The solderless LEDs are different than the typical LEDs that you solder to. If you look at this image you can faintly see wire traces under the black paint:
The upper trace connects to either side of the LED but the lower one goes around the LED and just connects the bottom contacts in each socket to each other. So, if I have the red wire in the upper position on one LED, that same red wire goes into the upper position in the next LED. Doing so you get the + side of one LED going to the - side on the next just like you would on a standard setup. As long as you always keep the same color in that upper position, you connect them all in the correct sequence.
When you get to the end of the string, you add a plug that loops from the top side to the bottom. Now, instead of going through each LED, the current bypasses the LED until it gets back to the first one in the string. This first LED has a "drive jumper" that is basically a single ended jumper wire.
A diagram of this can be found
here.
Here is the video tutorial on how the LEDs are wired:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=j7fwVP61kiM. The third wire is flipped so the black is on top but because it is the same at both connections, the current flows correctly. (I'm picky and would have kept the same color on the same side just to make sure I didn't screw it up).
SO, for my fixture, I get four strings on each fixture. They all have the end plugs on the outer edge and the driver wires in the middle. From there, the wires take a slight detour. Because I am using parallel strings, I need to measure each string to make sure the two are balanced. To do this, I put a 1 ohm resistor in line with each string. By measuring the voltage drop across that resistor, I can use the formula V=IR to get current because R=1ohm. With balancing, you want about the same current (+/1 50mA is what I have seen recommended) on each string. If they are too far off, you find the LED with the highest and lowest resistance and switch them. Continue testing and swapping until you get them balanced.
The other thing I add into the strings are fuses so that if one LED blows it won't take out the other string by dumping all the current into the string that's still working. My plan is to use mount the fuses and resistors between a pair of terminal strips and have the wires from the fixture come in one side and the connections from the drivers on the other.
The drivers I'm using are adjustable internally to set the max output voltage. This in turn limits the current at 100% on the dimming lines. Once that is set, the dimmer is used to back off from 100% to get the color combination I want. It also will let me acclimate the corals by starting at say 30% and working my way up. Eventually I will have an Apex and use the VDM to do dawn and dusk cycles rather than just on and off.
Where I work, there is a full scale electrical fabrication group. The technicians each have work areas with all the goodies needed build just about any hobby project you could dream up. By providing cookies on a regular basis I have enough favors to call in that borrowing a multimeter shouldn't be an issue. Also, the dimming kit needs to be soldered together and I hope to impose on one of them for a soldering iron to take home one weekend. I have a simple multimeter at home but their stuff is of much higher quality.
Once I get everything set up I will post pictures and instructions on how to commission an LED setup. The ones I have seen so far are good but could use with some updating.
