davocean
Active member
Pretty much
SC Aquariums Owners Thread
- Thread starter OceanWolf
- Start date
Pretty much
soulpatch
New member
I did not forget about you but I had a massive migraine last night and after work just went to bed. As soon as the little one goes down tonight I will go downstairs and snap a few pics
Maybe I'm headed in the right direction?
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
That pipe with the cap shouldn't go there. It doesn't do anything from what I see. You want a fully open pip just above the waterline in the overflow, not that thing.
acer
New member
Ahhh.. Yes that makes more sense. Ok 2.5 inches is easier to design around than 4 or5 inches. I am hoping the recess is less than an inch, thinking of a 4.5 inch deep X 48 long x 6 tall internal overflow box with the top of the weir about 1/2 inch below the eurobrace with 4 X 60mm holes . that leaves me a 2 inch wide gap to slide the bulkhead s into place and to deal with any livestock or debris that may get into the internal box. I was hoping to have a very thin internal box, but the eurobrace makes that impossible.
soulpatch
New member
If you are having them build it why not had them build a lid for it as well? Similar to how the synergy reef overflow is. That way you have water that can get in but the overflow lid would negate the risk to fish getting sucked in. That way you could go thinner. You are doing a small external box as well I assume for the drains so have them install the connecting bulkheads before they ship it out.
acer
New member
Nope they r just taking out the standard overflow and plugging the bottom holes. Then drilling the rear holes. I am either going to use a glass internal coast to coast or have someone make the 48 inch internal acrylic overflow, either way the weir will not have teeth , but yes a cover is a good idea.
dreaddinit
New member
Thanks guys. I'm getting a better grasp on this thing and realized that the pipe with the cap is my overflow which is entirely to short. I bought all new plumbing and will be putting that on soon. If I paint the plumbing red with the fusion spray paint, does it matter, after it cures if the PVC glue touches it? It won't melt it or stop the glue from setting properly will it?
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
acer
New member
So, had to come up with a different plan:
Due to the Eurobrace overlaping/extending 2.5 inches into the aquarium and being recessed about 1/2 an inch from the top I had to change things because an acrylic internal "ghost" thin overflow box cant work because the top access of the internal overflow box is blocked by the Eurobrace - so I would not be able to properly install any bulkheads between the internal and external overflow boxes.
New plan:
1) SCA drills the rear of the aquarium with 4 x 60 mm holes that will accommodate 4 1.5 inch schedule 40 bulkheads (exact placement to be determined) and ships tank and canopy and stand.
2) I have a local or someone else make a custom external Bean animal Acrylic external overflow box (30"long x 5"wide x 6"deep) with holes for "bean animal " plumbing in the bottom = one for the true siphon drain (1 inch) and one for the trickle non siphon drain (1 inch) and for the emergency drain (1.5 inch).
3) I will have to drill the 4 x 60 mm holes myself in the front panel of the external overflow box to accommodate the 4 x 1.5 inch bulkheads going from the rear of the tank to the external overflow box to insure the holes will be aligned properly to the holes drilled by SCA aquariums.
4) I then install the external overflow box and the bulkheads on the rear panel of the aquarium making sure the bulkheads do not leak between the tank and the external overflow box , and also testing the 3 bulkheads for the "Bean Animal" plumbing as well.
5) After external overflow box is secured and tested- then I install the 2 sided glass (1/2 inch thick) internal coast to coast overflow pieces/panels = bottom panel (60" long x 2.0 inches wide) secured to rear panel and sides of the aquarium 5.75 inches below the euro-brace. The front panel (6.0 inches tall x 60 inches long) will be secured to the 1/2 inch front edge of the bottom panel and the sides of the aquarium creating a 1/4 inch gap "overflow" between the Euro-brace and the front panel of the glass internal overflow.
6) retest to insure the internal glass panels are water tight and the overflow is working as planned.
The 1/4 inch gap or overflow being 60 inches long should have a very thin layer of water going over it. Therefore, it should be very quiet and able to accommodate over 1000 GPH flow. Also, the Euro-brace will act as a "cover" for the internal coast to coast overflow- preventing any fish from getting in.
This way the top access wont matter because the bulkheads will already be in place and tested. The internal overflow will only have a 60 inch long x 2.5 inch deep x 6.25 inch high "footprint" into the aquarium.
IF anybody determines any issues with the plan , please - please do not hesitate to chime in - 2 heads are better than one -I always say.
Due to the Eurobrace overlaping/extending 2.5 inches into the aquarium and being recessed about 1/2 an inch from the top I had to change things because an acrylic internal "ghost" thin overflow box cant work because the top access of the internal overflow box is blocked by the Eurobrace - so I would not be able to properly install any bulkheads between the internal and external overflow boxes.
New plan:
1) SCA drills the rear of the aquarium with 4 x 60 mm holes that will accommodate 4 1.5 inch schedule 40 bulkheads (exact placement to be determined) and ships tank and canopy and stand.
2) I have a local or someone else make a custom external Bean animal Acrylic external overflow box (30"long x 5"wide x 6"deep) with holes for "bean animal " plumbing in the bottom = one for the true siphon drain (1 inch) and one for the trickle non siphon drain (1 inch) and for the emergency drain (1.5 inch).
3) I will have to drill the 4 x 60 mm holes myself in the front panel of the external overflow box to accommodate the 4 x 1.5 inch bulkheads going from the rear of the tank to the external overflow box to insure the holes will be aligned properly to the holes drilled by SCA aquariums.
