Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

The open channel is the current prime target for tinkerers, and is where the most damage to system function is done. It is obviously the least understood part of the system,...

I agree that the open channel is the least-understood part of the system. At steady state, it's basically a Durso standpipe, just modified so that the air intake will occlude at the right time. The problem is, I don't think many people really understand how a Durso works. A siphon is a pretty simple concept, but a standpipe with water flowing and entering air to keep the water flow laminar and quiet is much more complicated physically and conceptually.

The fact that people tinker with it more is also not surprising, since that's where all the 'action' (magic?) occurs in the system. The siphon is a siphon. Not much to see or change there. The dry emergency is an open pipe that may get a bit of flow at startup and otherwise sits empty. Not much to play with there, either, but the open channel is just ripe for tinkering!

The other issue is people don't fully grasp the interaction between the 3 channels, or how they work in various failure modes.
 
uncleof6.... nice response... I read it a few times.... please grade my response and make sure I am understanding...

1) More flow, higher turn over of the DT water into the filtration area is goodness.... thus my 2000gph goal is a "good thing".... and my Beananimal with 1.5" bulkheads and 2" pipes ought handle that nicely.
2) Thus, I am creating a multipass system using your lingo... If I also add good 'vertical' mixing with power heads, I should get the water in the tank into the sump 10x per hour.
3) Question, why does it particularly matter where the skimmer is??? The "bad stuff" is in the water column regardless of what tank it is. Doesn't it really just need to be "somewhere". As long as the water column is well circulated, all the water eventually goes by the skimmer. Want to understand why it needs to be in the sump other than "convention".
4) RDSB vs refugiums... read a bunch a few years back when I was setting up my 120g and was steered away from the RDSB's. I've got the 120g servicing my 210g DT... it can be a RDSB or a fuge... it there a thread you recommend on learning about RDSB? I'll start searching and reading in the meantime.

More later, thanks
M

1) yep

2) Aquariums are already multipass systems. It is not necessary to create it. Some sub-systems used are single pass systems (skimmer; black box denitrators) things in which "contact time" actually has relevance; and this is limited to "within the method" not around it. Just for perspective: with a fuge, contact time or dwell time has no relevance: it is a multipass method. Simply understanding the concept of "multipass" frees one from many hobby myths, and back pocket rules of thumb. 10x is an arbitrary number the concept being there is no such thing as too much flow. The more the better.

3) Well... I will tell you two things straight up: First, this is not the "current" convention, the rage is all-in-one, does it all... Second, this principle very definately has roots in the Holiday Inn Express, black plastic glasses with white tape, and white plastic pocket protectors...

We have all these methods, and the convenient thing is to put them all in one spot (form vs function.) With this system we have basically two components. (getting away from sub-systems) import (production) and export. Production is the DT, export is below (or wherever) the tank. They are disperate components. An all-in-one aquarium for instance--just doesn't work well at all.) So what happens if we add production in our export component? (Anyway you slice it, if there is anything more than sand and bacteria in a "fuge" it is producing way more than it is exporting; it is adding to the burden on the system.) What will happen if the "fuge" goes south in a bad way, needs to be taken offline, out of the system (what have you) but your skimmer is there too? OOPsss... scramble time... Ok so the sump could go south too, and OOPss scramble ok, accepted....

***critter based DSB goes a bit against the concept of disperate methods***

Since a "fuge" and the DT are production areas, and a skimmer is entirely export, it makes a great deal more sense to to centrally locate the skimmer, to service both areas, consistantly... does not seem to be much different, but we are keeping disperate systems separate, and performance should improve. The point is not exactly where the skimmer is, rather we want to desgin/build purpose specific components, not mixing production and export as they are mutually exclusive. Shame to have a 120 servicing a tank... 120 is a great tank.. make it a fuge with all manner of critters from minute to seahorses.. put it on display. Use a common sump, with a skimmer does not need to be a huge sump; a ten gallon bucket almost full of fine sand, for an RDSB, and get on with life. I have written a bit about all of this, it is a can of worms, but eventually it makes sense.

