Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[BeanAnimal]

NO LUBRICANT should be used on the gaskets for the style of bulkheads we use in the hobby. A properly installed bulkhead will seal just fine without lubricant or sealant.

You can lubricate the stems of ball valves with a bit of food safe silicone lubricant from time to time.
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[BrklynArch]

NO LUBRICANT should be used on the gaskets for the style of bulkheads we use in the hobby. A properly installed bulkhead will seal just fine without lubricant or sealant.

You can lubricate the stems of ball valves with a bit of food safe silicone lubricant from time to time.
​

Thanks Bean!
I remember reading somewhere that lubricant shouldn't be used, but wasnt sure.
Now i know.....ill try and get some pics up when im done setting everything up.
Thanks again

 

[symon_say]

Thanks Bean for this incredible idea, i have read a LOT of pages in this threat and i think this is the way to go on my tank.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Thank you for the kind words symon say. The first page and my website have most of the basic information. While the entire thread is a good read, it is a LOT to tackle. In general, nothing with the design has changed; feel free to ask here if you have questions.

 

[symon_say]

Thanks, i have read both several time to really understand this install an planned ahead, i have read that the original system can handle more than 1500 gph, i'm panning a 130g tank, return will be about 600 gph (near to skimmer capacity) will 3 1" bulkhead work fine or should i go for something bigger??

 

[BeanAnimal]

The 1" bulkheads will be fine. It will not hurt to go bigger, but if you don't feel that your will ever increase the flow significantly then it may not be worth the trouble to upsize.

 

[symon_say]

Thanks, if i go bigger i'll never go over 1000 gph.

 

[ram1500]

Finally done... And the transfer from my old tank was a bear... Here's a few pics. Worked out the few kinks with the oscillating overflow. Found it was the Mag 9.5, PVC shavings stuck in the impeller caused it to generate micro bubbles and running very loud (that was the other problem). After cleaning that up, water is crystal clear and now the overflow stabilizes within the first minute of start-up. Now you can not hear the pump at all. About all you can hear is some water trickling in the sump.

Last question I have for Bean is how do I know if I have the overflow optimized for flow? I have the water line in the overflow to about the top of the siphon elbow.

Now the coral stocking process begins...

Thanks
Gus

 

[ram1500]

few more pics

 

[pandimus]

Dont those returns get kinda loud nullifying the quiet overflow system you built?

few more pics

 

[ram1500]

It certainly did... Look at the finished shot I added a 90 degree elbow into the water ending with a 45. Drilled a small siphon break hole just below the water line to minimize backflow. Otherwise it sounded like a river.

pandimus.... good catch!

Thanks
Gus

Dont those returns get kinda loud nullifying the quiet overflow system you built?

 

[ram1500]

you don't even know it's running...

 

[BeanAnimal]

optimized... wherever it runs silently. There will be a small flow in the open channel that only ejects a small amount of bubbles into the sump. Water level at the top of the elbow is typical.

 

[CreativeGuy]

Hello again, it has been a while since I have posted here (due to outside priorities and commitments, had to place the build on the back burner). However, am back at trying to determine the best way to go with my 600g irregular display tank ( http://creaturemorpheus.com/CreatureMorpheus/600g_Tank_Specs_&_Dimensions.html ). In earlier posts it was proposed to design two exterior overflow boxes (one for recirculation to the filtration system; two for a number of closed loop systems). Taking heed in the large weir requirements and due to limited space constraints at the rear of the tank ,as well as advantages of strategically locating exiting returns of the closed loops for better flow through the aqua scape of the reef, resulted in changing the major design concept to eliminate the closed loop overflow box and drilling the back walls of the tank and use bulkhead fittings. However, there is the concern for potential leakage through numerous fittings, (properly installed, are there many issues or bad experiences with numerous bulkhead fittings?). It seems to be the better of the alternatives.

This also allows the remaining coast to coast overflow box to have approximately 40 linear inches for filtration recirc of 2,500 to 3,500 gph. Within it, it shall have 4 discharge pipes: two siphons at 1.5" each; an third 2" overflow (which is expanded to 3" below the floor on the 20' of horizontal travel to the sump); and a 1.5 safety overflow discharged to a plumbing drain. A question I have for Bean, is there any detrimental or negative draw back to utilizing the two 1.5" siphons, which appear to be oversized according to your calculator on your web site. There is approximately 90" of height differential (head) which with a 1.5" pipe accommodates about 7,263 gph each. There will be under 4,000 gph total being recirculated through the filtration system from the display tank. Even a single 1" pipe appears to be capable of 3,200 gph. Would there be an issue(s) using the 1.5"? Could the flow through the 1.5" be throttled down by a gate valve? or pipe size reduced above and/or below the bulkhead fitting in the overflow box?

The third 2" pipe for the non-siphoning overflow be sufficient in size not to make noise?

I hope to start a RC build thread for my display tank within the next few days, with particular discussion of proposed flow within the tank and proposed strategic locations of the in-tank distribution. Here I am trying to ask pertinent questions to the silent and fail safe system. Thanks again in advance.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Any size siphon can be throttled via a valve. In your case, the valves really need to be on the sump end due to the long drop, high flow and real world chance of cavitation if the valve is near the display.

