Scythanith
Premium Member
Scott's 270 aka Project Mayhem
- Thread starter Scythanith
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Scythanith
Premium Member
I plumbed in my RODI line to the ATO pail but don't want to connect it quite yet. I am looking for a good solenoid valve that my Profilux can control to only open the valve once every 12 hours for a preset amount of time. This will allow the RODI to run the most efficiently, plus it will auto shut off the prevent over filling. Aside from the solenoid I will have the typical RODI float valve in the pail as well for a mechanical dummy backup. ANy recommendations for the solenoid valve? I look at the tunze one from BRS, it looks good but the metal body concerns me a bit since this is the purified water side.
Cheers,
Scott
Cheers,
Scott
dave.m
Active member
Here's an alternative.
I have used the metal-bodied ones and they are okay as long as you keep them dry. They do tend to get hot, though.
Dave.M
I have used the metal-bodied ones and they are okay as long as you keep them dry. They do tend to get hot, though.
Dave.M
Scythanith
Premium Member
Thanks Dave! I will order that if this one doesn't hack it. 1/4" HD normal closed
Scythanith
Premium Member
Hi Dave, I looked a little closer at the one you posted and I have an ASOV on my RODI system already. When my float valve in my brute tub closes the RODI system shuts off (no waste water being produced). Does the item you posted do anything different than what I described? I see that it says solenoid but what electronically triggers the solenoid to open/close? Is it an electronic float valve? I hate that I can't convey tone haahaa, that last couple sentences sounds grumpy 
I am specifically looking for a mechanical means of stopping water from running into my ATO pail even if the mechanical float valve isn't shut, in turn signalling the ASOV on the RODI to close. My logic is such. My pail drops ~3g a day, so instead of having the RODI system come on in small spurts which is inefficient for the RO membrane I'd have a solenoid close the flow of RODI water off to the pail for the majority of the day. Once the pail had drained and the predetermined time , let's say 5pm for the heck of it came around the solenoid valve would be signalled to open by the profilux and allow the pail to refill it's ~3g all at once. I'd time how long that takes for the pail to fill and program that time into the profilux as another failsafe to prevent over filling of the pail, or constant running into the reef system itself. So I'd have the programmed solenoid valve as my primary delivery method, then the mechanical float valve as the back up. I may also install a level sensor in the ATO pail that could trigger a shut off to the profilux if the first two systems failed.
I can already tell I am going to need an expansion box for my profilux. I have all of the level sensor ports used already and I know where I will need more.
Sorry for the long article Dave, but does that make sense?
I am specifically looking for a mechanical means of stopping water from running into my ATO pail even if the mechanical float valve isn't shut, in turn signalling the ASOV on the RODI to close. My logic is such. My pail drops ~3g a day, so instead of having the RODI system come on in small spurts which is inefficient for the RO membrane I'd have a solenoid close the flow of RODI water off to the pail for the majority of the day. Once the pail had drained and the predetermined time , let's say 5pm for the heck of it came around the solenoid valve would be signalled to open by the profilux and allow the pail to refill it's ~3g all at once. I'd time how long that takes for the pail to fill and program that time into the profilux as another failsafe to prevent over filling of the pail, or constant running into the reef system itself. So I'd have the programmed solenoid valve as my primary delivery method, then the mechanical float valve as the back up. I may also install a level sensor in the ATO pail that could trigger a shut off to the profilux if the first two systems failed.
I can already tell I am going to need an expansion box for my profilux. I have all of the level sensor ports used already and I know where I will need more.
Sorry for the long article Dave, but does that make sense?
Rotknee
Member
Nice pics Scott!
Have you considered taking advantage of the redundancies and native Profilux fail safes? I am a fan of “less is more” and you could have a simple pump connected to your powerbar that would only turn on during a certain period of time at a specific time of day. The advantage would be that you could monitor this function remotely via your controller and would only need a small pump and ATO reservoir to make it all work as you already have everything else.
