rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Bobby where did u find the cubes? All I see r bio stones? I havent looked to hard just did a quick google seach. I have been bb from day 1 and havend needed this added media but worth learning and doing some reading
Remote DSB? Do or Aviod?
- Thread starter bigzman
- Start date
Bobby thanks again. Reading up on marine pure. I am not doing the DSB on main display so removing or up keep of sand should not be to hard. I agree from personal experience that the 5 year mark is as good as it gets when running a DSB. I would like the extra buffering and trace elements. Was thinking of mixing in miracle mud.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Miracle mud is a cool idea. I considered doing it myself.
However at the end of the day, I decided that the weekly 10 to 15 % water changes replenished the trace elements my system was absorbing.
I believe miracle mud would be more helpful (acting as a crutch) if you only were performing monthly water changes and you really were needing a bit more support by restoring your trace elements till the next water change.
In regards to high nutrient/phosphate export, and the only thing you were deciding to do different is to add Miracle mud - to me more frequent water changes would be an improvement to your over all water quality.
I believe in your current situation from what I have initially read, adding ony Miracle mud will not quickly reduce your nitrate phosphate delimna.
Unless you happened to add on a huge refugium with a bunch of macro algea. Fuge research on RC directs a beneficial system to be at least 10% plus of your total water volume.
Miracle mud has large traces of iron, which will boost macro algea production.
The bio media will help reduce nitrates, however your phosphates will still be a battle.
I bit the bullet and set up a GFO reactor to be extra careful above and beyond my 20 gallon fuge and 0 TDS ato/water change supply.
I never tried miracle mud, but I messed around with mineral mud and my zoa polyp extension were bulging as a direct result. Very interesting.
(This is solely based on my opinion)
However at the end of the day, I decided that the weekly 10 to 15 % water changes replenished the trace elements my system was absorbing.
I believe miracle mud would be more helpful (acting as a crutch) if you only were performing monthly water changes and you really were needing a bit more support by restoring your trace elements till the next water change.
In regards to high nutrient/phosphate export, and the only thing you were deciding to do different is to add Miracle mud - to me more frequent water changes would be an improvement to your over all water quality.
I believe in your current situation from what I have initially read, adding ony Miracle mud will not quickly reduce your nitrate phosphate delimna.
Unless you happened to add on a huge refugium with a bunch of macro algea. Fuge research on RC directs a beneficial system to be at least 10% plus of your total water volume.
Miracle mud has large traces of iron, which will boost macro algea production.
The bio media will help reduce nitrates, however your phosphates will still be a battle.
I bit the bullet and set up a GFO reactor to be extra careful above and beyond my 20 gallon fuge and 0 TDS ato/water change supply.
I never tried miracle mud, but I messed around with mineral mud and my zoa polyp extension were bulging as a direct result. Very interesting.
(This is solely based on my opinion)
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Ted and bobby,
I don't see any info on how many blocks u need to get nitrate reduction on a particular size water volume.
I have used miricle mud in a past setup. I had great results in that setup all the way around. I can't say it was because of the mud, but I'm sure it didn't hurt.
I don't see any info on how many blocks u need to get nitrate reduction on a particular size water volume.
I have used miricle mud in a past setup. I had great results in that setup all the way around. I can't say it was because of the mud, but I'm sure it didn't hurt.
Ted_C
Active member
shrugs - I dunno. I went overkill - I have two of em in mine (165 gallon total system volume). I dont think they know either. reading between the lines on the box - they are more hyping the ammonia / nitrite cycle than the nitrates.
Its hard to determine how much of an anxoic zone you get to quantify nitrate reduction to N2. I have mine suspended on egg crate in the sump (about 1/2" I think - however much one row of egg crate is) - so I have flow all around every side of the two blocks.
Its hard to determine how much of an anxoic zone you get to quantify nitrate reduction to N2. I have mine suspended on egg crate in the sump (about 1/2" I think - however much one row of egg crate is) - so I have flow all around every side of the two blocks.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Great question - the bio media mentions the equvilancy of rock surface area. My opinion, the more the better .. .. .. as much as you can fit with out creating dead zones.
