Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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RicoJ
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Looks nice. Where do I get the vinyl?
How high up do these drain units really need to be?
I'm planning a 70 gal shallow, rimless, peninsula style tank that will incorporate a bean overflow. I want to hide the plumbing work with a black plastic overflow cover. I'd want the cover to be flush or nearly flush with the rim of the tank but if it needs to be built up like a box, that will do. Just don't want it to be unnecessarily high.
I'm planning a 70 gal shallow, rimless, peninsula style tank that will incorporate a bean overflow. I want to hide the plumbing work with a black plastic overflow cover. I'd want the cover to be flush or nearly flush with the rim of the tank but if it needs to be built up like a box, that will do. Just don't want it to be unnecessarily high.
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The section of plumbing you are indicating is, I believe, only there to facilitate access to clean out the pipes when desired. The system could be implemented with regular elbows there instead of the san Ts. If you used a threaded connection for the down tube with a union below, you could still disassemble things to clean out the pipes if necessary. Though, it would not be as convenient as with the risers.
rrasco
New member
I have a bean without Ts.
I first went with the traditional bean design (first pic), with the T and the threaded caps, but in order to keep the plumbing from sticking out above the overflow, the water level was so low in the overflow it made a lot of noise when water fell over the overflow. Kind of defeated the purpose of a bean. So, I modified my setup to use elbows instead of the T and caps (second pic). The main reason for threaded caps on the bean is to allow for easy servicing. I can just as easily pull the entire stand pipe out of the bulkhead if I need to service it, I didn't cement them in and they still work great; even the siphon.
I first went with the traditional bean design (first pic), with the T and the threaded caps, but in order to keep the plumbing from sticking out above the overflow, the water level was so low in the overflow it made a lot of noise when water fell over the overflow. Kind of defeated the purpose of a bean. So, I modified my setup to use elbows instead of the T and caps (second pic). The main reason for threaded caps on the bean is to allow for easy servicing. I can just as easily pull the entire stand pipe out of the bulkhead if I need to service it, I didn't cement them in and they still work great; even the siphon.
Da Maui life
New member
The way mine will be is with the top of the pipe threaded cap flush to the top of tank, when finished ( it's only in mock-up now) the plywood represents tank wall and top of tank, top of plywood. Plywood is my template for drilling hole in the tank.How high up do these drain units really need to be?
I'm planning a 70 gal shallow, rimless, peninsula style tank that will incorporate a bean overflow. I want to hide the plumbing work with a black plastic overflow cover. I'd want the cover to be flush or nearly flush with the rim of the tank but if it needs to be built up like a box, that will do. Just don't want it to be unnecessarily high.
When it's insralled I'll cut down the pipe and ad the proper threaded parts If I was to leave it as is. I'm only about 1" above the top of tank.
The over all finished height of the plumbing has a lot to do with the hole location on the box and tank plus the parts you ad on the sanitary tee.
I hope this helps?
How high up do these drain units really need to be?
...
From what I understand of this system, they are only has high as the absolute minimum necessary to add the pipe, thread adapter and threaded cap above the sanitary tee.
If you are not going to use the easy cleaning capability via the threaded cap (i.e. you are simply gluing it shut) then you don't even need sanitary tee's for neither the siphon channel nor the emergency channel (open channel is needed to mount the air hose) and can use a sanitary elbow instead, or even readily available standard 90 degree elbows.
That's my understanding at least...
Da Maui life
New member
Sanitary tee's only come in 1.5” and up. Never seen a sanitary elbow and don’t think they make one perhaps your thinking a tee?. but if your not going to use the easy cleaning capability then yeah you could just the cap the sani tee.
Da Maui life
New member
Yes they do make a sweep but you called it a sani elbow. Aloha!
Hehe Maui, I'm definitely referring to a sanitary elbow as I've seen them many times!
Here's one on Amazon: Genova Products 72815 700 Series 1 1/2" 90 Degree Sanitary Elbow
BTW, Mahalo! Born and raised in Honolulu, but that was many ages ago. Still have all my family on my father's side there on big island, near Kona Beach...
Da Maui life
New member
I was thinking smaller the 1.5:deadhorse: Love the big island Honolulu is like the mainland for me way to busy. 'mahalo nui loa' Brah!
Maui No Ka Oi
Ya, I'm no fluid engineer nor plumber; I'm just regurgitating terminology as I see them advertised, as you can see on that Amazon link :facepalm:
I just know what they look like!
And I'm sure you've heard of my cousin... Benny :bounce1:
Da Maui life
New member
Kalama?
Da Maui life
New member
for real wow!
Da Maui life
New member
I didn’t know he was born to Filipino and Samoan parents. Hapa like my daughter she has the Filipino kine in her blood
jdcook72, Is that all? OK, makes sense. I definitely like your suggestion about using the unions down in the weir for maintenance. I'm going that route for sure! :thumbsup:
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