Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
That is how I built my original bracket, but decided to use the Velcro style straps to save a few inches of hip room in the narrow fishroom.
You did a wonderful job.
You did a wonderful job.
robertifly
Premium Member
BeanAnimal, help!
BeanAnimal, help!
Hey BeanAnimal, great system you've come up with and the build thread is awesome, very detailed and concise I've been with it for a long time and have my tank set up with the of design. It works better than anything I've seen or not heard, heh, heh. I have one question I need help with please. My setup is typical to yours and LoneRanger shown just above with one exception in that my collection box is outside the back wall which doesn't affect anything it's just I decided I'd rather use space behind tank rather than in tank for it. All plumbing is 1.5" all the way, one valve on the full siphon drain, the open channel and emer. drains have no valve. I have the full siphon drain valve set to regulate the flow so I get some water thru the open channel that I have plumbed to the refugium to feed it a low flow. Here's the question: When I shut down the system to feed or service and restart the open channel drain will cycle from full siphon to empty the overflow box many times before the full siphon finally gets going and takes over, up to an hour or more. Then it is just fine until stopped/started again, what can I do to get the full siphon to start up sooner. Sorry for such a long post but this is the ONLY complaint and not really a big problem, it's just the only thing wrong with otherwise "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM" thankyou for all the aquarists you've helped.
BeanAnimal, help!
Hey BeanAnimal, great system you've come up with and the build thread is awesome, very detailed and concise I've been with it for a long time and have my tank set up with the of design. It works better than anything I've seen or not heard, heh, heh. I have one question I need help with please. My setup is typical to yours and LoneRanger shown just above with one exception in that my collection box is outside the back wall which doesn't affect anything it's just I decided I'd rather use space behind tank rather than in tank for it. All plumbing is 1.5" all the way, one valve on the full siphon drain, the open channel and emer. drains have no valve. I have the full siphon drain valve set to regulate the flow so I get some water thru the open channel that I have plumbed to the refugium to feed it a low flow. Here's the question: When I shut down the system to feed or service and restart the open channel drain will cycle from full siphon to empty the overflow box many times before the full siphon finally gets going and takes over, up to an hour or more. Then it is just fine until stopped/started again, what can I do to get the full siphon to start up sooner. Sorry for such a long post but this is the ONLY complaint and not really a big problem, it's just the only thing wrong with otherwise "PERFECT SILENT DRAIN SYSTEM" thankyou for all the aquarists you've helped.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Make sure the siphon standpipe is not submerged more than an 1" or so. You can also drill a small hole or two in the siphon standpipe near the water line of the sump. It sound slike trapped air is keeping it from starting. You should also ensure that the open channel standpipe is getting enough air.
robertifly
Premium Member
Bean, on the depth of the siphon, are you speaking of when running or when DT is drained fully down to sump?
When running the siphon is 1" under water, when DT drained down siphon 4.5" under.
When running the open channel under 1-2". open channel 4.5-5" under.
The only other measurable difference in the two is the valve in the siphon drain, the air line in the open channel and the open channel measures 1/16" higher at the bulkhead.
All those factors should give the siphon drain the edge, yes?
I have not drilled the hole at the water line yet, I'm thinking that would be at the water line with DT drained down?
When running the siphon is 1" under water, when DT drained down siphon 4.5" under.
When running the open channel under 1-2". open channel 4.5-5" under.
The only other measurable difference in the two is the valve in the siphon drain, the air line in the open channel and the open channel measures 1/16" higher at the bulkhead.
All those factors should give the siphon drain the edge, yes?
I have not drilled the hole at the water line yet, I'm thinking that would be at the water line with DT drained down?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I would drill the hole just above the water mark at the sumps normal operating level. Remembver the return pump is going to lower the level, no matter which pipe is running 
LoneRanger
Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14071888#post14071888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mflamb
Once I drilled a small hole in the two siphon channel pipes, it works great.
wher do the small holes go?
LoneRanger
Member
dbl post
oldsaltman
New member
Bean, I designed my overflow just as you described it you your first post. I have a full 4" x 6" box with three 1 1/2" outlets. I just finished gluing my baffles in place. Is there anything about the final design that I should change? I just want to make sure I will have an overflow that works like described.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
If you are concerned about the siphon starting, then you can place the open channel standpipe bulkhead slightly higher (1/2" or so) than the siphon standpipe bulkhead.
02WRXGT30R
New member
Hey Bean i am planning to run a overflow system very similar to yours except do to size restrictions and tank design i have to change a few thing and was wanting your opinion on my design. My overflow box will be attached to the back of my tank and the tank will be cut to allow water to run in, the dimensions of the overflow will be 28wide by 5deep and 5 tall and the 1" bulkheads will be through the bottom of the overflow and it will be similar to this setup
and this is the design i have so far
It is all 1" and from the bottom of the overflow to the center line of the "T" is about 3 1/4"
does this appear that it will function similar or do you think i will have problems and suggestions or opinions will be greatly appreciated Thanks
and this is the design i have so far
It is all 1" and from the bottom of the overflow to the center line of the "T" is about 3 1/4"
does this appear that it will function similar or do you think i will have problems and suggestions or opinions will be greatly appreciated Thanks
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
It should work just fine, of course depending on the total volume it has to process. I would opt for larger elbows as intakes, even though the Tee is 1"
02WRXGT30R
New member
ok i will look into that thanks for the input and the total flow wont be anything big its only a 50gal. tank with a 20gal. sump so maybe 500gph
oldsaltman
New member
The bulkheads are already in place. Would changing the depth of the elbow in the overflow help, or should I just go with it and see what happens?
Should I try this or wait and see?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Changing the depth of the elbow will only work the standpipes go through the bottom of the box. If they are horizontal (through the back of the box) then the weir height is dictated by the bulkhead height.
You can drill the holes are wait and see... It will not hurt to drill them but may not be necessary.
You can drill the holes are wait and see... It will not hurt to drill them but may not be necessary.
robertifly
Premium Member
BeanAnimal, you're "da man" the two little holes in the siphon took care of the problem, transition is now less than 2 min and was like 30 before with lots of cycling from the open channel going full siphon and emptying the overflow box. Very pleased with the outcome. Thanks again
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