This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=14058977#post14058977
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Doh!
Split threads are such a PITA.
Split threads are such a PITA.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
LoneRanger:
You asked how to support the standpipes in your setup
Here is the easiest way to do it. The velcro straps are attached to the brackets with epoxy (screws could be used instead).
Savko, and others also sell plumbing support brackets that could be fitted to a wood extension.
You asked how to support the standpipes in your setup
Here is the easiest way to do it. The velcro straps are attached to the brackets with epoxy (screws could be used instead).
Savko, and others also sell plumbing support brackets that could be fitted to a wood extension.
tonyespinoza
Premium Member
supporting gate valves...
supporting gate valves...
hi beananimal -
happy new year!
i just got my spears gate valves in from Bulk Reef Supply and realized that they're quit heavy... The holes were drilled in the bottom of my external overflow and the plumbing i was planning exiting the tank was bulkhead -> few inches of pipe -> union -> gate valve -> flex tubing -> sump.
i'm worried now that operating the gate valves is going to put too much pressure on the union and bulkhead near it. what do you think? should i do this instead:
bulkhead -> flex tubing -> union -> gate valve -> bulkhead -> sump
in this case the gate valve would be supported to the adjacent dry bulkhead.
thoughts?
supporting gate valves...
hi beananimal -
happy new year!
i just got my spears gate valves in from Bulk Reef Supply and realized that they're quit heavy... The holes were drilled in the bottom of my external overflow and the plumbing i was planning exiting the tank was bulkhead -> few inches of pipe -> union -> gate valve -> flex tubing -> sump.
i'm worried now that operating the gate valves is going to put too much pressure on the union and bulkhead near it. what do you think? should i do this instead:
bulkhead -> flex tubing -> union -> gate valve -> bulkhead -> sump
in this case the gate valve would be supported to the adjacent dry bulkhead.
thoughts?
tonyespinoza
Premium Member
second question -
my over flow is not big enough to sneak the pump in to feed my external skimmer, so i'd like to feed it by the full siphon.
so there are at least 2 options.
1) full siphon > skimmer > return to sump
2) in addition to the standard siphon, add a second siphon > skimmer sump. i have enough holes drilled to use either 1.5" or 1" for these siphons.
what would you recommend?
do you think it would be hard to balance the two siphons?
my over flow is not big enough to sneak the pump in to feed my external skimmer, so i'd like to feed it by the full siphon.
so there are at least 2 options.
1) full siphon > skimmer > return to sump
2) in addition to the standard siphon, add a second siphon > skimmer sump. i have enough holes drilled to use either 1.5" or 1" for these siphons.
what would you recommend?
do you think it would be hard to balance the two siphons?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Tony, you really should provide ridgid support for the plumbing. If youy look at the back side of those ball valves, you will see they are tapped for (4) screws so that they can be hard mounted. I am sure with a bit of thought, you can come up with a suitable rigid mounting board or bracket to accept the valves.
As for the siphons... I would guess you could do it either way. Balancing (2) siphons will certainly be harder than (1).
As for the siphons... I would guess you could do it either way. Balancing (2) siphons will certainly be harder than (1).
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Dad, the dog and the tank.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
For that matter there is a gallery showing the basic build log...
http://www.beananimal.com/gallery/75-gallon-in-wall-aquarium-build-gallery.aspx
http://www.beananimal.com/gallery/75-gallon-in-wall-aquarium-build-gallery.aspx
I finished plumbing mine. I just added the sand so the water is still cloudy.
Right.
Left.
Inside the box.
Here's how mine is supported. There is another piece of wood with matching cuts. I put o-ring material on the pipes and attached the outside piece of wood with screws. I'll try to get a pic of it assembled.
Right.
Left.
Inside the box.
Here's how mine is supported. There is another piece of wood with matching cuts. I put o-ring material on the pipes and attached the outside piece of wood with screws. I'll try to get a pic of it assembled.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Nice work. Are you pleased with the performance? Have you put it thorugh its paces?
LoneRanger
Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066174#post14066174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mflamb
I finished plumbing mine. I just added the sand so the water is still cloudy.
Right.
Left.
Inside the box.
Here's how mine is supported. There is another piece of wood with matching cuts. I put o-ring material on the pipes and attached the outside piece of wood with screws. I'll try to get a pic of it assembled.
GREAT Pics! thanks for the help!
L.R.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thanks for the kind words! The reality is that there are 100 unfinished projects and the warden is not at all happy about it. Fish projects are not popular around here when there are plenty of unfinished non-fish projects.
oldsaltman
New member
Bean, I have water in my 90g and I appears to be off level by 1/16" end to end. I do not plan to try and level it any more. I have my glass ready for the overflow, but wanted to wait and see how level the tank was before I installed the glass. I plan to level the overflow to the water and not the tank as you said eariler. Should I be concerned with the 1/16" off level. My level said it was level but the water doesn't lie.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
It is hard to find a quality level these days.
I would not fret over 1/16" as long as the stand is FLAT (planar) The trim could also be the culprit
In any case, level the overflow and you will never see it because the water will always be above the bottom of the trim anyway.
I would not fret over 1/16" as long as the stand is FLAT (planar) The trim could also be the culprit
In any case, level the overflow and you will never see it because the water will always be above the bottom of the trim anyway.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
mask with tape, set the bead, the pull the tape.
So far, so good. The last piece of pipe on each channel going into the sump is temporary until I'm pleased with it's position, and I had them too deep into the water at first. I couldn't figure out why it had more flow from the open channels than the siphon channel, so I reread the entire thread and figured it out. Once I drilled a small hole in the two siphon channel pipes, it works great. I'm going to replace the two end pieces of eggcrate in the overflow boxes with acrylic to try to change the water flow into the box. The loudest part of the tank if the water flowing into the box.
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