WOW! Every scoly I've seen that is on the verge of death ends up dying. PLEASE tell us what you did!
Really? Glad it worked out for me then!
Ok, I don't claim to be an expert, but I think I've had plenty of success over the last 4 years to at least give some advice.
First thing - selecting the coral:
My LFS know that I rescue corals, and usually keep me in mind when they get a damaged shipment. This includes boxes that got overheated during shipping, damaged corals during shipping, and sometimes "freebies" that wholesalers throw in since they know they can't sell them. Some other LFS purposely order "damaged" shipments. Get to know your LFS and keep an eye out!
For the actual coral itself, look for corals that have at least the majority of one mouth. I haven't had any luck rescuing corals with less than 3/4 of a mouth (unless they are my own frags). Usually rescue corals with less than 3/4 of a mouth have just gone through so much stress they won't survive. (If it's a freebie though, it's worth trying!!) Avoid corals with jelly-like substances on them. I also try to avoid obvious pest-damaged corals unless I know exactly how to treat it and have the medication on hand. Nothing worse than coming home to a pest you don't know how to treat and don't have the medication for!
Tank itself:
Of course, you want stable parameters, but this is really really important with rescue corals!! I actually acclimate the rescue corals less than healthy corals (float for ~15 min) since they are probably just getting their bag water really nasty.
Next - dip in Lugol's. I have other dips on hand, but I find this one is the best for rescue corals. During the dip I inspect for pests (and treat as needed).
Here's where I think is the
MOST IMPORTANT!!! Use bone cutters to remove excess dead skeleton. New tissue growth seems to have more trouble covering old skeleton than it does making new skeleton. After that, superglue wherever tissue is torn/missing. This will help the flow in your tank from literally ripping the tissue off.
Keep hermit crabs away from the rescue coral for about a month. They will often go after dead tissue to the point of ripping away good tissue...which will ultimately kill the coral.
Food:
For about the first month I'll feed my corals as if they were non-photosynthetic (about 3 times per week). I use my own homemade blend of raw oysters, clams, shrimp, whatever other raw shellfish I can find, seaweed (red, green, brown), sugar, and garlic. Initially, this can be very difficult. If the coral refuses to extend tentacles, I'll turn off all flow and drop sinking fish pellets right onto each mouth. It'll take a while, but the coral will eventually open its mouth. If you still have trouble, placing the coral into a container full of food will work as well (see all the non-photosynthetic tutorials).
Lighting & Flow:
Keep the coral in a pretty low light/low flow area. After the coral starts to heal and recover, you should be able to move it slowly to a higher light/higher flow area.
One last note:
Just be patient - know that you're doing a good thing to help save corals that would otherwise probably die. You'll still have some losses...but learn from those. The rewards will be worth it.
This rescue didn't make it - why? Hermit crabs literally ripped it to shreds.
