RO/DI installation questions

E

EDJFA

New member
Now that I've redone my utility room to be a quasi fish room, I would like to more permanently install my RO/DI system. I have a "Kerick Valve MA252 PVC Mini Float Valve, Tank Mount, Adjustable Arm, 1.5 gpm at 60 psi, 1/4" Tube" in my Amazon cart ready to be shipped. I'll be installing that in my big Brute trash can.

My RO/DI came with a screw type fitting that attaches to a water hose or to a faucet. I've been attaching it to my utility sink's faucet, but I've replaced that faucet with one that doesn't have threads on the aerator. I would like to install it straight to the water line and leave the faucet alone. Am I right in thinking that I should use an angle stop adapter installed in-line under the sink?

And finally, my RO/DI has 4 stages. I couldn't tell you what micron filter is in either the sediment or carbon block stage. I also couldn't tell you when they were changed last because I bought them used. And I don't have a TDS meter, ordered an in-line one today, so I can't tell you if the membrane needs changed or if the filters are still working. For all I know I'm just dumping St. Charles water into my tank.

Do any of you guys in St. Charles ever need anything other than the basic 4 stage filter? It doesn't look to difficult or expensive to add another stage if necessary. Nobody has ever mentioned chloramines around here, so I would assume that means they're not an issue.

As always, thanks for the help and the suggestions. If it seems like I'm missing something, let me know.
 
Half of our water comes from St. Louis County. Rumor has it that chloramines are occasionally used in our water supply. Just to be safe I've been using Prime in my RO water and plan to upgrade to a chloramine kit at next filter change. Either that, or I'm going back to tap with Prime. :D
 
Now that you mention it, Pife told me in a different thread that chloramines were added to our water out here during the winter months. At least that's what I remember him saying. It was in response to a thread about why my skimmer was suddenly going crazy and overflowing.

Maybe I should add a chloramines kit when I change my filters too.
 
The angle stop adapter I would think would work perfect. Are you going to mount a saddle mount on the drain for your waste water line? Don't forget about the waste line.
I live in creve Coeur and we are on saint Louis county water. They use Chloramines in their water(I tested it to verify).I did not think saint Charles county did but if they get it from saint Louis county it will have chloramines. Chloramines are harder on filters because of that I personally went with a 6 stage system. (2) chloramine blocks and (2) DI chambers. If you are going to run a lot of water you may want to think about adding a 2 stage add on. If you are not running a lot of water the 4 stage I would think would be just fine.
 
I ran a utility sink at the same time, but I took a Sharkbite 'T' fitting and put it inline of my water supply. Then added a valve to turn it on and off. Then ran the 3/8 directly to my RO unit which I mounted on wall and feeds directly into my mixing station. Can try to put a pic up when i get home later.
 
I didn't think about the waste line. I like the drain saddle idea. Did you get one locally? Lowes didn't have one in their online inventory. Neither did HD or Grainger.
 
I have not heard that. It would be located above the p-trap. The drain saddles only sell for 5-6 dollars. I had one on a drinking water tap installed at my last house in o'fallon Missouri and they mounted a drain saddle. I could see a large drain saddle being agains code if it was mounted after a p-trap or on the main soil stack.
 
You said you were in a utility room correct? If the drain saddle happens to be against code you can use a floor drain or washer drain also. those you can just stick the hose down into.
 
i used this for the feed
41Opzw0JS6L._SY300_.jpg

and drilled a hole in my sink drain and taped it out to thread a quick conect into it for waste. brs universal carbon blocks are what i have been using since the water over here in east alton might as well be straight out of the river and clensed with chloramines lol.
 
Aqua Man 07 said:
i used this for the feed
41Opzw0JS6L._SY300_.jpg

and drilled a hole in my sink drain and taped it out to thread a quick conect into it for waste. brs universal carbon blocks are what i have been using since the water over here in east alton might as well be straight out of the river and clensed with chloramines lol.
Click to expand...

do NOT use that type of water attachment on PVC or plastic water lines! You are asking for trouble if you do. I in general don't use those on any line cause they will leak at some time. the best thing to do it use the same type line attachments and do it right. My new house had one of those on CPVC to supply water to the refrigerator and it leaked bad.
 
It's on a copper line like it was made for. dont worry leak free for well over a year now. And I've used them on refrigerator suply also with no issues. Thanks for your concern tho
 
I also would not use those. It's not leaking now but I have seen many leak. I would hate to flood my basement because of a bad fitting. IMHO
 
Never had a problem with them myself if it does leak I'll notice it right away and simply replace the 5.00 part. Wort case I'll cut the copper line and sweat a t on it and plumb it to a shutoff. It will be fine.
 
My situation is a little different in that I don't have the freedom to tap into the building's water lines. Not that I can't, but since it's not my house or my building, but rather a leased space, I've got to work with add on plumbing, like the adapter I ordered.

My plan is to either mount the unit under the sink where it's out of the way or on the wall above the sink. If it's under the sink, a saddle mount like mpgrant mentioned would work perfectly. If it's above, I'll just let the waste water run into the sink and down the drain. The floor drain is right in front of the sink, but I'd rather not have a line sitting on the floor for me to step on all the time.

Thanks for the input from all of you. Once I get the TDS meter, I might (will probably) be back asking about filter combinations.
 
About the only time a saddle will leak is if you are turning it on and off a lot and the packing that keeps the needle valve watertite fails. Even then it will only drip slowly. It can be repacked or just replaced.
 
If you have access to the sink supply shut off look for a
1/2 in. Nom Comp Inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp Dual Outlet Dual Shut-Off

The big orange box store has them for like $25. Very simple and easy, no rigging involved, and code compliant
 
its not pretty but does the job ill be adding a booster pump and a second 75gpd membrane to make it into a 150gpd water saver. brs sells a kit to add a second membrane.
DSC_0279_zpswd52bbgr.jpg

2 pre filters 3 brs universal carbon blocks. and a dual di i got chitty water
 
I run a pre-filter, (2) chloramine plus blocks, RO membrane, and (2) DI resin canisters along with dual tds monitor and waste water auto shutoff. Mine is in the laundry room so I split on my water tap for my washer and it runs to the RO/DI unit then the waste water just runs to the washer drain. Then I have two small barrels with float switches that run water to. One for holding saltwater and one for straight RO/DI water. Nothing fancy for me either.

<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/DSC01139.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/DSC01139.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC01139.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/DSC01140.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/DSC01140.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC01140.jpg"/></a>
 
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