ro replacement
- Thread starter mickeyray
- Start date
kdocimo90- 3 stage bottom.. not sure how many gallons per day and city water
and thanks mike
So this stuff is good and will fit? ok.. so I think I'll order.. and get the meter.. so I can test mine.. if I'm still good.. no worries right? maybe I don't need to change the resin yet maybe just the rest. idk. but this replacement top di holder will be easy to switch out with the existing?
oh and I'm still wondering how these testers and their solutions work?
and thanks mike
So this stuff is good and will fit? ok.. so I think I'll order.. and get the meter.. so I can test mine.. if I'm still good.. no worries right? maybe I don't need to change the resin yet maybe just the rest. idk. but this replacement top di holder will be easy to switch out with the existing?
oh and I'm still wondering how these testers and their solutions work?
Kdocimo90
Superior Member
Well you're going to want to know the rating (GDP) of your membrane when the time comes. I'm not sure if it says it on the membrane but if not, you'll just have to pay like 2 or 3 bucks extra for a flow restrictor (little piece of plastic that hooks up to your waste line)
This is what I would get:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/5-micron-purtrex-depth-sediment-filter.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-micron-matrikxr-1.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...i-resin-one-cartridge-refill-1-25-pounds.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/10-clear-refillable-cartridge-for-di-resin.html
The DI is very easy to change. You just open up that big clear canister, take whatever type of cartridge you have in it, and replace it with the new refillable cartridge (after you fill it with the DI resin). You might want to check your RODI first before ordering it, whereas your DI cartridge may be refillable. I dont know how the kent DI cartridges are like, but I doubt they're are refillable.
This is what I would get:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/5-micron-purtrex-depth-sediment-filter.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-micron-matrikxr-1.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...i-resin-one-cartridge-refill-1-25-pounds.html
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/10-clear-refillable-cartridge-for-di-resin.html
The DI is very easy to change. You just open up that big clear canister, take whatever type of cartridge you have in it, and replace it with the new refillable cartridge (after you fill it with the DI resin). You might want to check your RODI first before ordering it, whereas your DI cartridge may be refillable. I dont know how the kent DI cartridges are like, but I doubt they're are refillable.
mikelaubach
New member
Which filter do you have? Manufacturer and model. You can see my filter hanging on the wall here:
The water comes in on the right through a prefilter to remove the sediment.
The next step is one to the left and is a 10 micron carbon block.
The next step is one to the left and is a 5 micron carbon block.
From there, it goes up to the horizontal (white enclosure) RO membrane.
Out of this membrane, it splits.
One side goes to the white tank which is a bladder (storage tank) for the sink drinking water faucet (one of those small ones).
The other RO output goes to the DI cartridge in the lower left.
From there to a bucket as 0 TDS water.
The RO membrane most likely does not need to be changed.
The DI resin may or may not need to be changed. (The color changing type will help alert you that it is being used up, but the best bet is to have a TDS meter of some sort.)
The prefilters (sediment and carbon) might be all you need to change and are fairly cheap and should be changed on some regular basis to keep up the filters efficiency (think air filter on a car).
The water comes in on the right through a prefilter to remove the sediment.
The next step is one to the left and is a 10 micron carbon block.
The next step is one to the left and is a 5 micron carbon block.
From there, it goes up to the horizontal (white enclosure) RO membrane.
Out of this membrane, it splits.
One side goes to the white tank which is a bladder (storage tank) for the sink drinking water faucet (one of those small ones).
The other RO output goes to the DI cartridge in the lower left.
From there to a bucket as 0 TDS water.
The RO membrane most likely does not need to be changed.
The DI resin may or may not need to be changed. (The color changing type will help alert you that it is being used up, but the best bet is to have a TDS meter of some sort.)
The prefilters (sediment and carbon) might be all you need to change and are fairly cheap and should be changed on some regular basis to keep up the filters efficiency (think air filter on a car).
