Re: Nitra-Guard Bio-cubes from Orca Labs promises denitrification free of Redfield's

I just started using this product on my 300 gallon about a week ago. I am using them in the bomb method. My nitrates are 40 and phosphates around 1.5-2. I am using 3000ml in two of the supplied mess bags.


For those ^ using this product, how is it working out for you?
 
just started using these cubes on 1-30-13 no3-4ppt po4-.22 never been lower have been in this range for a year . will test and do 15gal
water change when i wake up. will post again when done.trying to get them lower very heavy bio load. hope they do what they claim!
 
Well for this stuff is working very slowly and has been a bit frustrating to use. First off this is the only really change I did on my tank. Since using this product my tank has become over run with this brown hair algea stuff all over the rocks. I have never had this before. I am still using this stuff, as this just might be part of the course for me with having my nitrates and phospates so high but its been over a month and the algea has not gone away. I also found trying to use the bomb method a real pita. Due to having flow in my sump, the bags would move and the air stone would just make its way to the top of the bag making it useless. I have done some reworking this past week to help fix that by putting the air stones under the bags and traping them in a corner of my sump with egg crate. I am not give up on these yet. Any ideas about the brown type of hair algea. Its not super long and its not green and it has covered all the rocks.
 
Hey bobbychanna, what are your levels? I am thinking that maybe due to myself having phosphates and 1-1.5 that I need to add some gfo to aid these biocubes. I am attempting a couple of days of lights out and then will see. If I still have an issue then I will use gfo.
 
I have been using these for 3 weeks and they seem to be working.

Tank is a 120gal with 108 total volume of water.

Nitrates were at 10ppm and have now been reduced to 2ppm. I was a bit surprised to so I tested it 3 times in a row. Tests were done with salifert.

I run 750ml bombed. I had a montipora setosa that was stn'ing and that has stopped.
 
So a little update. Since starting these I started to get the brown type of hair algea and it got to the point of completely covering all my rock. My phos and nitrates did go down a little but then would go up a little and down a little. I also had a hard time with using the bomb method as with the current in my sump the bags would float around and the air stone would make its way to the top of the bag. I know at least one other person on the US main site also mentioned having this issue even with low level of nitrate and phosphates.
I am not giving up on these yet as biopellets have been very successful.
So I have take the air stones out and but them under the bags and sectioned off a coner of my sump for them.
I did two days of no lights to kill off most of the algea which is has done great but I will not go full three days with have manderines. I might do another round of couple of days off in a week to try and completely get rid of the last of it.
I have also started to put back in GFO to get the phospates down as I have read other products stating that exact thing to do before using thier media you need very low phosphates. Also read a few threads now that even people using other bio pellets and carbon dosing have found its great for nitrates but doesn't do much for phosphates and having to put back in GFO. Lucking GFO is easy to regenerate.
 
Well For me nitrates have no moved, my phosphates got down by gfo and even after a couple of weeks no reduction in nitrates.
No though through some more digging about about these cubes, I found something very confusing.
Now from most of the reading it the preferred method is to use the bomb method as O2 is needed. Now is it O2 or just a good flow to removed the film?
What I found confusing is that now on their own web site and the polylabs distributor its stats this:

"For best results, use Nitra-Guard BIO-Cubes in a denitrator reactor and commission the denitrator as specified by the manufacturer."

Source:
http://www.orcalabs.co.za/?page_id=33
http://www.polyplab.ca/ocra-laborat...guard-bio-cubes-v4-330lts-1-000lts-1000ml.php

Now I am sorry I may be wrong but my understand of a denitrator is a very low oxygen environment, and a recirculating reactor with a slow output. What is everyone's thoughts?
 
I started using the cubes from today,panning to use 1 ML since po4 and no3 is low but being a noob in this how do you calculate it if its 1ml or 2ml.Now I just added 3-5 cubes and assumed its 1ml.
 
So to help clear up the confusion a little I heard from the company, what I found was verison 1 which is no longer was to be used in a deinitrator where the current verison 4 is best used in high oxygen ie bomb method.
 
Yes bomb method is the easiest method just an airstone and pump and you are all set.
But I am confused about how calculate 1ml if these are cubes.
 
Yes bomb method is the easiest method just an airstone and pump and you are all set.
But I am confused about how calculate 1ml if these are cubes.
1 cubic centimeter is equivalent to 1 milliliter. Therefore, if the cubes measure 1cm x 1cm x 1cm, then you are using 1mL of the product.
 
