Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
October Sky
Member
Thanks for all the help, I actually placed my order then relized that 3/4 might be too small. I contacted them and changed it to 1" so I'm in better shape.
rwgarrison
New member
Thanks for all the help (previous couple of pages of this thread). I drilled a third hole and used the "oddball" hole for an emergency drain. It is working like a charm. Completely silent with full c2c overflow.
I had to get bigger pump than the one I was given. The original pump took hours to get to full siphon. The new pump take s 2-3 minutes (I'm running a DRP-6500 at 60%). I cannot hear the new pump at all. Not even a little bit. The only noise I get at all in the system is a slight trickle in the sump itself, and with the doors on the stand closed, even that is hard to hear.
I had to get bigger pump than the one I was given. The original pump took hours to get to full siphon. The new pump take s 2-3 minutes (I'm running a DRP-6500 at 60%). I cannot hear the new pump at all. Not even a little bit. The only noise I get at all in the system is a slight trickle in the sump itself, and with the doors on the stand closed, even that is hard to hear.
sleepydoc
Team RC
In general yes, but they don't have to. At steady state, the open channel and siphon channel will carry all the water, so if you want all the water going through the filter socks then you need to place them before. There's no reason you couldn't have them draining to different chambers, however.
Something else to keep in mind is that the open channel may generate some bubbles, if that's an issue to you.
The emergency can drain wherever you like. Preferably not onto the floor, though.
As far as the depth goes, most people have the ends of the pipes about ¾"~1" below the surface. The further they are below the surface, the more difficult it will be for the siphon channel to purge the air at startup.
Something else to keep in mind is that the open channel may generate some bubbles, if that's an issue to you.
The emergency can drain wherever you like. Preferably not onto the floor, though.
As far as the depth goes, most people have the ends of the pipes about ¾"~1" below the surface. The further they are below the surface, the more difficult it will be for the siphon channel to purge the air at startup.
Hello everyone! I've been going through quite a bit of pages of the thread to try and find the actual overflow design but have only found bits and pieces of everyone's design and reconfigurations and such. Can someone point me in the right direction of the actual proven design that this thread is built around please? TIA!! 
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Google "beananimal". first hit.
fishbox
New member
But has there been any changes that might not be on Bean's original plans? For example.... Bean's original plans call for valves on all the pipes and from following this thread I know that only the OC needs the valve .
BlueRoofTang
New member
No, it's not the open channel that needs a valve. Its the siphon line. :beer:
BlueRoofTang
New member
My advice is to study how a setup like this works, rather than just listen to 100 opinions and copy one. Then you can actually modify the design to suit what you want it to do, location you're in, or whatever you need. IMO, the basic idea behind the BA setup is this:
1) Siphon line with a valve to maintain siphon
2) Open channel for slight overflow of what's not going down siphon
3) Open Emergency drain, for the event something else fails.
1) Siphon line with a valve to maintain siphon
2) Open channel for slight overflow of what's not going down siphon
3) Open Emergency drain, for the event something else fails.
BlueRoofTang
New member
Here is my plumbing under the tank. "They" said it wouldn't work using a header like I did, and then running it to the basement where my pumps are. However, if you really understand the BA setup, and how it works, it's a no-brainer. It's dead silent. In this video, the TV is 30+ feet away, and the cell phone is about 5in or less from the water. Turn up your volume. Notice that I don't use any hoses in the overflow box. They are not necessary at all.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5932effe9d20b/20170603_131705.mp4
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5932effe9d20b/20170603_131705.mp4
Attachments
Wow, that is dead silent. The drilled holes at the top of the elbows are there to allow the syphons to start correct? Or what other purpose do they serve?
BlueRoofTang
New member
Yes, it is. It took me a few tries of using different length tubes to really figure out exactly how this setup works...the logic behind it.
