Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

Do I need to worry about maintaining the temperature? Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol...


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Do I need to worry about maintaining the temperature? Or should I just heat it up prior to adding to the tank.. currently the temp is 56 lol...


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Depends on how much water you are changing. With my AWC I swap 7 gallons a day into roughly 160 gallons so I dont heat. When I am doing a large water change however I will heat up the water and use it all. Typicallyy I plan this so that my salt container is down to around 40 gallons and I will heat that and use it all in the water change. I do not heat water and then let it cool.
 
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This is my entry way closet. The hubby let me take it over. Hehehe and he did the plumbing, he's not into fish so I guess he loves me.


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Nice set up

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I plan on using some 55g olive barrels that I received for next to nothing for ro storage on an upcoming build. I can't seem to get them clean enough. There is always a sheen on top of the water after I fill them. Anyone have a recommendation to clean them?
 
I plan on using some 55g olive barrels that I received for next to nothing for ro storage on an upcoming build. I can't seem to get them clean enough. There is always a sheen on top of the water after I fill them. Anyone have a recommendation to clean them?
Have you tried dawn dish soap and heavy rinsing?

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I bet this question had been asked already but after days of reading I'm still unable to find an answer.

What is the recommended pump for a water change station? I've seen a bunch with panworld pumps but with today's technology I'm wondering if there is a better option?

I will need a vertical head pressure of 8' if that helps.

Thanks for the input
 
Are there any specific pumps you would recommend? I’m thinking a DC pump for efficiency...if such a pump would work in this application?
 
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/162297655@N07/28031328569/in/dateposted-public/" title="mixing station 1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4700/28031328569_a41b6972cb_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="mixing station 1"></a>******** async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
One item on my "Upgrade Tank" To Do list was to upgrade my RO/DI system and increase my water supply storage tanks. I had (2) 44 gallon brutes and (2) 55 gallon drums, but I wanted to upgrade to all 55 gallon drums. Also redo the transfer system from my mixing barrel to my storage barrel.
So I upgraded my RO unit to a second RO membrane plumbed in series to increase my daily production from 75 gallons to 150 gallons. Now I know the values are probably lower, but you get my drift. Because of the second membrane, I needed to get a larger Booster Pump. So the Aquatec 8800 is replacing the 6800 I had. That is being used on the 3 stage Di to push water thru. See below. I also put in a Auto Flush valve. I run this in parallel to the manual flush valve. I installed a manual by-pass to bleed off the product that is high in TDS so it doesn't go into my RO water storage barrel. I use a Triple In Line TDS meter to determine when to close the by-pass an open the flow to the RO storage. One meter is on each product line coming out of each membrane, then the 3rd is on the product line of the 3 Stage DI.
I have well water which is high in Co2. This will burn thru DI resin like crazy. So I have to produce RO only water that goes into a 55 gallon drum which gets aerated to de-gas the Co2 before I pump it thru the 3 Stage DI. From there it then goes to either the make up water barrel or the salt mix barrel. Since I do AWC of 4 gallons a day, I can't be mixing salt in the same barrel that I draw the NSW for the daily changes from. So I mix in one barrel, then with a 3-way ball valve, divert the water to the holding barrel.
So here is the set up with added details.

RO Unit. Right to Left - 5 micron pre filter(filter is clean, plastic housing is stained) into the boosting pump, then thru 1 micron final filter, then thru a 1 micron carbon filter. The (2) 75 gallon/day membranes are plumbed in series. Waste from the first is plumbing to the inlet of the second. Then product water from both are sent to the RO barrel for de-gassing.

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RO storage on the left which in turn get pumped thru the 3 stage DI to the salt mix barrel on the right or the fresh water make-up barrel (not shown).

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Salt mixing pump and 3 way ball valve. This makes transfer to the holding barrel a snap! (Tank on right is a friends that is here only temporary. In other words, not my mess of wires!)

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3 Stage DI. Since my well water is high in Co2, I de-gas before I pump it thru the resin. Left is Cation Resin, Middle is Anion, Right is mixed bed. BRS did a great video on why this is a good way to process the RO water.

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Entire RO/DI Unit

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Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

Here is mine. Modeled after others I found in this thread. Still a work in progress.

1" pipe and uniseals.
1.5" half union valves from Lowe's. They were $9 per and have nice big handles on them. I just used adapters on each end.
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I'm still building my new saltwater mixing station. I purchased two 65G tanks from Norwesco. I wanted to keep them off the ground by at least 8" since this is in my basement and there's always the potential to get a few inches of water if the sump or electric fails. I needed something that would easily hold well over 1100 pounds based on the fact that 130gals weighs that much. After some intensive googling, I ran across something called a "dunnage rack". They are used by restaurants to stack heavy bulk items (such as large bags of flour) off the floor. This is the one I bought: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/advance-tabco-dun-2460-60-x-24-x-12-aluminum-dunnage-rack-2000-lb-capacity/109DUN2460.html

If anyone is looking to buy a rack instead of making one from wood, you should consider dunnage racks.
 
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