Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

I used as much force as possible without risking to break the PCB apart and had no luck.

I even wishfully used CA debounder to weaken the glue, but they must have used epoxy.

The seller's name is "powerlink999" on eBay if anyone wants to avoid. It's the fixture with the Blues and 4 UVs on channel one.
 
Sorry to butt-inn, I got this Evergrow D2120 with 90deg optics, and wondering if this layout will be good enough for an SPS dominated tank?

Evergrow_zpsec9d03e7.png


Should I change the Cool Whites to Neutral whites?

Thanks for your input.
 
markois said:
Hello, i have a 48x24x24 tank and i was wondering if a photon 32" was enough to light all the tank. Do i need 120° optics or are the 90° optics ok?
I know the 48" version exists but i think too much light will be 'out' of the tank due to the fact that both tank and photon have exactly the same size.
Click to expand...


I have the 48 over my 75 48x18 and it's perfect no light spillage due to the optics
 
Ok. I got some of the it2080 last year. Recently some of the units are losing brightness on the blue only channels one unit lost all LEDs not starting up. Almost like on 10 or 20 percent when set to 100 percent. Thoughts.
 
Its hard to believe that all blue LEDS would fail at the same time. My thpugjts ate focusing on the blue channel contfoller. Pehaps you can test the voltage at one of the failed LEDS and compare it with the same reading/level of a working lamp. If the voltage is low, it's likely the source ( controll), if the voltage is normal then it is likely the lamp.
 
I had one unit where that string.. as I call it.. failed completely. I notice last week that on my other 4 units... the same string of leds are not bright. It is the same Leds on all the same units.. I have 6 of these units. Ones is still running perfectly with all bright at 100 percent dialed in. So I am thinking driver fail or? thoughts
 
Hmmmm.....not having schematic for your unit, I took my best shot. Is there an individual driver for each blue LED or is there a single driver for each color string? One for the reds, whites, blues etc? The drivers are the switches, but ultimately the intensity and timing is determined by a control circuit of some sort. If whole strings of similar color fail especially at the same time, to my way of looking at it it's not likely to be the LEDS. I have heard of LEDS failing in units continually run at 100% but they usually wink out one at a time. If you feel comfortable working on circuits keeping in mind that there is 120VAC present, try comparing the source voltage in a good color circuit to a bad one. At some point you will see a noticable difference. If you aren' t comfortable perhaps the best way to go is to contact the manufacturer. They are your best resource. Either way SAFETY should be your prime concern.
 
Yep three drivers. One for channel 1 all blues . Channel 2 is mix of blues and whites red and green. Channel 3 driver 3. Is three blue moon lights.
 
Evergrow suggest i change up drivers in unit to see if it is a driver. Is it pretty easy to swap out the drivers ?
 
So after reading this thread, I have learned alot about the RB. I currently have two 32" Photons with whatever the stock optics are over my 48(l)x36(w)x14(h) frag tank that has a Screen Cover. The lights are hung about 18"-20" from the top of the water.

Some zoas on the bottom egg crate are looking as if they are getting burnt. The skirts are shriveled and almost non-existent. I run the blues at max 60% and whites 2% at the height of the day.

Couple Questions:
1. Should I strip all optics and go 120 degree since I have such a shallow and large tank?
2. Should I lower the lights?
3. Should I remove all the red or some of the UV? (Im not a fan of the pink/purple look, and feel my other systems have done well without UV)
4. Any other recommendations?
 
Awhedbee22.... I am running a Photon24 on a 30" tank, suspended ten inches above the water. I ordered the 120 deg. optics. At.my peak photo period of four hours I run 25% blue and 21% white. If you are concerned about too much light, drop the output level (pethaps half of your output level) for a few days. It won't hurt the zoas. If they open up more then you can slowly bring the level back until they cringe from too much light. I have bleached corals with my light. It is easier than you think with these lights.
 
I honestly don't think you are giving your corals enough light and thats why they are shriveling. I keep my LEDs about 10 inches above the water and I run significantly higher levels. 75% blues and 50% whites and still working them up to higher intensity. I think there was this big scare that LED would burn your corals that people are running them too low. Try slowly working the intensity up over a few weeks and see if there is improvement.
 
My corals are doing great at the levels I am using. I can understand hih levels for SPS, clams etc. Most zoas don't need bright light. Anyway wavelengths aside, there is a "band" of PAR level acceptability which shows itself in all photosynthetic coral. Corals..zoas included will expand more under low light levels. This is a simple attempt to have more light collecting area. If the light remains too low for too long they will likely lose their coloration. If the PAR is too high, coral will tend to turn brown in an attempt to shield their zooxanthelic bacteria. Ultimatley they will expel them due to over production of oxygen and sugars. There is a definite light window in which the corals thrive per species and depth in the ocean. Lowering the lights a bit for a few days will show whether present light levels are too high.
 
I keep seeing the question, but haven't seen the answer yet. I have an IT2081, and I understand that you can detach the built-in controller and hook it to an Apex. Has anyone done this? If so, how? Thanks!

Dave
 
mpierce said:
I honestly don't think you are giving your corals enough light and thats why they are shriveling. I keep my LEDs about 10 inches above the water and I run significantly higher levels. 75% blues and 50% whites and still working them up to higher intensity. I think there was this big scare that LED would burn your corals that people are running them too low. Try slowly working the intensity up over a few weeks and see if there is improvement.
Click to expand...

Mpierce........ kind of a belated response, but I meant to ask you what type of light fixtures you are using? My Reefbreeders Photon 24 is also 10 in. above the water, but I havent gone above 27/21% on my 29 gal. tank. Whadya think?
 
reviving

reviving

I'm going to revive this thread-
I've seen a couple people ask about connecting multiple units together-

Is the new D120 (with Wifi) basically the same as the IT2040 but without a touch interface?
I saw a "data link kit" to connect multiple IT2040s together to get around sync issues with times, etc.

I am wondering if one IT2040 could have two D120W Slaves? It would seem possible if the internals are wired the same way-

Has anyone connected multiple to one controller on this thread?
 
FishhyRen said:
I'm going to revive this thread-
I've seen a couple people ask about connecting multiple units together-

Is the new D120 (with Wifi) basically the same as the IT2040 but without a touch interface?
I saw a "data link kit" to connect multiple IT2040s together to get around sync issues with times, etc.

I am wondering if one IT2040 could have two D120W Slaves? It would seem possible if the internals are wired the same way-

Has anyone connected multiple to one controller on this thread?
Click to expand...

I purchased the link kit that ReefBreeders sells. I ended up returning it because the final installation looks very sloppy. It would work well for an in-cabinet setup though.
 
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