SeanT 's 300 gallon Cube-esque project.

[AcroSteve]

The only ones I have are for surface use.

 

[rpeeples]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12968882#post12968882 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SeanT
http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/...962f7&osCsid=41a0c0d41d7674c6c97e8dfc9d9962f7


Its the last one, Version 14.


http://www.oceansmotions.com/revv14.htm

Sean, are you planning to attach these to the bulkheads within the bottom of your tank via your closed loop? Will they be visable looking into your tank?

Any updates on your tank delivery or has it been delivered?

Great thread....tagging along.

 

[rpeeples]

Any updates?

 

[AcroSteve]

Sean, Back to your stand...


I came across this thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1169964

 

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12858210#post12858210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SeanT
Here are pictures of my "Tower O' Power" closed loop engine.

Things are really coming along nicely. I have a suggestion regarding your plumbing shown above. It would be to your advantage to place a "T" between the 8-way and the vertical true union ball valve. You WILL, at some point, need to drain the closed loop plumbing in order to service the 8-way's drum. If you leave it as it is, when you need to get to the 8-way, the procedure will be as follows:

1. Close all of the ball valves on the 8-way outlets
2. Close both ball valves on the Tunze pump's intake and return
3. When opening the top of the 8-way, make sure you have a towel with you because the isolated water between the valves will spill out of the top. This isn't a HUGE deal, but here's how you can keep things dry:

Utilizing a "T" with a ball valve at the end of it, you can drain the water that becomes isolated between the other ball valves after completing steps 1. and 2. Sure, a towel is probably cheaper than a "T" and a ball valve, but think of the long term savings in laundry detergent! And you won't need an expensive TUBV, a simple ball valve will do just fine.

 

[SeanT]

Sorry for the tardiness on updates, not much has been going on until the last few days.

rpeeples,
The omni-nozzles will all be on the bottom attached to the closed loop.

 

[SeanT]

Dudester,

Great minds think alike.
I planned a "T" in the plumbing from the beginning.
But instead of on top of the pump it will be between the intake of the pump and intake ballvalve.

That way gravity will drain the water out completely.

Sean

 

[SeanT]

I got around to drilling the top of the tank stand today to acomodate the bulkheads in the closed loop.

 

[SeanT]

Forgot to mention, that is a 4.5" hole saw.

I wanted to make sure I had room to effectively grip the bulkheads nut when tightening it.

 

[spsfreak]

Kewl, can't wait to see some more.

 

[SeanT]

Thanks Matt.

 

[SeanT]

I am thiking of a way to lower my overflow teeth a bit.
They are 1.5" and I would like them 2 - 2.5" in length.

Any ideas?

 

[maxxII]

I'm sure there are other ways, but offhand....


I'd say mark how far you want to go down and either build a jig or mark the line you want to follow down and either use a router or go real slow with a dremel and a sanding bit.

Slow to cut down on friction which will melt the overflow teeth.

Nick

 

[Jar*Head]

You want to do something like this?

You can use the dremel and turbine bit to cut it. Make sure you take your time or else, you will ended up like mine

 

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13089962#post13089962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SeanT
Dudester,

Great minds think alike.
I planned a "T" in the plumbing from the beginning.
But instead of on top of the pump it will be between the intake of the pump and intake ballvalve.

That way gravity will drain the water out completely.

Sean

OK, so you're going to put the "T" horizontally at the pump's intake? That's a great idea for drainage, except that the pump will probably be at ground level. How will you collect the water that drains out of the system? That's why I prefer to put the "T" higher up, so I can just put a bucket underneath to catch the water.

 

[fewskillz]

Sean, looks like you're making pretty good progress.

If you ever need an extra set of hands shoot me a PM. I'm usually pretty bored on week nights and weekend days. The build process is my favorite part of the hobby, so I don't mind helping with anything, even the dirty or heavy stuff. Plumbing is fun too.

Let me know,
-Chris

 

[jsc0787]

How loud is that oceans motion valve when switching? Is it detectable from outside a closed stand?

 

[Dudester]

You can't hear the drum of the OM turn, not at all.

 

[SeanT]

The hood build begins today!

 

[stunreefer]

Nice!! Im lovin' your build Sean, cant wait to see it up and running.

I scooped up my Profilux from Todd last week and have started my road into the automation world. The most automated I've ever been prior was a gravity fed drip line ATO, lol!

I saw some pics of the new chillers over there too, those things look pretty cool. Im excited for when they come out, and interested to see how you like yours.

Keep up the great work, and GL with the canopy!


On another note, something I wanted to ask you about rock cooking. Im going to be bringing in a fair share of "dry" LR, like marco rocks or Eco-Rox, and was planning on cooking them in just RO/DI water. Im planning on still doing water changes and swishing them and what not, but figuired I wouldn't have to use salt water since they are not live. I would plan on adding the cooked dry rock to my tank after a month or so, and add some cooked "live" LR (that had been cooked seperately in SW) to cycle the tank. Curious as to what your thoughts are?