM as it has been around for over 40 years. TTM is nothing new.
It has always had the disadvantage of interfering with feeding for many fish. Many fish will not eat well for 48 hours or longer after being handled. Not all fish are gobies.

"Ammonia is a non issue with a 100% water change every 72 hours even with reasonable feeding and fish load; a little detoxifier(Ammo Lock/ sodium thiosulfate penthydrate)_ insures against ammonia's more toxic form but isn't usually necessary IME . I do check the ammonia. The detoxifier when dosed per instructions does not adversely effect fish in anyway but should not be used with other medications"

Why are you so interested in WC? Why is 0.25 ppm ammonia exposure for two weeks a good thing? Why do you like chemicals? Are you very sure about drug interacts with Prime or Amquel? Why is not more options to use drugs better?

And, why do you want to do so much work at all? Just one advantage of using no drug. I do very little as I leisurely wait.

I seldom need to do any WC at all during the whole 12 weeks or longer of QT.

Moreover, the skill in TT does not allow one to combat ich infestation in a DT. Say if one knows only TT, one would likely be unable to combat ammonia in QT where one has to support all fish for 12 or more weeks for DT to fallow.

Ich is only one of many diseases; that it is the most dreaded among newbies does not alter this fact.

I don't think about ich or velvet because these are very curable; I worry about external bacterial infection, internal fungus, bacteria and higher order parasites far more. Rushing to cure ich is like dashing toward a red light.

The promotion of adaptation is also a large part of QT; and this takes time as well.
 
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That is a ridiculous post. Riddled with misrepresentation, uniformed opinon ,unjustifiable arrogance,intolerance for opinions other than your own and a nasty attitude. I really wonder if you can read or just like making stuff up since you obviously haven't read what I actually said. I don't have time for any more supercillious blather .So I'm going to give the rest of your posts the attention they deserve ,ie, none. If you don't know what supercillious blather means just read the first letter of each word in reverse.
 
This post of mine from another thread regarding ammonia toxicity and sodium thiosulfate penthydrate detoxification may be of general interest:

For general informationThis link provided by API ,the manufacturer provides some information on tests by the University of Georgia on ammonia toxicity and the benign effects of a AMMO- LOCK ( a sodium thiosulfate penthhydrate ) detoxifier; I keep it on hand in case of spiky ammonia but rarely have to use it. It's simple and does not contain slime coat stuff or other unidentified ingredients per the product mds at least:

http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/Ammo_...udy_8.1.08.pdf
 
I went a long time without QT... then I got Montipora nudibranchs from a free coral frag... they were manageable and eventually eradicated but what a PIA. QT is much less stress and expense.
 
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