The 2" open channel will be fine, but you may want to consider canting it (leaning it) a few degrees to the side to force the water to run down the wall. The velocity created by the long drop will want to pull the water away from the vertical walls of the pipe.

 

[CreativeGuy]

Will make the siphon pipes 1.5" and throttle at the sump end; planning to use flexible PVC for the complete runs.

The 2" open channel will be flexible PVC with union ends and have a connection to a long sweep 3" PVC at the bottom of the vertical (running 3" PVC horizontally with a 1/4" per foot slope to the sump).

Opinions or Comments: For the multiple closed loop set up (five closed loops: (i) 3 at 3,000 gph/loop across the bottom; (ii) 4x1.5" Ocean Motions (OM-4way) at 1,800 gph; and (iii) Detritus under rock at 1,800 gph) for a total approximately 12,600 gph maximum. Was thinking of utilizing a main supply manifold for the closed loop system where four 2" bulkhead discharges are drawn from (or through) the rear wall of the tank (bottom inverts to be approximately 12" from of the glass floor or 8" above the sand with a "Y" split and screens on each. The intent or objective would be to draw the water flow through the rock towards the back of the tank and downward to assist in the barrel rolling effect within the tank. Alternatively, possibly (2) 3" bulkhead penetrations in the bottom of the tank, again split hidden with the rock scape.

The manifold in the crawl space below (about 7') where the pumps shall be located. An alternative would be to have

Returning: drawing off the manifold will be the five (with possible expansion for an additional loop or two) to the closed loop pumps. Each pump would have an inline check valve. The 3 main returns distributed through 3 bulkhead fittings in the bottom of the tank and piping submerged in the 4.5" of sand. The (4) - 1.5" for the OM four-way and the detritus loop shall be through bulkhead fittings staggered across the back of the tank's rear wall between 8" and 10" from the bottom. All of these returns shall have "y" splits and flexible Loc-Line equipped with Eductors for adaptability and changing/toying with the dynamic flow within the tank. I am hoping to find computer controlled/programable variable flow pumps (DC if possible) to be used on every loop (still searching).

There are several objectives system for flow within the tank of the intended concept:
1) Create a "barrel roll" effect in the tank to cause the surface water back towards the coast to coast overflow box at the rear.
2) minimize dead spots or areas in the tack and corners
3) maximize flexibility for future changes
4) Develop an intergrated system combining the fixed piping, two Vortech MP60s and an Oceans Motions 4-way (primarily used for creating changing dynamics within the rock scape); these coupled with programable variable flow pumps to generate 25,000 to 35,000 gph of flow for SPS reef aquascape.

To help understand, three more illustrative CAD drawings have been uploaded:
(a) one plan view with piping layout (without the proposed rock scape)
(b) one plan view and piping layout with the proposed rock scape
(c) a cross section indicating the locations of returns and showing the "barrel role" concept.
Link: http://www.projectmorpheus.me/CreatureMorpheus/600g_Tank_Flow_&_Piping.html#grid

 

[BrklynArch]

Went to a local glass shop to get a quote for the overflow (36"L x 4.5"d x 5.5" h) 1/4" glass....$80.
If I wanted the front black ( they said they use a regular black paint) $250....lol
I didn't even bother asking about the glass baffles I need to make my 40b sump.
So I'm on the hunt for a glass place once again.
How can I black out the front of the overflow? is krylon safe for in water use?
And do people ever put teeth on their glass overflows? Or just use egg crate?

 

[pandimus]

a glass guy i talked to said glass was like 5 bucks a square foot. Your probably getting charged some labor in there. why not ask how much for the glass itself, then make the overflow yourself?

Went to a local glass shop to get a quote for the overflow (36"L x 4.5"d x 5.5" h) 1/4" glass....$80.
If I wanted the front black ( they said they use a regular black paint) $250....lol
I didn't even bother asking about the glass baffles I need to make my 40b sump.
So I'm on the hunt for a glass place once again.
How can I black out the front of the overflow? is krylon safe for in water use?
And do people ever put teeth on their glass overflows? Or just use egg crate?

 

[BrklynArch]

a glass guy i talked to said glass was like 5 bucks a square foot. Your probably getting charged some labor in there. why not ask how much for the glass itself, then make the overflow yourself?

That was what the quote was for, just the glass.
I would silicone it together. Or did you mean ask for one sheet of glass and cut it myself?
If so, I have zero experience cutting glass, I imagine I would need some kind of a kit or something, oils and what not. At least from what little I've read. I just figured would have them cut it so it's one less thing I would need to do.

I'm sure it's been answered already but this thread is epic in length, anyone have a suggestion to my blacking out the front overflow panel question?

 

[pandimus]

That was what the quote was for, just the glass.
I would silicone it together. Or did you mean ask for one sheet of glass and cut it myself?
If so, I have zero experience cutting glass, I imagine I would need some kind of a kit or something, oils and what not. At least from what little I've read. I just figured would have them cut it so it's one less thing I would need to do.

I'm sure it's been answered already but this thread is epic in length, anyone have a suggestion to my blacking out the front overflow panel question?

I meant the glass already cut.