Should Cipro be used on all new anemones? (going into a nem filled tank)

[m0nkie]

Hello nem experts! I have a question on how to QT future anemones. My tank already has 3 Haddoni and 2 BTAs. I want to QT all new incoming anemones so I don't risk losing my current ones.

Should I cipro all new nems to kill all the bacteria? Or should I only monitor and wait for it to naturally exchange water? assuming it is healthy looking already. And how long should anemone QT be?

thanks

 

[davocean]

I would QT for sure, but I would not treat unless I saw signs of needing it, and when they need it those signs are very obvious.

 

[ThRoewer]

QT for a few weeks and if it's not getting sick you can move it to its final tank.

I would reserve Cipro only for sick anemones.

 

[m0nkie]

ok so no medication for the QT weeks. Should I be actively changing water so none of the water in his system remains in QT?

 

[ThRoewer]

You only treat it when it's sick (deflating, mouth wide open,...)

When I get a new anemone I place it into a bucket an drip acclimate it to the quarantine tank water over about an hour and then transfer the anemone without water to the QT. This goes actually best if you place a ceramic plate into the bucket first and then let the anemone attach to it during acclimatization.
I would also add a small air operated skimmer into the QT (turn it off when you have to treat). This is not just to remove waste but also to saturate the water with oxygen.
Ideally you also provide the best light you have available.

For the observation phase I would only change the water when it gets cloudy. I have a gig in a 10 gallon tank where I do water changes once in a blue moon and it does fine.

When you have to treat it you will gave to do aggressive water changes, Ideally 100%. That's why I usually prefer 5 or 10 gallon tanks.
I use water from my main tank for the QT/HT as it is always the right salinity and properly aged. Also my corals need new water more than the anemone.

 

[ca1ore]

I would QT for sure, but I would not treat unless I saw signs of needing it, and when they need it those signs are very obvious.

Agreed, though treat as soon as symptoms present - don't delay.

 

[davocean]

^^ Agree to that as well, first sign of deflation should be treated immediately.

 

[bkztrini465]

Just to clarify, by deflating you mean an anemone that has that "flat" and lifeless look? Not simply shrinking list a normal anemone would at night, correct?

 

[davocean]

Just to clarify, by deflating you mean an anemone that has that "flat" and lifeless look? Not simply shrinking list a normal anemone would at night, correct?

Exactly, and yes I should have clarified that, normal to close up at night, but in day when lights are on tents should be full, not like shriveled flat linguine.

 

[bkztrini465]

Exactly, and yes I should have clarified that, normal to close up at night, but in day when lights are on tents should be full, not like shriveled flat linguine.

Thanks! That helps.

 

[m0nkie]

I thought new nems often try to purge out its existing water in new environment. So i always thought looking flat ocassional for first day or two is ok.

I guess i will start treating on first sign of deflating

 

[davocean]

Any purge like that should just look like it's pooping

 

[CoralsAddiction]

I'd be cautious about treating Haddoni and BTAs proactively. They are not in the same category as gigs or even mags when it comes to infections. I've seen more healthy Haddonis than sick ones for sale statistically speaking. For gigs and mags quite the opposite is the case. In conclusion, a more hands off approach is probably better for Haddoni and BTAs than being proactive.

 

[taylor t]

For me, BTA and haddoni I would not treat unless showed signs of sickness. As for a gig, I've treated every gig I have. I would not give a second thought. IF, I was to add another, I would FOR SURE treat EVERY gig I added to my system, sign or no sign. But that's JMO/JME.

 

[akida]

Regarding the drip acclimation of anemones and livestock, I've concluded it to cause much more stress on them then just placing in the tank and letting them acclimate to the environment themselves. I never drip acclimate anything to be honest anymore, takes WAY too long and causes more stress on livestock. I use to lose fish all the time to this method. Now I rarely acclimate especially if the salinity is within .02 of my tank. If I need to raise it up, I'll cup acclimate but rarely even do that anymore. I haven't lost any of my livestock with my method. Went off topic here so sorry M0nkie!

 

[m0nkie]

Not a problem. I heard similar comments too. Told me not to drip bta and just place it right in. I drip my carpets still but i keep the box inside the sump to keep temp stable. Im considering not dripping btas anymore.

 

[Indymann99]

Regarding the drip acclimation of anemones and livestock, I've concluded it to cause much more stress on them then just placing in the tank and letting them acclimate to the environment themselves. I never drip acclimate anything to be honest anymore, takes WAY too long and causes more stress on livestock. I use to lose fish all the time to this method. Now I rarely acclimate especially if the salinity is within .02 of my tank. If I need to raise it up, I'll cup acclimate but rarely even do that anymore. I haven't lost any of my livestock with my method. Went off topic here so sorry M0nkie!

You mean place in QT tank right?

 

[ThRoewer]

Regarding the drip acclimation of anemones and livestock, I've concluded it to cause much more stress on them then just placing in the tank and letting them acclimate to the environment themselves. I never drip acclimate anything to be honest anymore, takes WAY too long and causes more stress on livestock. I use to lose fish all the time to this method. Now I rarely acclimate especially if the salinity is within .02 of my tank. If I need to raise it up, I'll cup acclimate but rarely even do that anymore. I haven't lost any of my livestock with my method. Went off topic here so sorry M0nkie!

Fish and corals may handle that, but you can kill shrimps really quick that way. I did kill plenty that way in my beginner days.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

You mean place in QT tank right?

That is a beautiful RBTA you have there :thumbsup:

 

[akida]

Fish and corals may handle that, but you can kill shrimps really quick that way. I did kill plenty that way in my beginner days.

I've never lost 1 invert with my method. Again, if the salinity isn't within .02 of my tank I cup acclimate to speed the process up. Not everyone agrees with this and I understand but this is my experience. Drip acclimation places to much stress of livestock IME.