Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club
- Thread starter wizsmaster
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wizsmaster
Moved On
I *believe* Jeremy from Premium Aquatics handles the support.
Premium Aquatics
6050 E. Hanna Ave #4 - Indianapolis, IN 46203
317-895-9005 (Voice)
317-895-9395 (24 Hour FAX)
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/
Premium Aquatics
6050 E. Hanna Ave #4 - Indianapolis, IN 46203
317-895-9005 (Voice)
317-895-9395 (24 Hour FAX)
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/
benf
Premium Member
Two things! One i want to get another union where the water inlet connects to the skimmer( i need the outer ring and inner piece that holds the fitting), but i dont know the size, is it metric?
Second i am having a flow issue. Here is a pic i took of the piping coming from the inside to the outside where my chiller, refuge, and skimmer are located. Looking at the pick do u think it possible that water is flowing back into my drain line into the skimmer? Reason i ask is with all skimmer pumps off i am getting water entering the skimmer chamber, but if i turn the OPEN/ClOSE pipe to Close it stops and actually drops the level again. Just wanted opinions before i redo the plumbing again...I hate PVC!
thanks
Ben
Second i am having a flow issue. Here is a pic i took of the piping coming from the inside to the outside where my chiller, refuge, and skimmer are located. Looking at the pick do u think it possible that water is flowing back into my drain line into the skimmer? Reason i ask is with all skimmer pumps off i am getting water entering the skimmer chamber, but if i turn the OPEN/ClOSE pipe to Close it stops and actually drops the level again. Just wanted opinions before i redo the plumbing again...I hate PVC!
thanks
Ben
RokleM
Premium Member
Not seeing the rest of your setup benf, I think it would be beneficial to have your skimmer on it's own dedicated output pipe if it's feasible. Do you know the flow through the other two lines and/or how close to capacity those pipes are? Your other option (assuming there is plenty of capacity left in the fuge/skimmer/chiller pipe) is to install the skimmer higher, with a greater downward angle before it hits the joint output pipe. With that, I think it would be less likely that water would back-flow into the skimmer. Right now it looks like it's potentially a straight shot from the T into your skimmer.
Hopefully that made sense.
Hopefully that made sense.
Hello all,
I am considering an upgrade to this skimmer, and I have a couple of more general skimmer questions if you don't mind. My current skimmer is an ASM G3 with a recirc mod on a 180G + about 40-50 gallons sump and fuge. I currently am lightly stocked with the following: 1 hippo tang, 2 o. clowns, 1 flame angel, 2 small chromis, 1 bicolor blenny. I do typically feed everyday (small amount). I don't seem to get hardly ANY skimmate, unless I practically close the outlet and it overflows. I can go weeks without dumping the cup. If I adjust it to the point where bubbles are right at the top of the cup, then it surges enough to cause the overflow.
Long-winded buildup to the questions, but here goes:
1) Do you think I should be getting more skimmate than I am? If not, that influences how soon I may upgrade, although I do plan to add more fish. I do have an algae problem (mostly hair algae)
2) Having never had a skimmer that sat outside the sump, how does one go about setting things up to reduce floods if the skimmer decides to go nuts and overflow?
I am considering an upgrade to this skimmer, and I have a couple of more general skimmer questions if you don't mind. My current skimmer is an ASM G3 with a recirc mod on a 180G + about 40-50 gallons sump and fuge. I currently am lightly stocked with the following: 1 hippo tang, 2 o. clowns, 1 flame angel, 2 small chromis, 1 bicolor blenny. I do typically feed everyday (small amount). I don't seem to get hardly ANY skimmate, unless I practically close the outlet and it overflows. I can go weeks without dumping the cup. If I adjust it to the point where bubbles are right at the top of the cup, then it surges enough to cause the overflow.
Long-winded buildup to the questions, but here goes:
1) Do you think I should be getting more skimmate than I am? If not, that influences how soon I may upgrade, although I do plan to add more fish. I do have an algae problem (mostly hair algae)
2) Having never had a skimmer that sat outside the sump, how does one go about setting things up to reduce floods if the skimmer decides to go nuts and overflow?
wizsmaster
Moved On
I have my skimmer output on its own dedicated drain, and that drain cannot be submerged underwater, at least not for me ... if I do have it submerged, the water builds up inside the skimmer, and the air relieve where the silencer sits starts to gurgle ...
blenny90
Member
jwwill0
I currently have a similar setup - 210 with a 25g sump running a G3 with only the gate valve mod. I have about twenty fish, several 4" tangs and grow mainly SPS very successfully ... so far.
I clean my skimmer at least twice a week - very wet, stinky but I know I could be doing better. My skimmer was delivered today - trying to figure out how I can escape work :0
To me it sounds like you have very little bio-load - but the hair algae indicates either phosphates or nitrates. What corals are you growing?
I currently have a similar setup - 210 with a 25g sump running a G3 with only the gate valve mod. I have about twenty fish, several 4" tangs and grow mainly SPS very successfully ... so far.
I clean my skimmer at least twice a week - very wet, stinky but I know I could be doing better. My skimmer was delivered today - trying to figure out how I can escape work :0
To me it sounds like you have very little bio-load - but the hair algae indicates either phosphates or nitrates. What corals are you growing?
I have a mixed-reef setup. Except for problems with the hair algae growing into/around corals and killing them, everything seems ok. I have a derasa clam that is getting huge (about 10-12" now) A couple of small acros, very large hammer, several large pieces of a once very large trumpet, orange and green monti caps. (grow very well), mixed zoos and mushrooms around the bottom. Overall, LPS and softies are doing great, m. caps are doing great, acros don't do alot but I think I could improve that if I just had a little more time to watch it.
