Reeftanks6 90g reef build thread ( pic intense)

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11527337#post11527337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scotmc
You need to put the ball valve under the T for the fuge. This will allow you to control how much water gets to you fuge. The way it is figured now. The water will just go straight.
Click to expand...

That is correct.

What is in the black box section of the sump? I'm asking because you have the skimmer's output going there. I would recommend you have it pointed to the opposite end of the sump, the farthest point away from the return pump.

I would change out the return pump plumbing to a larger size, now that you've seen what 3/4" can do. ;)

You said you need to add salt slowly. Why?

There shouldn't be anything to skim out of the tank if it is pure water and salt. It won't hurt a thing to turn it on once salinity has been brought up to standard. What salinity do you keep your tanks at?

Conversation in these threads is completely up to you. The more information you cover, the more interaction you'll get. Sometimes questions can stimulate more exchange, sometimes it won't.
 
I would start the skimmer as soon as you add the salt. It probably won't serve much of a purpose, but at least you could get it hooked up and plumbed right. That way, when you get your sand and rock, the skimmer will be ready to go. If your salt isn't mixed in yet, don't hook up the skimmer.

Also, I agree with scotmc. There is no reason for the water to turn into the refugium if there is no restriction after the Tee.
 
Ok thanks for the reply guys scotmc and jc since i am changing all the plumbing for the drain i dont no what iam going to do.
I will put the skimmer on after i add some rock and the sand i still have to get my light (Money!!)
Melev i might be changing my pump up to the next size but not sure of that either. The black part is a thing that pushes the water through the bottom because there is a sponge there and thats why there is less water in the pump section so if i were to have a power outage i will have plenty of room for all the water that trains in the sump. Also the skimmer isn't in the right place its just there for know but i will move it soon. Well for the salt thing i talked to uncle and he said to add it slowly i will do it slowly anyway because i need to work more for money so it will take a little longer. I still need to wait a little longer for the chlorine to come out of the water which i can add some salt tomorrow i will post pics when i do it
 
ok the fish thing i am leaning towards not getting anthor tang with my tank because i understand that sailfin needs a lot of room but instead i was thinking of getting a Bicolor foxface or Magnificent Foxface what do u guys think?
 
Keep it up reef, how come you didnt just drill the fuge tank though?? If the flow is not fast enough through the fuge, and usually fuges are slow flowing, it might lose its siphon.

between the foxfaces, i dunno much about them, or their personality. I would go with the magnificent cause i like how he looks better. :)
 
its not the fuge that doesnt have flow i no there not suppose to have that much flow its the tank that doesnt have that much flow but its got flow. I think i might just go with sailfin and the magnificent foxface
 
<b>since i am changing all the plumbing for the drain i dont no what iam going to do.</b>

What is wrong with the drain plumbing? To move the ballvalve, cut that section with the ballvalve out, leaving at least 1" of PVC sticking out of each end.

Then cut under the Tee fitting.

Next use a coupling to glue the drain pipe to the Tee section.

Use a coupling to glue the ballvalve section beneath the Tee section.

Use a coupling to glue the drain line under the ballvalve.

It'll take 10 minutes to do this, and it will cost you the price of three couplings. $1 - $1.50.


<b>I will put the skimmer on after i add some rock and the sand i still have to get my light (Money!!)</b>

You can turn on the skimmer as soon as the water is mixed to the right salinity. Skimmers don't work in freshwater. Might as well break it in.

<b>Melev i might be changing my pump up to the next size but not sure of that either.</b>

Next size down, or next size up? If you are planning to go to a large pump, then change the plumbing as I suggested in my original post. You will get more flow that way, using the exact same pump.

<b>The black part is a thing that pushes the water through the bottom because there is a sponge there and thats why there is less water in the pump section so if i were to have a power outage i will have plenty of room for all the water that trains in the sump. </b>

The black thing contains a filter sponge?

The water level looks fine to me.

<b>Also the skimmer isn't in the right place its just there for know but i will move it soon.</b>

Good.


<b> Well for the salt thing i talked to uncle and he said to add it slowly i will do it slowly anyway because i need to work more for money so it will take a little longer.</b>

Maybe you mean something different than what I'm thinking. You can add all the salt you need (1/2 cup per gallon) in the display tank, and it will dissolve completely. Do you not have the money to buy the salt?


<b>I still need to wait a little longer for the chlorine to come out of the water which i can add some salt tomorrow i will post pics when i do it </b>

Chlorine? Unless the tap water in your area is exceptional ( TDS under 10) I would recommend you buy RO/DI water. It is sold by the one gallon jugs at your supermarket for about $.45 a gallon. Tap water contains a lot more than just chlorine, and many tanks suffer from nuisance algae because of it. Tap water has trace metals, chlorine, flouride, nitrate, phosphate, sediment and more. Your LFS probably sells RO water, and many people bring empty jugs that the store fills up. It's a drag lugging that water home, but if you don't have a RO/DI system at home, that is your next best option.

