Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

Hello, i have a 48x24x24 tank and i was wondering if a photon 32" was enough to light all the tank. Do i need 120° optics or are the 90° optics ok?
I know the 48" version exists but i think too much light will be 'out' of the tank due to the fact that both tank and photon have exactly the same size.

You can get away with a 32".. But think of it this way..

Using a 32" fixture on a 48" long tank, you're going to have to hang it fairly high to get the spread and not have any dark corners. Therefore, you'll have a lot of light-spill (lighting that makes it to your room and not your tank).

Using a 48" fixture (or 2 24" fixtures like me) on a 48" tank, you'll be able to hang the light lower, thus reducing light-spill.

I on the other hand made a stupid simple, light weight, slip on/off canopy that I remove whenever I need to get in the tank as it covers all of my light spill into my room.

I'd say go 48". You'll always have plenty of light and you'll have less light spill.
 
What would be a good height from the water with the 48" ?
I guess the 90° optics are enough with the 48" for my tank or do I need the 120° ones ?

Can you show me your canopy Hentz ? Any details on how you made to remove it easily ?
 
I would suggest two 16" LEDs especially if your tank is a mixed reef tank. Use 90 degree optics except for non-blue, night lights and the peripheral LEDs. I would use 120 optics for those. Hen you hang the lights, center them so that you are hanging them over a 44" tank since you won't have corals on the outer 2" of the sides of the aquarium. I believe that Reefbreeders standard fixtures are made with that configuration. You can check with them.
 
Just to chime in here on reefbreeders. I have 2-24" with 90 degree lens over my 90 hanging 6" off the water line. Where my tank is, its in the wall under stairs which limits the height of my lights. So far I have had no issues with the lights and have been impressed as this is my second set after having an original Evergrow D120 on a 40b.

My question is about intensity and height affecting my coral. I have a frag of a green monti cap about half-way down in the tank on a rock ledge. My original light settings were at peak 45 blue and 35 white for an hour with a 2 hour ramp up and 1.5 ramp down. Total hours of daylight amount to 6 with 2 before and after for a total of light on 10 hours. Moonlights run about 2 hours at night then the tank is pitch black till morning. My monti cap was nice and green at first but after a week it started to bleach. I cut back on the intensity but it really didn't help. I continued to cut back the intensity to now having the settings at a max of 25 for blue and 12 for the whites. I like the more blue tank, but the monti still is bleaching, maybe not as fast but its not recovering.

Tested waters with correct water parameters, do regular water changes, etc...everything else grows great and even with the lower settings I noticed my acans puffed up more. I moved the monti to the bottom of the tank as a last ditch effort. The frag came from the LFS that had a Reefbreeder light on it so I cannot figure out why it would bleach fast in my tank. I understand my light is much closer and stronger but after adjustments I thought I would see some improvement. It has been 3 weeks since I bought the frag and no change other than slowly getting whiter.

I know these lights can grow SPS and LPS when dialed in, but for someone who had them since they hit the hobby, I am still baffled that I cannot seem to get SPS to survive...Any suggestions?
 
Update..I moved the monti cap and did a WC...seems to be brown now (not algae) so I am guessing by dialing back the lights the monti is still alive and slowly coming back....Again...these lights are great but powerful...
 
Ok so this thread is crazy long so I'm just gonna ask. Can you use some type of controller on the value fixtures to ramp them up and down? If so can someone point me in the right direction? I have a typhon controller will that work somehow?
 
Can someone post there tank before and after a year showing growth of corals. And also how well there Par levels have done after a year, thanks in advance
 
I'm looking to purchase three of the 16" for my tank(60x24x30). Would this be sufficient if I want to keep sps and lps. Any diagrams or pics of custom setups would be appreciated!
 
I'm looking to purchase three of the 16" for my tank(60x24x30). Would this be sufficient if I want to keep sps and lps. Any diagrams or pics of custom setups would be appreciated!

Hi, my tank is 30 in. an. covered by a Photon 24 suspended ten inches above the water. I also have the 120 deg. optics. The light allows no dark cormers with that setup. Of course the 120 Watt output is an easy match IMO for a 250W MH. I have been growimg LPS, Goniopora, Duncans, Sinularia, GSP, Palys and Zoos with good growth and color since early Jan. My lighting schedule is a sun tracking twelve hour algorithm peaking at 23% blue and. 7% white. If I temember correctly the Photon16 puts out about 60W, so three of them would yield 180W. where two Photon 24 units would yield 240W. If raw power is a consideration then it migjt be an easy choice. These lights are crazy bright and I can say I haven't even heard of anyone running much above half power without bleaching corals including myself. For my money the dispersion 120 deg. optics was the better choice and the astonishing available power wasn't an issue. No PAR meter here, but I can say that with the ouput kicked up to 100% I can't look directly at the sandbed for more than a few seconds without looking away.......like I said....crazy bright. Hope that helps.
 
Hi, my tank is 30 in. an. covered by a Photon 24 suspended ten inches above the water. I also have the 120 deg. optics. The light allows no dark cormers with that setup. Of course the 120 Watt output is an easy match IMO for a 250W MH. I have been growimg LPS, Goniopora, Duncans, Sinularia, GSP, Palys and Zoos with good growth and color since early Jan. My lighting schedule is a sun tracking twelve hour algorithm peaking at 23% blue and. 7% white. If I temember correctly the Photon16 puts out about 60W, so three of them would yield 180W. where two Photon 24 units would yield 240W. If raw power is a consideration then it migjt be an easy choice. These lights are crazy bright and I can say I haven't even heard of anyone running much above half power without bleaching corals including myself. For my money the dispersion 120 deg. optics was the better choice and the astonishing available power wasn't an issue. No PAR meter here, but I can say that with the ouput kicked up to 100% I can't look directly at the sandbed for more than a few seconds without looking away.......like I said....crazy bright. Hope that helps.
According to the website the 16" actually has a yield of 115w vs the 110w of the 24" not sure if that's a typo or not, but it actually says that it has 55leds where the 24" has 51. Since you have the 24" are these specs correct or a mistake on the website?
 
Thank you for the info on the Photon 16. I stand corrected. It occured to me back when I was deciding between a Maxtor unit equivalent of the Photon16 has a 60W. output and the next larger has a 160W. output. I guess I transposed those numbers when thinking about the RB units. My intentions wrte good anyway.
 
I have an Aquamana d120 and it has the following layout:

- Dimmer One (28 LEDs): 8x Cool White (12,000k), 6x Neutral White (7500k), 6x Warm White (3500k), 2x Red (660nm), 2x Green (520nm), 4x Violet (420nm)
- Dimmer Two (27 LEDs): 7x Royal Blue (450nm), 20x Blue (460nm)

I like the color, but I have to run it at blues - 100% whites - 25% or the whites WAY overpower the blue. This seems to be a horrible waste of available light. Can anyone suggest which LEDs I can swap out from Dimmer One and what to change them into to get better usable light out of that channel?
 
I got one of these fixtures from eBay and it turns out the LEDs are permanently glued to the PCB.

Didn't see this coming! :uhoh3:
 

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