RO is along way from the tank

tent boy

New member
I want to hook up my RO unit to a top off in my tank sump (which is under the stand). My RO unit is in the basement and about 35 ft away from my first floor tank. It also has to go up 10' to get to the first floor tank. I would prefer not to get any additional pumps. Is anyone running that much hose out of their RO unit? Will it work?
 
Great thanks. Its going right to top off no separate container.
I gotta chime in.

This isn't a good idea.
Most ATO failures that occur happen when an RO is plumbed directly to the aquarium system. Run RO to a collection container and place the ATO between the collection container and the aquarium.
 
X3 - I run the RO directly to a 5 gallon bucket which then ATO's via a 50ml/min pump which the RKE limits to running 5 minutes on and 5 minutes off.

An ATO failure an be catastrophic to the tank.
 
+4 with Gary.
Another reason to use a collection container is tds creep. Typically tds is higher when ro flow starts. Running larger amounts at a time miinimizes this effect..

It should handle 35 ft pretty well. I tee mine off to a collection container about 20 feet away and to a sink upstairs in the kitchen. I use a 3 gallon jug with a bladder in it made for ro units for the upstairs part.
 
Mine runs about 40 feet in my basement. No issues. I'm filling my washing machine with the RO waste water at this very moment ;)

Great points against auto top off directly from the RO in terms of risk and water quality.
 
I use a 5 gallon salt bucket and fill once a week sometimes twice. In the salt bucket i have a float valve as well in case i forget to turn it off. Many floods prior to putting that in.
 
Our RO setup here at the museum goes up into the ceiling about 15 feet, over about 25 feet then back down another 15 feet and we've never had issues with flow.
 
Based on everyones imput I had planned to go from my RO to a 5 gallon pail with a float switch. Then have a pump in the pail with a hose that goes up thru the floor to the sump. In the sump there would be another float switch. I called BRS to get what I needed. I told him I have a Level -Loc top off for my water change barrel. He said just use the Level-Loc in the sump and run the RO right to that. Usually they give me very good advice but that contradicts what you guys are telling, Yes?
 
BRS claims their Level-Loc will not fail due to the multiple and different sensors to start/stop the water. I would still be more comfortable with the way everyone telling you to do it here. If the Leve-Loc does fail you get continuous water into the sump, if the other method fails its 5 gallons max.

If you do the float valve to a 5 gallon bucket, I would recommend a ball valve on the line too, this way you can stop the RO from refilling the bucket after you start using it for top off. Once the buckets low, open the ball valve and when the buckets full the float will shut it off. This is how I do my top of bucket and salt mixing bucket.
 
When dealing with ro/di units, think about how they work. They are driven from water pressure. Mine operates at 40psi. 35psi keeps your car rolling. I think a unit can handle some head pressure. Good luck.
 
If you do the float valve to a 5 gallon bucket, I would recommend a ball valve on the line too, this way you can stop the RO from refilling the bucket after you start using it for top off. Once the buckets low, open the ball valve and when the buckets full the float will shut it off. This is how I do my top of bucket and salt mixing bucket.

If you DON'T do this, then having the separate storage tank makes the system no safer!

The BRS level-loc is probably one of the safest ATOs on the market today, I wouldn't hesitate to use it "alone" on an RO/DI line. It has the best kind of redundancy - two completely independent methods to shut the water off (solenoid controlled by electric float switch, plus mechanical float valve). If you're extra worried, just plug the solenoid into an appliance timer and set it to run barely long enough to meet your topoff requirements each day. Then, you mitigate the danger of the float valve AND float switch failing bad, and only expose yourself to danger if the solenoid fails, too (it would be a dark day if your float switch, float valve, and solenoid all failed at once).
 
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