Per the example (I don’t have mine set up like this. Mine functions as a regular ATO using the GHL optical sensor and is active 24 hours a day to provide constant water levels) the pump will only run for a max of 5 seconds. You can adjust this as you set fit and can also specify when you want the pump to come on using the “Timer” (screen not shown) function. This way, your only point of failure is your pump.
Have you considered taking advantage of the redundancies and native Profilux fail safes? I am a fan of “less is more” and you could have a simple pump connected to your powerbar that would only turn on during a certain period of time at a specific time of day. The advantage would be that you could monitor this function remotely via your controller and would only need a small pump and ATO reservoir to make it all work as you already have everything else.
Per the example (I don’t have mine set up like this. Mine functions as a regular ATO using the GHL optical sensor and is active 24 hours a day to provide constant water levels) the pump will only run for a max of 5 seconds. You can adjust this as you set fit and can also specify when you want the pump to come on using the “Timer” (screen not shown) function. This way, your only point of failure is your pump.
Scythanith
Premium Member
Thanks Rodney. I will definitely use the Profilux software when it comes to the actual RODI top off into the tank. All of this is just to get the RODI into the pail for the ATO to utilize As it sits now I will have essentially what you just described, but instead of a pump plugged into the power bar it will be a solenoid The solenoid will only open at set times and for set durations. Plus, if it fails open, I have the float valve in the ATO pail as a back up.
As it sits now I will have essentially what you just described, but instead of a pump plugged into the power bar it will be a solenoid The solenoid will only open at set times and for set durations. Plus, if it fails open, I have the float valve in the ATO pail as a back up.
Scythanith
Premium Member
And I really appreciate the suggestions! I know there are many people on the forum that have already tried certain ways and know their weaknesses, and it would be foolish of me not to take their knowledge when offered
It's so tough to portray how I'd like my system to run without the person being here to see the setup. Pictures and drawings can only go so far.Honestly though Dave, thank you for your time and opinions!
dave.m
Active member
No problem. You are basically setting up your ATO the same as the last tank I set up in a hospital.
I had the RO/DI on a timed power circuit going to a solenoid that was also on a timed power circuit. I had it balanced out to produce no more than ten gallons of RO/DI into the ATO reservoir per day.
The ATO reservoir had a float valve. I have learned to only use float valves in RO/DI water - NEVER in saltwater as they are guaranteed to choke up on you when you are a million miles away.
Then I had a small pump that was on a timed power circuit that would only come on for a set number of hours per day to move water from the ATO reservoir to the sump.
Because I couldn't be there to watch the tank I had to keep the ATO as restricted as possible to minimize the amount of damage it might possibly do.
Make sure you account for backflow from your reservoir pump. There are so many gotcha's lying in wait for you when you set one of these systems up.
I'll get back to you on the solenoid when I get a response from MOPS.
Dave.M
I had the RO/DI on a timed power circuit going to a solenoid that was also on a timed power circuit. I had it balanced out to produce no more than ten gallons of RO/DI into the ATO reservoir per day.
The ATO reservoir had a float valve. I have learned to only use float valves in RO/DI water - NEVER in saltwater as they are guaranteed to choke up on you when you are a million miles away.
Then I had a small pump that was on a timed power circuit that would only come on for a set number of hours per day to move water from the ATO reservoir to the sump.
Because I couldn't be there to watch the tank I had to keep the ATO as restricted as possible to minimize the amount of damage it might possibly do.
Make sure you account for backflow from your reservoir pump. There are so many gotcha's lying in wait for you when you set one of these systems up.
I'll get back to you on the solenoid when I get a response from MOPS.
Dave.M
Scythanith
Premium Member
I picked up a new Indo yellow wall hammer and a splatter paint chalice today. I will try to get some pictures of it before I take off to work. Also, I have been dosing Mg like a madman but haven't been able to get it over 1275 on my Salifert test kit and the LFS tested it at 1315 and 1300, tested back to back. Should I be happy with my numbers? I have added over 4 litters of Mg additive in the last week and it raised my numbers ~50 ppm but it seems topped out now.
