BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Glad to hear that it is up and running. It is also good that you have been able to see the fail-safe feature working!
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Bean
I have just ordered a 60Lx30Dx24H custom glass with an external 48L X 6D X 12H overflow on the back panel. I'm having the bottom of the overflow drilled for 6 1-1/2" bulkheads as I'm gong to have two sets of "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM". My question is twofold.
I have just ordered a 60Lx30Dx24H custom glass with an external 48L X 6D X 12H overflow on the back panel. I'm having the bottom of the overflow drilled for 6 1-1/2" bulkheads as I'm gong to have two sets of "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM". My question is twofold.
- Will having two sets of BeanAnimal overflows in the same box create any problems? The tanks not built yet so I have the option to get them to divide the box in two.
- I believe that you had 1" bulkheads and bushed the overflow pipes to fit. Was this done for a reason and will having the full 1-1/2" in my setup cause any problems?
[/list=1] Thanks
A little help please.
I have a 250 gal tank with the overflow box and two drains just like you have. Currently have Durso type and basement sump. Bought new house and am in the middle of moving the tank. I can drill another hole for the three return system, but here is my current situation/ problem. Tank will be in theater room, and sump will be in room next to tank (large storage room). Idea is for return to go down under the floor, lateral either 10 or 15 feet (prefer the 15 foot side of the room) and then back up through floor to the sump located on the floor. I was thinking I would come into the sump with an open "T" to allow air to escape, but not sure how big I need the drain pipe to be (currently have 1.5 inch spaflex).
Will it work? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Ken
I have a 250 gal tank with the overflow box and two drains just like you have. Currently have Durso type and basement sump. Bought new house and am in the middle of moving the tank. I can drill another hole for the three return system, but here is my current situation/ problem. Tank will be in theater room, and sump will be in room next to tank (large storage room). Idea is for return to go down under the floor, lateral either 10 or 15 feet (prefer the 15 foot side of the room) and then back up through floor to the sump located on the floor. I was thinking I would come into the sump with an open "T" to allow air to escape, but not sure how big I need the drain pipe to be (currently have 1.5 inch spaflex).
Will it work? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Ken
oldsaltman
New member
Bean, I had to tilt two of my drains slightly to handle space issues. (poor planing) Do you see any reason that that would matter?
I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.
I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Guys... I will answer the posts, but I am a bit behind today and will be without internet access for most of the day... I will try and get to it this evening.
Thanks for the informative thread, I'll be incorporating your design into my 300+G. build I have under way.
I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.
Thanks.
I was wondering what you and others think the advantages and disadvantages of a intank weir compared to behind tank weir?
I think behind tank 'looks' better as you do not take up tank space. I'm more concerned about strength. My build will be about a 8 foot wide tank with close to a coast to coast overflow.
Do you think a rear mounted overflow box would add strength like euro bracing would? With a intank weir you would have the strength of the weir and could still ad eruo bracing if you wanted. So I guess my question is about tank strength; intank or behind tank is there a difference in tank strength? Other comments regarding the good and bad of each would also be appreciated.
Thanks.
tonyespinoza
Premium Member
who's manufacturing your tank? (sounds exciting!)
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I don't want to answer for Bean but my tank manufacturer said that an external coast to coast overflow actually strengthens the tank. I guess it's like having extra Eurobracing.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I'm having a 60x30 built with a 48 rear external. I will have Eurobracing and they said that an external overflow made it stronger. I don't know why you can't have Eurobracing with and external.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
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What is your proposed flow? It is likely that (6) standpipes are not at all needed. Trying to balance multiple siphons may be tough. Multiple open channels should not be a problem, but each will add the possibility of the noise of falling water. When several objects make the same nearly silent sound, the additive nature of sound ensure that it is no longer silent
The 1.5" standpipe allows the open channel to flow more water quietly by allowing more air space and less change of gurgling or partial siphon. The larger the open channel diameter, the better.
The larger diameter Siphon and Emergency drains help to increase their capacity by lowering resistance.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The siphon will work just fine once it gets started. It may be hard to purge all of the air from it though (it could in theory air lock). The open channel will not work as expected, as it relys on the free fall of water and air.
Now, that is not to say that your setup will not work quietly. The water will collect on the bottoms of the standpipes at the level of the sumps surface.
Sorry I don't have a better answer, but your setup is going to take some trial and error to get silent and a lot depends on your target flow rate.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14093937#post14093937 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oldsaltman
Bean, I had to tilt two of my drains slightly to handle space issues. (poor planing) Do you see any reason that that would matter?
I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.
You should be fine.
You are going to likely want to turn those valve handles around! They are going to be tough to manipulate in that position. You should also consider rigid support for ALL of the standpipes and CL pipes, as manipulating the valve can put tremendous torque on the bulkheads.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The overflow box will add strength, but bowing of the glass/acrylic could peel it from the back of the tank if it is not adhered well.
I like the external overflow better from an easthetic standpoint and display standpoint.
The eurobracing will get in the way of an "in tank" overlfow and make it hard to access.
robertifly
Premium Member
Glad to see someone with more holes in the back of the tank than mine has. Looks good!
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14111987#post14111987 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
What is your proposed flow? It is likely that (6) standpipes are not at all needed. Trying to balance multiple siphons may be tough. Multiple open channels should not be a problem, but each will add the possibility of the noise of falling water. When several objects make the same nearly silent sound, the additive nature of sound ensure that it is no longer silent
The 1.5" standpipe allows the open channel to flow more water quietly by allowing more air space and less change of gurgling or partial siphon. The larger the open channel diameter, the better.
The larger diameter Siphon and Emergency drains help to increase their capacity by lowering resistance.
Bean
My main return pump is about 1900gph @ 0' (but my tank is 10' above the pump and I will divert some flow to the refugium) so say around 1200gph from the overflow. If having two systems is not a good idea and being the anal retentive person that I am (I'm afraid of overflowing the tank and flooding my house) should I then use three of the six holes for your type of overflow and leave the other three as triple emergency overflows (each set at a slightly higher level)? Or possible as inlets for a CL (or would that starve my sump)?
Thanks
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Sorry but I don't see that. My tank is 60" long and the overflow is 48" long. However if the overflow were full length the cutout on the back panel would be less than 60" so there is room to attach it.
Anyway this is a little off topic. Sorry Bean.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The core concept of this overflow is safety. Adding a 4th standpipe as a 2nd emergency would certainly not hurt, but the benefit is questionable. Without a doubt 5 and 6 are far past the point of diminishing returns.
You can use them as closed loop intakes, everything will balance. However, that means a significant increase in flow over the weir and a severe dilution of the surface skimmed water going to the sump. It also means certain cavitation when the return pumps are off (the closed loops will not get any water). In other words, it is not a good idea.
oldsaltman
New member
Thanks, I am working on the supports now. I just have them turned around to have some space while I was leak testing.
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