4) A lot of folks are steered away from DSBs in general. They have been steered away primarily by folks that have never run a DSB, never knew how to do it right, did not have the patience to do it right, or a combination of all of the above...

The DSB has been (since the early days) and still remains the single most effective means of aquarium management. The DSB was responsible for the successful movement of an entire segment of natural reef to the Musee de Oceanographigue in Monaco, by Dr. Jean Jaubert. (DSB in combination with a plenum system.) This type of system is still in use today by most of the large public aquariums around the world. There must be something right with the system, and something wrong with what the detractors are saying about it...

Full critter based DSBs should be in the main display tank (to maintain the food chain) and is where most folks get in trouble: it takes time, patience, and husbandry, before adding anything else to the tank. However, there are alternatives, particularly the non-critter based system. The critter based DSB deals with a great many aquarium issues including dissolved organics to an extent, whereas the non-critter does one thing: nitrate control.

Many of the links I have are dead... but I gave you a big hint above... this is here on RC....

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595109
 
That's one thing about this hobby, ask 10 different people, get 10 different answers.

I first heard that quote in regards to reef keeping from an old timer who ran an entire saltwater-only store without a single skimmer in sight. I was like, no skimmers? How is this even possible? From my experience of reading these forums, you wouldn't even think that's a possible thing to do, lol. Though the guy's practically retired, seems like his daughter's taken over the shop. Will a skimmer ever show up in there though? Doubt it!

My main LFS which is like 65%/35% saltwater/freshwater, he's all about skimmers and some of the higher tech ecotech stuff and all that...

I mean ****, 30-40 years ago, everyone had undergravel filters, lol. While i'd hardly still advocate using them, they did still work to some extent. My main LFS even uses them still sometimes, but he also has staff that clean the tanks all the time, haha.
 
I agree that the open channel is the least-understood part of the system. At steady state, it's basically a Durso standpipe, just modified so that the air intake will occlude at the right time. The problem is, I don't think many people really understand how a Durso works. A siphon is a pretty simple concept, but a standpipe with water flowing and entering air to keep the water flow laminar and quiet is much more complicated physically and conceptually.

The fact that people tinker with it more is also not surprising, since that's where all the 'action' (magic?) occurs in the system. The siphon is a siphon. Not much to see or change there. The dry emergency is an open pipe that may get a bit of flow at startup and otherwise sits empty. Not much to play with there, either, but the open channel is just ripe for tinkering!

The other issue is people don't fully grasp the interaction between the 3 channels, or how they work in various failure modes.

Yep... however, a durso at laminar flow has no air entering it. The air inside the durso is calm, and the only motion is the water. It is a fairly easy concept to understand... but then even the inventor did not understand how his invention actually worked.
 
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The 120g was my DT for years... in my new house, I don't have room for the 210g and 120g as DT's.... but I have the 120g so I may as well put it to the best use I can. The question is "what's the best use for the 120g given I can't use it as a DT. I was thinking fuge.... you are suggesting RDSB,

I guess I need to learn about RDSB more and how to properly set them up.

One thing I love about this hobby is that I'm always learning. I am all about learning from more experience folks than I...

Mark
 
Well, I guess there's only one thing to do - add a room onto the new house for the 120! :lol:

It may be a bit big, but can the 120 be used as a sump? Otherwise you might be better off selling it.
 
The Herbie drain on my nano was put to the test yesterday. I came home to the sound of water thundering out the emergency drain (usually dry). Tweaking the ball valve on the syphon channel seemed to make no difference, until I opened it fully and a cerith shot out the end. Flood avoided :)
 
Not ott unless you don't mind a lot of water on your floor and potentially a burned out return pump. I guess the one I'm running now is supposed to detect run dry conditions and turn off. But wouldn't stop many gallons of water on the floor.
 
Proud to say, that my 'version' of the Herbie,* more closely to a BA that combines the 2nd and third drain is Still working VERY well!