It just hasn't seemed like I was getting the water clean due to the low skimmate and hair algae. I haven't added anything new (fish or coral) in about two+ years, and have been worried about adding more because of the algae problems.
It just hasn't seemed like I was getting the water clean due to the low skimmate and hair algae. I haven't added anything new (fish or coral) in about two+ years, and have been worried about adding more because of the algae problems.
wizsmaster
Moved On
have you tested for phosphates? How high/low are they?
That is not a very acurate test in your case anyway, since the algae sucks up alot of the phosphates & uses them to grow.
Can you post a picture of your hair algae growth? I would add a Sailfin Tang, maybe a Yellow tang if you're into it ... they LOVE the algae. A cleanup crew would do wonders for you, red/blue legged crabs & scarletts, maybe some turbo snails as wel.
But it does sound like your skimmer may not be up to par ... If you're in the market, look att he smaller version fo the reeflo once it'll be released, that should fit well for you, based on what jeremy has been saying.
Best of luck.
That is not a very acurate test in your case anyway, since the algae sucks up alot of the phosphates & uses them to grow.
Can you post a picture of your hair algae growth? I would add a Sailfin Tang, maybe a Yellow tang if you're into it ... they LOVE the algae. A cleanup crew would do wonders for you, red/blue legged crabs & scarletts, maybe some turbo snails as wel.
But it does sound like your skimmer may not be up to par ... If you're in the market, look att he smaller version fo the reeflo once it'll be released, that should fit well for you, based on what jeremy has been saying.
Best of luck.
PO4 test shows zero (Salifert), but I know they are there. I need to order a new nitrate test kit. I've just done recent clean out of the tank, so the hair isn't so bad on the rocks right now.
Anyway, thanks for the help.
Now, about my second question regarding not having a flood with an external skimmer......:eek1:
Anyway, thanks for the help.
Now, about my second question regarding not having a flood with an external skimmer......:eek1:
JenDub
In Memoriam
Hi to all,
I've been working hard on the new system and have some updates on my progress.
I built a wet table for my skimmer by using a heavy duty "Gorilla Rack" as the stand for the skimmer. The shelves were replaced with 3/4" plywood and a hole drilled in one for a 1.5" bulkhead. Next I used a sheet of pvc (similar to pond liner) from the shower department at home depot as a liner on top of the the plywood. A hole was cut for the bulkhead and it was placed through the pond liner & through the plywood forming a basin. In order to creat the sides of the basin I used a set of shelves without the wood which creats a 3" lip around the entire basin. This was plumbed back to my sump and viola--no more overflows =)
I did use a gate valve on mine which makes tuning much easier. If I had mine to redo (my drain pipes are glued) I would use the adapter pipe (tooled down on one edge) directly into the union on the body. A gate valve would go on top followed by a tee and the usual pipe arrangement.
BTW- I feed mine with a quiet one 4000 (50w) which also feeds my carbon reactor. A quietone 3000 (35w) would be the best choice if you are only feeding the skimmer.
So far mine has been producing nice dark skimate on my 480g holding system. I keep my air at 3/4 open and then tune the top of the foam to the top of the cup's inner rim. I could not get any production with the air wide open but I get a thick shaving foam consistency foam haed using this method.
It's a great skimmer, definitely a winning purchase!
I've been working hard on the new system and have some updates on my progress.
I built a wet table for my skimmer by using a heavy duty "Gorilla Rack" as the stand for the skimmer. The shelves were replaced with 3/4" plywood and a hole drilled in one for a 1.5" bulkhead. Next I used a sheet of pvc (similar to pond liner) from the shower department at home depot as a liner on top of the the plywood. A hole was cut for the bulkhead and it was placed through the pond liner & through the plywood forming a basin. In order to creat the sides of the basin I used a set of shelves without the wood which creats a 3" lip around the entire basin. This was plumbed back to my sump and viola--no more overflows =)
I did use a gate valve on mine which makes tuning much easier. If I had mine to redo (my drain pipes are glued) I would use the adapter pipe (tooled down on one edge) directly into the union on the body. A gate valve would go on top followed by a tee and the usual pipe arrangement.
BTW- I feed mine with a quiet one 4000 (50w) which also feeds my carbon reactor. A quietone 3000 (35w) would be the best choice if you are only feeding the skimmer.
So far mine has been producing nice dark skimate on my 480g holding system. I keep my air at 3/4 open and then tune the top of the foam to the top of the cup's inner rim. I could not get any production with the air wide open but I get a thick shaving foam consistency foam haed using this method.
It's a great skimmer, definitely a winning purchase!
JRaquatics
New member
JenDub- do you have any pics of your setup?
blenny90
Member
JenDub - very interested in pics of your setup. When available please email to :
mkplumlee@sbcglobal.net
I received mine yesterday - came in very good shape - if it wasn't for Paul Whitby's instructions it would have been next to impossible to put together.
Interested in your gate valve mod. - Also, in Whitby's instructions he states that the tee for the return should be pointing in a specific direction. Does it matter? It will be several weeks before I have it hooked up to my main system, but I may test run this weekend.
mkplumlee@sbcglobal.net
I received mine yesterday - came in very good shape - if it wasn't for Paul Whitby's instructions it would have been next to impossible to put together.
Interested in your gate valve mod. - Also, in Whitby's instructions he states that the tee for the return should be pointing in a specific direction. Does it matter? It will be several weeks before I have it hooked up to my main system, but I may test run this weekend.
blenny90
Member
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