Rotknee
Member
Looking forward to pics of the hammer. I lucked out and got a very nice yellow hammer recently. It seemingly glows under my dawn and dusk settings with the Mitras.
Have you used the BRS magnesium calculator? I know it takes a LOT of Mg to raise your levels even a little. When treating bryopsis a few months ago it took >6L to raise my levels from 1350 to 1800ppm.
Have you used the BRS magnesium calculator? I know it takes a LOT of Mg to raise your levels even a little. When treating bryopsis a few months ago it took >6L to raise my levels from 1350 to 1800ppm.
Scythanith
Premium Member
The rep for Tropic Marin in Canada said that I am now in the good zone with 1300ppm of Mg so I am going to start the regular dosing program. I am waiting for Avast Marine to get more of their short 5l dosing containers in stock. Right now I am mixing 1g jugs, so they run out a little quicker than I'd like.
I checked out the calculator, it says I need 780g of Mg salts to raise from 1275 to 1350. That's almost 2 pounds haahaa! I know I'm in the ballpark now so I am going to use the ™ system exclusively to give it a fair chance. I figure 6 months should be a fair period
I checked out the calculator, it says I need 780g of Mg salts to raise from 1275 to 1350. That's almost 2 pounds haahaa! I know I'm in the ballpark now so I am going to use the ™ system exclusively to give it a fair chance. I figure 6 months should be a fair period
Scythanith
Premium Member
I was messing around with some extension tubes, my teleconverter and a 105mm macro and a quick test resulted in this:
The polyps show a weird irradiance pattern in anything light blue/white. I tried to get rid of it in editing but I couldn't for the life of me. I honestly think it has something to do with the LED's, but I have nothing to back that up. If that's the case I may have a secondary light rig that I turn on for pictures, and I'll shut off the LED's during that time. I have a couple IceCap 660 ballasts that I could set some T5's up with. Plus I didn't shut off the circ. pumps so there was some movement in the polyps that didn't help.
I get home in less than a week and I can see how things are doing
The polyps show a weird irradiance pattern in anything light blue/white. I tried to get rid of it in editing but I couldn't for the life of me. I honestly think it has something to do with the LED's, but I have nothing to back that up. If that's the case I may have a secondary light rig that I turn on for pictures, and I'll shut off the LED's during that time. I have a couple IceCap 660 ballasts that I could set some T5's up with. Plus I didn't shut off the circ. pumps so there was some movement in the polyps that didn't help.
I get home in less than a week and I can see how things are doing
Scythanith
Premium Member
I removed my long spine urchin from the tank about 2 weeks ago and I must say my corals were doing much better before I left for work. The urchin was chewing little section off of the LPS. I believe it was the cause of death for three of my hammers. Just an FYI for people that ready this
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
Man that is a nice closeup on that monti.
Scythanith
Premium Member
Thanks everyone! The whole basement is really coming together now. We have the games table and light hung and are just waiting for our couch to show up. Thanks Sammys, I am still reeling for the last 3 hammer corals I lost to the urchin. Sonic, everything looks much better without the urchin in the tank! Newbie, I'm not happy with the monti photo, the chromatic aberration is driving me nuts! I like the level of magnification though, and the detail on the skin, but the polyps are bugging me How's your tank doing? Last time I read your thread it seemed Murphy was visiting you frequently 
I hope things are going better for you!
My laundry list of things to do when I get home:
Set up AWC and ATO through profilux
Set up water change and reservoir area and run some piping through the ceiling to the sump
Maybe get a webcam running
How's your tank doing? Last time I read your thread it seemed Murphy was visiting you frequently I hope things are going better for you!My laundry list of things to do when I get home:
Set up AWC and ATO through profilux
Set up water change and reservoir area and run some piping through the ceiling to the sump
Maybe get a webcam running
