This is my sump setup. The bean animal is color coded in back and in sump. The coiled hose is connected to salt water mixing station in garage. I have a new skimmer on order and some other stuff to move from old tank.
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Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
This is my sump setup. The bean animal is color coded in back and in sump. The coiled hose is connected to salt water mixing station in garage. I have a new skimmer on order and some other stuff to move from old tank.
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Maybe 7 inches lol. Like I was saying with the bent pipe I don't think it can get to full siphon. If I leave it straight pipe it can. As weird as it so however if I close the main pipe the secondary can get to full syphon even though drain is same depth.
Either way it's silent, if I close off the main the secondary works. I'm pleased with water line. I think I'm going to leave well enough alone. Probably leave them dry fit in overflow for awhile and then decide later if I really want to glue them in overflow.
Thanks
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I second that. The bulkhead in the pic above is far enough under water to initiate and maintain the siphon, you don't need (or want) the pipe inserted into it.
Unfortunately they came like that in the sump and are glued to bulk head so if I want to shorten I will need to cut them off or replace bulk heads.
As it is everything is working with strainer ( with no fittings ) in middle drain instead of the down turned drain pipe
Sandrock.e46
New member
GREAT Pics! thanks for the help!
L.R.
Nice work
Kevinsrangers
New member
Beananimal x2
Beananimal x2
I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?
I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other.
I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends.
Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever.
Any other tips will be welcomed.
Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while.
Beananimal x2
I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?
I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other.
I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends.
Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever.
Any other tips will be welcomed.
Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while.
Swope2bc
New member
I know I've read here a lot of times that splitting the plumbing does not work but I will be interested to read the comments concerning a possible 3 on each side ... If both overflows are at the same level I cannot see a reason for this not to function. Half of the flow should go over each side and be returned to the sump by the Bean return...
Swope2bc
New member
You can achieve a lower profile in the tank by moving the plumbing to an external box. Other than this I cannot see different benefits.
Does this mean you can afford to use a smaller internal weir in the tank if you have an external box? Reason I ask is that both methods seem to have an internal box in the tank either way so maybe it's just smaller if you also have the external box too?
Swope2bc
New member
Smaller in that it intrudes into the inner tank space less. My weir is an angled CTC.
It takes up under 2" at the top and angles to nothing. Now that the tank is full you can hardly see it from the front.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The open channel and siphon must be below the weir of the overflow box. The emergency drain will be above them and, depending on several variables may or may not be at or above the weir level. It really depends on how much head space you have above the normal operating level of the system and the true flood level of the aquarium rim (trim, whatever).
Given that advice, you surely do not want the emergency intake at a level where you have zero or almost no head space above it and that flood level, as it can take some time to fully kick in.
The actual space needed is a function of the tank surface area, head space between normal operation and true flood, and the size of the return pump.
My acrylic overflow box fell off. Not wanting to deal with this again, I made a glass coast to coast. Had to redo the return a little.
It is far far more quiet than the first rendition.
https://youtu.be/bhr5u6KS5Ms
It is far far more quiet than the first rendition.
https://youtu.be/bhr5u6KS5Ms
Sandrock.e46
New member
Bookmarking for later
usctrack
New member
sizing question for a 40b - I will be drilling 2ea 1 3/4" holes ( would hold a 1" bulkhead but will leave bare) and wanted to know how big or small the external box should be. Right now I am leaning toward a 16" long x 5" wide by 9" tall. Is that too big?
I plan on running 3ea 1" drains
I plan on running 3ea 1" drains
Last edited:
Swope2bc
New member
I just made my external box CTC for simplicity but it just needs to be big enough to hold the plumbing.
sleepydoc
Team RC
Wow - several questions going on at once here. I'll try to keep things straight...
The thing that really matters with a weir is the the length. As was commented above, if you have an external box, you can have a very low profile internal weir that drains to the external weir via plain holes or bulkheads. Some people have even cut a groove or notch along the back of their tank to make the rear wall function as the weir with everything external.
sleepydoc
Team RC
Is it going to be acrylic or glass? I'm assuming glass; otherwise you would need bulkheads to secure it to the tank.
The top of the box should be at or close to the top of the tank to make sure the box doesn't overflow before the tank does.
Length needs to be wider than your through holes, of course, and wide enough to hold the plumbing and get your hand in to clean it. Other than that there's no real advantage to having it wider; just more dead space to collect stuff.
Height needs to be enough to accommodate your plumbing. There are a couple different ways of doing an external bean, but pick your style, pick your fittings and then size the overflow.
Depth (front-back) needs to be enough for the fittings and wide enough that the glass won't break. Normal guidelines are one hole diameter between glass edges, so for 1" bulkheads ~ 1.75" holes you need a minimum of 5.25" front to back and 12.25" wide. Those guidelines are for bulkheads in tanks; I don't know if you can get away with smaller for an overflow.
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