When I power off (feed mode) the DC15000 for frozen feedings,
It cranks back up itself.
The 'siphon' is running full siphon yet, so my C2C overflow quickly fills near the top.
OH- but I have a 2nd line- that has an air valve drilled in the top of one of the sanitary 90's- with the free end inside the C2C overflow near the top.

The water comes up in the C2C- the free end of the tube near the top of the C2C goes underwater.
This quickly turns my 2nd drain (wide open, no valves) into an instant full siphon!
Yes- it does 'gurgle' for about 15 seconds- within 1 minute/less usually-
my 'full siphon' runs well- full siphon- and
the whole system quickly stabilizes in under a minute of power back on.

I DON'T adjust anything. It has NEVER given me any accidents/wet floors!

Just another way to do it- and yes, the reduncancy of the 3rd line IS better.

I called it 'The Todd', and yes, it is just a version of the priciples of the Herbie-
but it's not really the same, more a BA with the 2nd and 3rd combined.

And it is Silent too!

Flame Suit Engaged!
 
On the side glass, which of these would work?

9dfa099682a1055db03514ec22480dce.jpg

741647738895e9d3d9f9bcef97bcf1e8.jpg

1099a3c5318f980e16314c2bbcd32ed9.jpg


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On the side glass, which of these would work?

9dfa099682a1055db03514ec22480dce.jpg

741647738895e9d3d9f9bcef97bcf1e8.jpg

1099a3c5318f980e16314c2bbcd32ed9.jpg


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Just looking at it without a good point of reference, I would say the first one will work, and you are going to run into problems with the second and third.

Better points of reference would help a bit...
 
Just looking at it without a good point of reference, I would say the first one will work, and you are going to run into problems with the second and third.

Better points of reference would help a bit...
What problems would i be facing? Failure or sound?

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Really, a better point of reference is needed. However it appears that the 2nd and last are a vertical arrangement.

What problems would you be facing? Failure, sound, failure to start, failure to restart. It is entirely unpredictable as this deviates from the design criteria, and all bets are off. BAʻs system thrives because it is very predictable, till you change the recipe. :)
 
What would be a good height for an external coast to coast overflow box? It will be four foot long and I was thinking around eight to ten inches tall.
-Paul
 
"External Coast to Coast?" not following you. The weir over which the water flows is what's important. The external box can be whatever size you want as long as it works with the plumbing. Most people have a long or coast to coast internal weir and then a smaller external box. Remember, the larger the box, the more water will drain down to your sump. A 4' x 10" x 4" deep external box will hold 8 gallons of water - that's in addition to the amount of water in the internal box and any back siphon from the tank via the return line. A larger overflow box also means you potentially need to increase the size of the return section of your sump so it doesn't run dry during startup.
 
"External Coast to Coast?" not following you. The weir over which the water flows is what's important. The external box can be whatever size you want as long as it works with the plumbing. Most people have a long or coast to coast internal weir and then a smaller external box. Remember, the larger the box, the more water will drain down to your sump. A 4' x 10" x 4" deep external box will hold 8 gallons of water - that's in addition to the amount of water in the internal box and any back siphon from the tank via the return line. A larger overflow box also means you potentially need to increase the size of the return section of your sump so it doesn't run dry during startup.

I guess it is not exactly a coast to coast overflow. There will be no box inside the tank, instead the weir will be a series of four 1" tall by 10" long slots in the back side of the 5' x 5' x 24" square tank. The bottom of the slot will be 1.5" below the tank top and a slotted grate covering it to prevent snails and crabs from making it to the overflow.

That is a good point about the excess water going into the sump, I will double check my measurements on the sump surplus volume.

I don't want to make the external box any taller than I need to, but I also don't want to have issues with starting or maintaining the siphon.

Thanks for the help,
-Paul
 
Ok - Now I get it. A couple questions - is the tank built or being built? is it a rimless, rimmed or eurobraced? Such slots will weaken the tank wall somewhat. I can't say how much, but it's a concern. The general guideline for drilling holes is one diameter away from the edge of the glass, preferably more, so your proposed setup is cutting things tighter than would be recommended.
 
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