Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

RODI Res & ATO Res from one rodi

RODI Res & ATO Res from one rodi

How are you all handling the filling of both an RODI reservoir at the mixing station and an ATO reservoir under the tank?

I currently use a Tunze Osmolator from the ATO container into the sump.
I am adding a mixing station in the garage, but I know the Osmilator pump wont pump the distance to the sump from the garage. SO that rules out topping off directly from the RODI res in the garage.

I have ordered a Specrtapure MC-RODI-100-PPLUS which has the level controller built in and includes 2 mag float switches.

Would I just T off the output lines prior to the solenoid valve, and run that leg to a standard float valve in the RODI tank, and the other leg that exits the solenoid to the ATO tank.
Then run remote wires to the ATO tank for the 2 mag float switches?

What would happen if the ATO tank switches triggered the solenoid while the RODI tank in the garage was already filling? WOuld it fill the one with the lowest center of gravity first?
 
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Here's my old station. Leftmost barrel is fitted with a float valve and receives ro/di water. Ball valves and mag 5 allow me to pump water from ro bucket to center bucket and then recirculate. Rightmost barrel is prepared SW storage. Allows me to have 40-80 gallons of SW available at any given time. I also use the same pump to fill my simp.
 
There seems to be a prevalent design that people are using. Can someone explain the design to me?

Is the point of the valves to create different closed loops for different operations? For example, the RO to saltwater transfer.
 
There seems to be a prevalent design that people are using. Can someone explain the design to me?

Is the point of the valves to create different closed loops for different operations? For example, the RO to saltwater transfer.

mine has 8 valves 3 tanks and one pump..

Each take has a Drain Valve going into a Pre pump manifold.
There is also a Valve to gravity drain the tanks to a hose bib.

My pump has a manifold with 4 valves.. one to the top of each tank. With another to direct or bypass water from either of the tanks to my sump .

My tanks are .. RO WATER.. RO/DI WATER.. Mixed salt water.. We have both marine and Tropical tanks..

Hope this helps OHH My Pump is a Danner mag 24 ..
 
mine has 8 valves 3 tanks and one pump..

Each take has a Drain Valve going into a Pre pump manifold.
There is also a Valve to gravity drain the tanks to a hose bib.

My pump has a manifold with 4 valves.. one to the top of each tank. With another to direct or bypass water from either of the tanks to my sump .

My tanks are .. RO WATER.. RO/DI WATER.. Mixed salt water.. We have both marine and Tropical tanks..

Hope this helps OHH My Pump is a Danner mag 24 ..
That sounds exactly like what I want to do. Do you have pictures in this thread or any available to post?

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none that i know of . i will try to get one and post for you..
You're awesome.

Do you use a booster between the RO storage tank and the DI canisters? A pressurized RO tank? That's the main part that I'm having trouble thinking through.

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You're awesome.

Do you use a booster between the RO storage tank and the DI canisters? A pressurized RO tank? That's the main part that I'm having trouble thinking through.

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NO Booster pump. i have 85 psi water pressure and my RO is connected at the main.. NO Pressure tank. You only need that if you are going to plumb your ro system to a spigot .

My Ro/di unit is
1 Pre filter.
1 5 micron
1 1 micoron
2 carbon blocks
Dual Membrane
Dual DI Resin Filters.
I also have a Auto shut off connected to float switch in the first of the 3 tanks There is also a T going off that tank to my ATO Tank. But I completely shut down the COMPLETE RO SYSTEM when i am not making water.. Do not let your ro auto shut off be your ATO....


Hope this helps.. ohh you only need a booster pump if you are not getting enough water pressure for your RO SYSTEM..
 
NO Booster pump. i have 85 psi water pressure and my RO is connected at the main.. NO Pressure tank. You only need that if you are going to plumb your ro system to a spigot .

My Ro/di unit is
1 Pre filter.
1 5 micron
1 1 micoron
2 carbon blocks
Dual Membrane
Dual DI Resin Filters.
I also have a Auto shut off connected to float switch in the first of the 3 tanks There is also a T going off that tank to my ATO Tank. But I completely shut down the COMPLETE RO SYSTEM when i am not making water.. Do not let your ro auto shut off be your ATO....


Hope this helps.. ohh you only need a booster pump if you are not getting enough water pressure for your RO SYSTEM..
So, if I understand, you have a T for the RO to either go to the RO holding tank or through the DI resin?

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So, if I understand, you have a T for the RO to either go to the RO holding tank or through the DI resin?

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Yes .. Before the Di canisters there is a T it goes to a float switch in top of the Ro water tank.. Then after the Di canisters there is hose that goes to the ro/di tank and to my Ato each also have a simple float switch close to the top..

the Auto shut off on the whole system will only work once all the tanks are full.. When it works.:debi:
 
Yes .. Before the Di canisters there is a T it goes to a float switch in top of the Ro water tank.. Then after the Di canisters there is hose that goes to the ro/di tank and to my Ato each also have a simple float switch close to the top..

the Auto shut off on the whole system will only work once all the tanks are full.. When it works.:debi:
Got it! Thanks a ton. That's the part that I couldn't quite wrap my head around. Of course it's way easier than I was making it in my mind.

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This is a mixing , and it also a water change , and put back station


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Our 150 is auto , the two values on the left is so that I can also make five gl for our bio cube water change and a value for RODI top off for the bio cube, two values mix , two values take out % off water change from the 150 and two values put it back in.


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Has anyone ever tried to cycle the waste water back through the ro/di system a second time to avoid having so much excess water? Maybe by using a booster pump connected to a drain or something? I like the idea of making and mixing my own water but the amount of wastewater that gets produced is problematic, I just don't want to store that much water waiting to water plants and whatnot so it doesn't just go down a drain. Am I being unrealistic with this idea or has someone actually done it. I searched but didn't see a thread.
 
It is usually done with dual membranes.
Think about a 2/1 water ratio instead of 4/1.
This is done by a kit sold by Spectrapure & most likely others here on RC.
 
It is usually done with dual membranes.
Think about a 2/1 water ratio instead of 4/1.
This is done by a kit sold by Spectrapure & most likely others here on RC.

Thanks for the response. I've seen those setups with the dual membranes and if I go that route I'm sure that's what I will buy. What I'm really wondering though, is if anyone has incorporated a pump or some other method to actually take the wastewater from a storage tank and put it back through the system again to try and use up as much of the wastewater as possible. That might be too much trouble but if anyone has attempted it I'd love to hear about how they did it and whether the results were worth it.
 
Thanks for the response. I've seen those setups with the dual membranes and if I go that route I'm sure that's what I will buy. What I'm really wondering though, is if anyone has incorporated a pump or some other method to actually take the wastewater from a storage tank and put it back through the system again to try and use up as much of the wastewater as possible. That might be too much trouble but if anyone has attempted it I'd love to hear about how they did it and whether the results were worth it.

I would say that if you measure the TDS from your waste water and compare it to your tap water, that would tell you if it's really worth your while. If it's higher from the waste line, than probably direct it off into your yard so it's not just running down your drain.
 
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