Are you using Sechem's Prime to dechlorinate the water?

<b> ok the fish thing i am leaning towards not getting anthor tang with my tank because i understand that sailfin needs a lot of room but instead i was thinking of getting a Bicolor foxface or Magnificent Foxface what do u guys think?</b>

I wouldn't buy any fish yet if you don't have the money for salt. Save what you can to buy your lights, salt, test kits and more. Then once the tank is ready, then start buying more fish.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11528091#post11528091 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
<b>since i am changing all the plumbing for the drain i dont no what iam going to do.</b>

What is wrong with the drain plumbing? To move the ballvalve, cut that section with the ballvalve out, leaving at least 1" of PVC sticking out of each end.

Then cut under the Tee fitting.

Next use a coupling to glue the drain pipe to the Tee section.

Use a coupling to glue the ballvalve section beneath the Tee section.

Use a coupling to glue the drain line under the ballvalve.

It'll take 10 minutes to do this, and it will cost you the price of three couplings. $1 - $1.50.


<b>I will put the skimmer on after i add some rock and the sand i still have to get my light (Money!!)</b>

You can turn on the skimmer as soon as the water is mixed to the right salinity. Skimmers don't work in freshwater. Might as well break it in.

<b>Melev i might be changing my pump up to the next size but not sure of that either.</b>

Next size down, or next size up? If you are planning to go to a large pump, then change the plumbing as I suggested in my original post. You will get more flow that way, using the exact same pump.

<b>The black part is a thing that pushes the water through the bottom because there is a sponge there and thats why there is less water in the pump section so if i were to have a power outage i will have plenty of room for all the water that trains in the sump. </b>

The black thing contains a filter sponge?

The water level looks fine to me.

<b>Also the skimmer isn't in the right place its just there for know but i will move it soon.</b>

Good.


<b> Well for the salt thing i talked to uncle and he said to add it slowly i will do it slowly anyway because i need to work more for money so it will take a little longer.</b>

Maybe you mean something different than what I'm thinking. You can add all the salt you need (1/2 cup per gallon) in the display tank, and it will dissolve completely. Do you not have the money to buy the salt?


<b>I still need to wait a little longer for the chlorine to come out of the water which i can add some salt tomorrow i will post pics when i do it </b>

Chlorine? Unless the tap water in your area is exceptional ( TDS under 10) I would recommend you buy RO/DI water. It is sold by the one gallon jugs at your supermarket for about $.45 a gallon. Tap water contains a lot more than just chlorine, and many tanks suffer from nuisance algae because of it. Tap water has trace metals, chlorine, flouride, nitrate, phosphate, sediment and more. Your LFS probably sells RO water, and many people bring empty jugs that the store fills up. It's a drag lugging that water home, but if you don't have a RO/DI system at home, that is your next best option.

Are you using Sechem's Prime to dechlorinate the water?

<b> ok the fish thing i am leaning towards not getting anthor tang with my tank because i understand that sailfin needs a lot of room but instead i was thinking of getting a Bicolor foxface or Magnificent Foxface what do u guys think?</b>

I wouldn't buy any fish yet if you don't have the money for salt. Save what you can to buy your lights, salt, test kits and more. Then once the tank is ready, then start buying more fish.
Click to expand...

alright melev comments back i have the money for the salt and stuff i got everything but the light. Also i was thinking on buying the fish know. I am still not sure what to do with the plumbing will think about. I will definitely turn the skimmer on after i add the salt. I also just want to raise the water line just a little more its a little below really can see it in the pictures though. The black thing does contain a filter sponge it will just catch the big stuff that gets through the sock and the skimmer. I always let my water sit a little before i do anything with it idk why but its just something i do. I am not using Sechems prime to dechlorinate the water.
 
Don't just sit there. Make the changes, add the salt, and post some pictures. You don't want this thread to die, do you? :lol:
 
lol melev i am makeing some of the changes today will post pics later. I dont know what type of algae it is but its bad
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11529886#post11529886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jake_07
What type of algae is it? it looks realy bad
Click to expand...

The red stuff is cyano bacteria.
 
Ok here are some pics of the new setup

Here is all the new plumbing
PICT0036.jpg


here is the hang-on overflow box that will take the water from the fuge to the sump but i dont know how it works just yet any ideas would be really helpful
PICT0035.jpg


here is the fuge
PICT0034.jpg


this is the sump everything is in the right place know
PICT0033.jpg
 
the box inside the fuge should be higher, you want the u-tube to actually be inside it, below the teeth preferably. Also on the outside box, I don't see a baffle to separate a section for the u-tube. If there isnt one, it'll lose its siphon
 
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