RO/DI - Opinions

[elliottsa]

I have used this RO/DI for the last several years:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REEF-HOME-D...LTER-SYSTEM-/200803354291?hash=item2ec0d006b3

For some reason, I can't get the TDS (I've purchased two differnet brand meters and they are calibrated and get the same reading -around 20 or higher.) I've had algae problems ever since setting my new tank up (over 2 years now - even with a controlled feeding routine, frequent 20% water changes, reduced lights, etc.) so I can only think that the RO/DI is my nutrient problem. Are these not up to snuff these days? Is there something much better out there today? Thanks for any info - I'm really becoming frastruted with this algae.

 

[CafeReef]

have you ever replaced the DI cartridge or the membrane? the DI cartridge will disipate over time which will cause an increase in TDS. Do you know what your TDS out of the faucet is?

 

[elliottsa]

Yeah - relace all filters every 6 months and the membrane every year. Out of faucet is normally around 120.

 

[tkeracer619]

Who do you get your water from? IE who sends you a bill?

 

[Pablos RSM 450]

Yeah - relace all filters every 6 months and the membrane every year. Out of faucet is normally around 120.

My water comes in at 400+TDS in San Diego. I use the BRS 6 stage 75GPD unit. Water after the first DI canister comes out at 11 TDS and after the second DI canister comes out at 0. You can purchase an upgrade system for your RODI. Make sure that your membrane is matched to your flow restrictor

400-550ml for 75 GPD Membrane (per BRS)
600ml for 100GPD Membrane (per BRS)
800ml for 150GPD Membrane (per BRS)

Here is a link to an upgrade kit.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/value-to-universal-upgrade-kit.html

 

[srope]

My water comes in at 400+TDS in San Diego. I use the BRS 6 stage 75GPD unit. Water after the first DI canister comes out at 11 TDS and after the second DI canister comes out at 0. You can purchase an upgrade system for your RODI. Make sure that your membrane is matched to your flow restrictor

400-550ml for 75 GPD Membrane (per BRS)
600ml for 100GPD Membrane (per BRS)
800ml for 150GPD Membrane (per BRS)

Here is a link to an upgrade kit.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/value-to-universal-upgrade-kit.html

Your first DI stage is taking out your second stage prematurely at 11 Tds. I would remove the first stage and replace it with the second stage. Then replace the second stage with a brand new DI canister.

 

[runningrandy04]

I have a similar unit that I have been using for 8 years. While they are cheap and get you the basics, a few things should be added. If your kit doesn't have a flush valve, you should get the 600mL valve/restriction from brs. If your unit is several years old, the auto shutoff valve should to changed yearly on a unit with constant use. Otherwise, the waste water will never stop and run through your sediment/carbon filters faster. That inline DI canister is also only good for 50-100 gals and doesn't have the dwell time to reduce tds to 0. I just used spare canisters to create my own dual di kit. Other option is the http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dual-deionization-canister-1.html
One other consideration is your water pressure. Low pressure will make the unit less effective. it would never hurt to get the add on pressure gauge, but it's not needed.

 

[Pablos RSM 450]

Your first DI stage is taking out your second stage prematurely at 11 Tds. I would remove the first stage and replace it with the second stage. Then replace the second stage with a brand new DI canister.

Thats exactly what I will do this Saturday when I get my DI resin delivered

 

[jbvdhp]

RO/DI - Opinions

My water comes in at 400+TDS in San Diego. I use the BRS 6 stage 75GPD unit. Water after the first DI canister comes out at 11 TDS and after the second DI canister comes out at 0. You can purchase an upgrade system for your RODI. Make sure that your membrane is matched to your flow restrictor



400-550ml for 75 GPD Membrane (per BRS)

600ml for 100GPD Membrane (per BRS)

800ml for 150GPD Membrane (per BRS)



Here is a link to an upgrade kit.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/value-to-universal-upgrade-kit.html

I'm from SD and get the exact numbers. Are you in the Helix water district? After DI 1 I'm at 10-11 and 2 I'm with ZERO TDS.

Op, spend the money and go with the BRS 6 stage universal system. It's worth every penny. It may be the same into that the filter guys are selling.

 

[tkeracer619]

I'm from SD and get the exact numbers. Are you in the Helix water district? After DI 1 I'm at 10-11 and 2 I'm with ZERO TDS.

Op, spend the money and go with the BRS 6 stage universal system. It's worth every penny. It may be the same into that the filter guys are selling.

Or you could get a spectrapure 99% rejection maxcap system and get 2-4tds before di, 0 after 1st di, and 0 after 2nd di. Save you some bucks long term. But since you already have the housings I would consider switching the filters over to spectrapure and set it up like a maxcap.

 

[jbvdhp]

Or you could get a spectrapure 99% rejection maxcap system and get 2-4tds before di, 0 after 1st di, and 0 after 2nd di. Save you some bucks long term. But since you already have the housings I would consider switching the filters over to spectrapure and set it up like a maxcap.

Are you talking about the RO membrane or all the filters? Are the BRS filters no good?

 

[tkeracer619]

Spectrapure Maxcap DI and 99% Membranes are definitely better. Nothing wrong with the BRS filters unless your source water requires some extra attention.

I'm using dual 99% Spectrapure Membranes and with 230TDS in I get 0TDS before DI.

Also, with a properly setup and maintained system you should be getting 3 to 5 years on a membrane.

 

[jbvdhp]

Spectrapure Maxcap DI and 99% Membranes are definitely better. Nothing wrong with the BRS filters unless your source water requires some extra attention.

I'm using dual 99% Spectrapure Membranes and with 230TDS in I get 0TDS before DI.

Also, with a properly setup and maintained system you should be getting 3 to 5 years on a membrane.

I'm kinda new to RODI systems as I've been buying RO from a local store but for my latest build there was no way I was hauling 250+ gallons of water in my coupe.

I am mistaken with the TDS readings: after RO the TDS is 10, after DI 1 it's 0 and the last cartridge is 0. I thought the meter read line 1 to be after the first DI cartridge.

Is that better?

 

[tkeracer619]

That puts you at 97.5% rejection which is pretty good.

Keep in mind though each time you cut your tds in half you effectively double your DI life.

If you were at say 99% your after RO would be 4tds and DI would last ~2x longer. No biggie and I would't go out and spend cash on it now but when it's time, consider the upgrade. When your DI exhausts consider switching to the maxcap DI setup. They will last longer as well.