4) I then install the external overflow box and the bulkheads on the rear panel of the aquarium making sure the bulkheads do not leak between the tank and the external overflow box , and also testing the 3 bulkheads for the "Bean Animal" plumbing as well.
5) After external overflow box is secured and tested- then I install the 2 sided glass (1/2 inch thick) internal coast to coast overflow pieces/panels = bottom panel (60" long x 2.0 inches wide) secured to rear panel and sides of the aquarium 5.75 inches below the euro-brace. The front panel (6.0 inches tall x 60 inches long) will be secured to the 1/2 inch front edge of the bottom panel and the sides of the aquarium creating a 1/4 inch gap "overflow" between the Euro-brace and the front panel of the glass internal overflow.
6) retest to insure the internal glass panels are water tight and the overflow is working as planned.
The 1/4 inch gap or overflow being 60 inches long should have a very thin layer of water going over it. Therefore, it should be very quiet and able to accommodate over 1000 GPH flow. Also, the Euro-brace will act as a "cover" for the internal coast to coast overflow- preventing any fish from getting in.
This way the top access wont matter because the bulkheads will already be in place and tested. The internal overflow will only have a 60 inch long x 2.5 inch deep x 6.25 inch high "footprint" into the aquarium.
IF anybody determines any issues with the plan , please - please do not hesitate to chime in - 2 heads are better than one -I always say.
Last edited:
soulpatch
New member
I dont get why you cant have a internal box as you wished. Just have them make it similar to a synergy with the internal not being affixed to the back glass but via tightening bulkheads. You could have the long inner unit loose and you pop the bulkheads in then put them through the holes in the tank. You wouldnt need to reach into the inner box to install anything as you would tighten the nut on the outside box.
acer
New member
Well- that is what I thought, but the Acrylic guys I am talking to want to have an Acrylic internal box that puts the horizontal slots (were the water goes into the internal overflow box) over 1 inch below the top of their box - which makes the water level over an inch below the recessed Eurobrace- and that is a full inch below the actual top of the tank -so that means the visual water level will be over 2 -2.5 inches below the top of the tank. That wont work as that is about 15 gallons of water - wasting less than 10 gallons maybe necessary = 1- 1.5 inches below the top of the tank. But I think 10% of the tank volume wasted is not reasonable.
I am in contact with Taylor over at Exotic - so I am hopeful we can work out a solution.
I am in contact with Taylor over at Exotic - so I am hopeful we can work out a solution.
Last edited:
acer
New member
Thanks I will check them out- I think I checked reef savvy- only do 18 inches long - maybe I am getting them confused with someone else. I will recheck. Over at SCA facebook page there is someone complaining about this exact issue- his tank has the water level 2.5 inches below the top of the tank.
soulpatch
New member
The stock synergy and reef savvy units are only 18 inches long but they will custom whatever for you. I didnt see anyone complaining about the water level on the SC FB page. I am on it quite a bit and post frequently in it.
Water level in my tank is perhaps 1/4 - 1/2 inch from the bracing. I cant see a lip with the canopy on.
Water level in my tank is perhaps 1/4 - 1/2 inch from the bracing. I cant see a lip with the canopy on.
acer
New member
Yes that is what I am going for- exactly.
Here is the SCA facebook comments /posts I am talking about :
Victor Hap
Victor Hap I'm surprised no one ever said anything about how low the waterline is in the tank, I wish it was an inch higher
Like · Reply · April 7 at 7:27pm
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey how low is it?
Like · Reply · 16 hrs
Victor Hap
Victor Hap Ted Bailey 2.5" from the top
Like · Reply · 8 hrs
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey yes- That is what I am trying to figure out how to avoid this exact thing . Why buy a 150 when the top 2.5 inches is not usable? That is a lot of wasted tank space = over 15 gallons.
Like · Reply · 1 hr
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey That is 10% of the total tank volume - not good IMO.
Like · Reply · 1 hr
Victor Hap
Victor Hap That is slightly over 10%, it's due to the eurobracing being inset 1/2" and then another ~1/2" for the glass, bringing the top of the overflow down. The tank looks beautiful but the inset of the eurobracing is hurting it.
I put in a custom bid to Synergy. Savvy doesn't do custom overflows - they suggested I use more than one of their stock units.
Here is the SCA facebook comments /posts I am talking about :
Victor Hap
Victor Hap I'm surprised no one ever said anything about how low the waterline is in the tank, I wish it was an inch higher
Like · Reply · April 7 at 7:27pm
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey how low is it?
Like · Reply · 16 hrs
Victor Hap
Victor Hap Ted Bailey 2.5" from the top
Like · Reply · 8 hrs
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey yes- That is what I am trying to figure out how to avoid this exact thing . Why buy a 150 when the top 2.5 inches is not usable? That is a lot of wasted tank space = over 15 gallons.
Like · Reply · 1 hr
Ted Bailey
Ted Bailey That is 10% of the total tank volume - not good IMO.
Like · Reply · 1 hr
Victor Hap
Victor Hap That is slightly over 10%, it's due to the eurobracing being inset 1/2" and then another ~1/2" for the glass, bringing the top of the overflow down. The tank looks beautiful but the inset of the eurobracing is hurting it.
I put in a custom bid to Synergy. Savvy doesn't do custom overflows - they suggested I use more than one of their stock units.
Similar threads