Well for me they never worked. I never saw a reduction in nitrates or phospated, about a month ago I ask for help from the supplier and he contacted the company. From my gather these are not as easy to use as advertised. This was there response:

He mentioned 2 things...Firstly, he has a biomass build up that looked like hair algae! Secondly, the airstone would not stay at the bottom of the bag. Now, that airstone is very important. Firstly, it acts as a gentle oxygen scrubber. I found that bacteria and yeast grow at their fastest from young to "teenage" stages. Thereafter, the growth rate of the cells slows down massively. We do not want this! The oxygen that flows through the cubes is strong enough to pull the larger and heavier adult cells off and keep the colony "young" and growing at a massive rate. However, the oxygen is gentle enough that it does not abrade the cubes like NP Pellets in a reactor do and that is why the cubes are so much more economical and longer lasting than NP pellets. The cubes only erode from bacterial / yeast actions while NP relies on micro-abrasion in the reactor to do this. Now, when that airstone starts moving upwards, we are removing that mechanism that selectively brings more nutrient rich water into the cubes colony and removes the older, heavier, less productive cells which end up in the skimmer. Eventually, the airstone reaches the top and then the bottom is seeing virtually no nutrient rich water to keep feeding it and they have selectively cut productivity because they have all become adult cells...retired senior citizens if you wish. OK...but how do I know that the cubes did work...simple...the "brown Hair Algae" that is the smoking gun in this investigation. The cubes did work, but, some of it's specially designed "powers" were taken away from it, reducing productivity and performance. Lower nutrients caused the lower parts of the bags colony to die back in response as they could no longer support such a large colony without "food" in the form of NO3 and PO4 in the water. So...when we look mathematically, yes, he did buy the right quantity to solve his problem, but, he is effectively using far less than what is required to sort his problem out. He needs to tie those bags TIGHT...that airstone MUST stay right at the bottom.

So since then I have done as requested and even put a long air stone right under then to ensure getting the air contact on all the stones. I also up to 4000ml in 4 bags with an air stone in each. Now at almost a month after this response, I tested again just last night and still saw no reduction with nitrates at 50-40 and phosphates at 2.0.

At this point I am leaving them in since I have them but I just bought a bio pellet reactor and am going to be setting up bio pellets as I fell they will be easier to use than this product. I would have been happy to see even some reduction but nothing in my case.
 
There is some information out there on yeast in marine environments. Here are a few links and quotes to get you started on asessing whether it's doing anything in a reef aquarium and what and how it might be doing it.


http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18615863

from it:
"...Yeasts are ubiquitous in their distribution and populations mainly depend on the type and concentration of organic materials..."


Near-shore environments are usually inhabited by tens to thousands of cells per litre of water, whereas low organic surface to deep-sea oceanic regions contain 10 or fewer cells/litre. Aerobic forms are found more in clean waters and fermentative forms in polluted waters. Yeasts are more abundant in silty muds than in sandy sediments.

Sounds to me like most of them are heterotrophic, ie need organic carbon contrary to the manufactures comments

Others:

http://rspb.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/274/1629/3069.full


http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/1920818/1454270099/name/fulltext.pdf

The link above goes into probiotic applications of yeast in mariculture(fish farming). This ifrom it is concerning:

...In recent years, it has been well documented that
some marine yeasts are pathogenic to some marine animals.
Like bacterial and virus disease, the yeast disease
has caused big economic losses in maricultural industry
in some regions of China (Xu, 2005; Xu and
Xu, 2003)...

There are also a number of articles about yeast infection in humans associated with swimming in parts of the ocean.


Many yeasts are used in fermentation ,ie conversion of organic carbons to ethanol(as in vodka) btw.

All in all, I think the presentation by the manufacture is nonsensical and does not make a case for the product in tems of how it will do what is claimed.,whether it is safe to use or even what it is. Titanium, cyber cells, artifical intelligence all seems to fit on the SciFi channel.

I suspect it's just another polymer carbon source that feeds facultative heterotrophic bacteria and have no idea whether the specific yeasts in it if any make a positive or negative difference , how the specific fungi lives or if it's safe.
Personally , I prefer soluble organics,vodka and vinegar for a number of reasons including the avoidance of fermentation activities and monomer production. Maybe something will come of further studies on yeast but I really don't think this is it and don't intend to use this product.

^^^^^
What he said.
 
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