Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
FishTruck
Premium Member
Calculate your head pressure and shoot for something that will give about 500-600 gph. Ideally, put in a gate valve so you can dial it down if necessary.
I currently use a little giant 2-MDQ-SC with about 3 feet of head = 465 gph. I keep it wide open.
For submersible pumps, MAG5s seem popular.
I currently use a little giant 2-MDQ-SC with about 3 feet of head = 465 gph. I keep it wide open.
For submersible pumps, MAG5s seem popular.
BreadmanMike
New member
I'm using a Quiet One 2200.
Hey all! Great thread with tons of info.
In case anyone is interested, I just posted a little step by step intstruction series in my build thread regarding replacing the stock Reeflo 250 NW with Reef Specialty's custom NW: Replacing NW
In case anyone is interested, I just posted a little step by step intstruction series in my build thread regarding replacing the stock Reeflo 250 NW with Reef Specialty's custom NW: Replacing NW
spongebobby
Member
Here is a video testing out the Reef Specialty NW for the Reeflo200 . Seems to be working great.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v739/spongebobby/?action=view¤t=100_0819.flv
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v739/spongebobby/?action=view¤t=100_0819.flv
Well, I just got my new toy!!!!
I have a stock Orca 250 and I have the NW and oversized collection cup from Mike at Reefspecialty.
When I bought the pieces from Mike, he mention I would probably need to drill out the air valve as well.
I'm very much a plug-and-play type of guy, so forgive my naive question. How exactly do I do this and does anyone have a recommended final diameter or drill bit size?
I'm assuming the idea is to cut the tip off of the barbed end, but then do I keep all 4 of barbed ridges or should I cut it down to a certain barb?
I have a stock Orca 250 and I have the NW and oversized collection cup from Mike at Reefspecialty.
When I bought the pieces from Mike, he mention I would probably need to drill out the air valve as well.
I'm very much a plug-and-play type of guy, so forgive my naive question. How exactly do I do this and does anyone have a recommended final diameter or drill bit size?
I'm assuming the idea is to cut the tip off of the barbed end, but then do I keep all 4 of barbed ridges or should I cut it down to a certain barb?
i use a dental tool, a pick with about a 45 degree bend at the tip, but i imagine a good stiff paper clip would do the same. with everything running as normal, unscrew the barbed connector and look in. the air path makes an annoying turn, a bent tool is easier to get around the turn. just poke away, the fragments will get sucked in if you can't get a big chunk out.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13559352#post13559352 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ryan009
Well, I just got my new toy!!!!
I have a stock Orca 250 and I have the NW and oversized collection cup from Mike at Reefspecialty.
When I bought the pieces from Mike, he mention I would probably need to drill out the air valve as well.
I'm very much a plug-and-play type of guy, so forgive my naive question. How exactly do I do this and does anyone have a recommended final diameter or drill bit size?
I'm assuming the idea is to cut the tip off of the barbed end, but then do I keep all 4 of barbed ridges or should I cut it down to a certain barb?
Bump.... any suggestions guys?
JRaquatics
New member
Clip off the first two section of barbs. Then twist the valve apart and remove the oring from the upper half. Then drill a 1/4 inch hole through both ends and ball (make sure the ball is in the open position). The go back through the hole very carefully with a 5/16ths bit and make sure you are drilling straight so you don't ruin the seat for the oring.
JRaquatics
New member
Yes, the two parts should come apart with little effort.
I started unpacking the skimmer and setting it up tonight.
What a wonderful unit! The only downside is the instructions are weak.
The skimmer came with three sections of straight pipe, small, medium, and large (actually they're all the same diameter, they only vary in length). Which length connects the skimmer base to the T?
Also, it comes with this nice valve with a barb on it that connects to a union on the skimmer base. I'm assuming this is just a drain for servicing?
And last but not least, there are two different sections of vinyl tubing. One appears to be semi-opaque silicon? The other is typical flexible vinyl tubing. Which one should be used for the air supply and which one should be used for the waste drain?
What a wonderful unit! The only downside is the instructions are weak.
The skimmer came with three sections of straight pipe, small, medium, and large (actually they're all the same diameter, they only vary in length). Which length connects the skimmer base to the T?
Also, it comes with this nice valve with a barb on it that connects to a union on the skimmer base. I'm assuming this is just a drain for servicing?
And last but not least, there are two different sections of vinyl tubing. One appears to be semi-opaque silicon? The other is typical flexible vinyl tubing. Which one should be used for the air supply and which one should be used for the waste drain?
FishTruck
Premium Member
Ryan.
Put the short tube on your skimmer base. The "T" should sit no higher than the REEFLO logo on the skimmer. You may even need to shorten it (most people do). This will define the lower end of your ability to adjust the water level. If it is too high, the skimmer will constantly overflow. There is no risk to making it a little too short.
The beveled piece then goes straight up. Use this to restrict the outflow and this controls the water level in your skimmer. The long piece back to your sump.
The flexible tubing. The shorter piece goes from the silencer to your venturi. This is the "air supply". Make it as short as possible to minimize resistance to the air intake. If the lengths are the same... I would use the clear one on your waste cup so you can see if it is clogged more easily. I guess.
Hope that helps.
Put the short tube on your skimmer base. The "T" should sit no higher than the REEFLO logo on the skimmer. You may even need to shorten it (most people do). This will define the lower end of your ability to adjust the water level. If it is too high, the skimmer will constantly overflow. There is no risk to making it a little too short.
The beveled piece then goes straight up. Use this to restrict the outflow and this controls the water level in your skimmer. The long piece back to your sump.
The flexible tubing. The shorter piece goes from the silencer to your venturi. This is the "air supply". Make it as short as possible to minimize resistance to the air intake. If the lengths are the same... I would use the clear one on your waste cup so you can see if it is clogged more easily. I guess.
Hope that helps.
Lowredranger
New member
I hopefully will be placing my order with Mike soon for an Orca 200, i will have a 180g mixed reef with 75g sump/fuge. I can't figure out whether i should just get the basic model to start and upgrade down the road or go ahead and get the pro model and the new NW.
JRaquatics
New member
IMO go with the stock 200 for now. As your tank matures you can always add the pro set up later.
Lowredranger
New member
Thanks will do.
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