Suspending ontop of a DIY egg crate shelf is exactly what I have done so I have flow on all sides of the 8x8x4 block.
The Bulk Reef Supply Video does a pretty good job on it.
Check it out .. .. .. awesome products!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByTzKjqYA2U
Suspending ontop of a DIY egg crate shelf is exactly what I have done so I have flow on all sides of the 8x8x4 block.
The Bulk Reef Supply Video does a pretty good job on it.
Check it out .. .. .. awesome products!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByTzKjqYA2U
Roger I to haven't found that number. I don't have a place in current fug that has high enough flow for blocks. Does it need direct flow? As for mud I liked the idea of reduced water changes I am doing 50 gallon changes monthly now. I have Gfo reactor and I have not used it since macro algae in current fug seems to be doing the job. Granted it is not 10 % larger than display tank. Might set up gfo again just in case.
Bobby's, thanks for video that was a cool demo. Wouldn't a canister filter loaded with seachem matrix archive flow requirements as well as contact time? Seachem matrix is cheap. I do that now with discus tank and have great results. Nitrate and nitrite are at 0. I also run Gfo in that canister.
Ali :D
New member
I don't really think you can have too much. Too little is possible but too much, the filter is just a surface area for bacterial growth to denitrifying the water. Having too much would just mean that the bacteria would have the space to populate when it was needed but die off when it wasn't needed.
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
So does this stuff last forever? I see it says to back wash/rinse every 3 months but does it dissolve or get clogged?
aguila88psi
Zoa Addict
Forever: yes, its basically man made pourous ceramic block
Maintenance: it gets clogged with debris larger then the pores, its recommended to clean every once and a while.
Maintenance: it gets clogged with debris larger then the pores, its recommended to clean every once and a while.
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
So any recommendations on how many blocks for 150gal of water? I understand the more the better. What minimum recommended?
aguila88psi
Zoa Addict
Don't know but I'm positive if you already have 1lb rock per gallon then your ok, adding a block will boost your biofiltration to better handle ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and all the stuff that happens in the cycle. If you have 1/2lb to 3/4 lb of rock per gallon then 2-3 blocks should be added but I would only consider the block as being a supplement and not a replacement for actual rock.
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Ok well. I'm really just looking for nitrate removal. I would like to not have to carbon dose. I will start with one. Free shipping so no saving on buying two.
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
I ordered 2 of the 4x4x8 my goal is to not need to carbon source dose anything. I know I still have PO4 to deal with but over a year and that has never been an issue with this setup.
Can they be in the light? Any worries of algae growth or anything?
Roger
Can they be in the light? Any worries of algae growth or anything?
Roger
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Have you seen me. Im so white. I just say inside all day checking RC I never get sun
Bobby do u feel u get nitrate removal from these? Do u feel that r more porous then rook? Meaning this 8x8x4 block would be equal to say 3 large peices of live rock? Just an example.
Roger
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Have you seen me. Im so white. I just say inside all day checking RC I never get sun
Bobby do u feel u get nitrate removal from these? Do u feel that r more porous then rook? Meaning this 8x8x4 block would be equal to say 3 large peices of live rock? Just an example.
Roger
My honest opinion about bio media is that they are live rock on steroids. Great space savers.
Packed full of good bacteria that break down non organic wastes.
They are designed to support an entire system as a substitute for rock.
Check out the BRS anemome cultivating video.
They highlight the technology as the only object in a tank keeping nitrates in check.
When I ripped out all my rock in the 300 to start all over, one 8x8x4 block supported my entire system for 3 weeks.
Not one dead fish.
If you got 2 units, I think you would be all set!
I wouldn't rinse them - I would put them in a high flow area of your sump and let them do their thing. They don't require maintenance unless you want to turkey baste them once in a while.
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