Kdocimo90
Superior Member
you're gonna want to know the rating because the flow restrictor has to correspond with it, i.e. you cant have a 150gpd membrane with a 75gpd flow restrictor.
I honestly would get the TDS meter I recommended. It's dual so you would hook one probe up after the membrane and then one after the DI cartridge. This way you will know what would have to be changed; either the DI resin or the membrane/prefilters.
I honestly would get the TDS meter I recommended. It's dual so you would hook one probe up after the membrane and then one after the DI cartridge. This way you will know what would have to be changed; either the DI resin or the membrane/prefilters.
Kdocimo90
Superior Member
you are good, especially considering you have city water and not well water. I only have 1 carbon cartridge (the exact one that I posted a link to).
mikelaubach
New member
The RO membrane rating matters for when you replace it. If you don't know, the model number of the filter might be on the filter itself somewhere. You can also look at the flow restrictor and that should give you some indication since there are different sizes for each GPD membrane.
TDS meters measure the ability of the water to conduct an electrical charge. This gives an indication of the relative amount of junk in the water as measured in PPM, or parts per million. So basically, a TDS of 3 is 3 parts junk in 1 million parts pure water. We want 0. The water might not be technically pure if there is some contaminant that does not conduct electricity. But for our purposes that should not be an issue since we're drinking the pre-filtered water anyway.
TDS meters measure the ability of the water to conduct an electrical charge. This gives an indication of the relative amount of junk in the water as measured in PPM, or parts per million. So basically, a TDS of 3 is 3 parts junk in 1 million parts pure water. We want 0. The water might not be technically pure if there is some contaminant that does not conduct electricity. But for our purposes that should not be an issue since we're drinking the pre-filtered water anyway.
mikelaubach
New member
The carbon blocks are designed to remove chlorine and other additives.
I would disagree and hold the opposing view, saying city water should have more carbon filters than well water. If anything, I should be replacing a carbon with another sediment since there is no way to add chlorine to well water.
I would disagree and hold the opposing view, saying city water should have more carbon filters than well water. If anything, I should be replacing a carbon with another sediment since there is no way to add chlorine to well water.
Kdocimo90
Superior Member
The carbon blocks are designed to remove chlorine and other additives.
I would disagree and hold the opposing view, saying city water should have more carbon filters than well water. If anything, I should be replacing a carbon with another sediment since there is no way to add chlorine to well water.
Lol you're right. Sorry Mickey I was confusing the carbon block for the sediment. But either way I'm sure you'll be fine. I don't think it will make much of a difference for the rate you'll be needing to change them, but you're better off safe than sorry.
Last edited:
mikelaubach
New member
As KDoc says, you are likely fine with the filter as it comes (with one carbon) at least for now.
I know at the MA house, the city has to send out annual reports on water analysis to see how much of what chemical or compound is in the water. It's kinda nice really, but it is an "averages" approach, and some homes will get more or less of one thing or another. Check to see if you get that, and check the levels of chlorine, etc to see if maybe you should run two carbon blocks.
But again, in all honesty, one carbon is better than no filter at all, right?
I know at the MA house, the city has to send out annual reports on water analysis to see how much of what chemical or compound is in the water. It's kinda nice really, but it is an "averages" approach, and some homes will get more or less of one thing or another. Check to see if you get that, and check the levels of chlorine, etc to see if maybe you should run two carbon blocks.
But again, in all honesty, one carbon is better than no filter at all, right?
Kdocimo90
Superior Member
you will know when its time to change the membrane when measuring the TDS after the membrane but before the DI cartridge. This is why I recommend the dual inline TDS meter I posted earlier. You would have one attached to the hose between the membrane and the DI cartridge, and then one after the DI cartridge.
This will let you know when it is time to change the membrane/prefilters (if the TDS reading is much higher than normal) or the DI resin (if TDS reading after DI cartridge is more than 0).
This will let you know when it is time to change the membrane/prefilters (if the TDS reading is much higher than normal) or the DI resin (if TDS reading after DI cartridge is more than 0).
Similar threads