The holes are there to allow the U pipes to completely fill with water. If you didn't have the holes, water is trapped in the top of them, and it would take a HUGE amount of flow to push it down to the sump. If you've ever used one of the HOB overflows with the upside down U pipe, you know how air gets trapped inside it and then you can't get the same flow through the pipe. In this type of overflow (Bean animal), you are submerging the U, so you can drill a hole in it. In all reality, you can actually remove the elbow from the siphon line if you want, adjust height accordingly, and achieve the exact same results.
sleepydoc
Team RC
I can't see all of the plumbing to know what's attached to the left or right, and I assume that the siphon channel and the emergency/open channel pipes empty into the sump separately.
I'm not sure why 'they' said it would never work - In terms of running silently, it certainly will/does. The main concern with your setup is that you have a single potential failure point (the common pipe for the open channel & emergency.) If you get an obstruction after the two come together then you will have a flood. I readily agree that this is unlikely, and if the risk to you is acceptable then fine, as long as you recognize it.
The setup you have for the open channel (in inverted U with a hole at the top) is generally the 'recommended' configuration, with the height of the top of the U being equivalent to the height of the air tubing in the 'classic' setup that Bean described. When the water covers the hole, the pipe converts to a siphon in both cases.
As far as the siphon channel goes, it should start up either with or without the hole. Either way, you have to have enough flow to flush any air down. I usually recommend just having the siphon channel open at the bottom of the overflow box. The main concern with that setup is that you have vortices form, entraining air into the pipe and causing noise or disrupting the siphon. That's potentially an issue with your setup, too, but doesn't appear to be with the combination of flow vertical drop and water depth you have.
Regardless, you are right that understanding the physics helps immensely in setting up the system. The best way to do that is frequently to set it up and play around. Nothing like letting experience teach you - as long as you don't experience a flood!
BlueRoofTang
New member
They all feed into the one 1.5" pipe, and go down to the basement. In other words, I have only two 1.5" pipes through the floor...one supply and one return. The siphon line had to be looped outwards to accommodate the trap, while keeping the spacing needed to go up into the overflow box.
One 1.5" pipe will flow more than twice what a 1" pipe will....and it'much harder to clog it than it is to clog two 1" pipes, because it would take a larger plug to do it.
True, the tubing isn't necessary at all. Actually, having the U pipe on it is really only there to help keep things quiet. Functionally speaking, all three pipes could be just straight up and open with no fittings on it and it will work the same....but may make more noise.
I see you have a pretty good understanding of how these work. :beer:
That said, I think the possibility of a vortex forming would be greater as the "inlet" point gets closer to the top of the water. I think that is the point you're making, correct?
I agree. once I got the pump going, I figured that, worse case, I could just pull one of the pipes out and it would drain down to the sump and not overflow the tank.
I really like this setup and would do it exactly the same if I had it to do over again. My last setup was a hang on style with siphon over the tank lip....never again will I do that. I had too many mishaps that resulted in a lot of shop-vac time. :headwalls:
Howdy gents and ladies....
Just got a new tank from glasscages with pre-drilled holes for a beananimal. Regretfully, they drilled the holes about an inch higher than the drawing I sent them.
SO here's my question....
1) What is the recommended (minimum) distance from the top of the emergency over flow to the top of glass? 1/2"????
2) How much distance is required from the top of the emergency overflow to the top of the syphons??
Trying to see if I can make this work.
240 gallon tank. Internal weir.
Thanks
Mark
Just got a new tank from glasscages with pre-drilled holes for a beananimal. Regretfully, they drilled the holes about an inch higher than the drawing I sent them.
SO here's my question....
1) What is the recommended (minimum) distance from the top of the emergency over flow to the top of glass? 1/2"????
2) How much distance is required from the top of the emergency overflow to the top of the syphons??
Trying to see if I can make this work.
240 gallon tank. Internal weir.
Thanks
Mark
GQsmooth
New member
What size hole did you drill in the U pipe? 1/4"?
danromero87
New member
Amazing set up!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Looks like somebody is trying to pad their post count... Try a little harder or the mods will kick you back to 0
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Honestly, somewhere between the two. It needs to be low enough that it has time to kick in before disaster. The larger the return pump, the faster disaster can happen. Remember, with a large return pump it may kick in on startup until the siphon stabilizes. At the same time it needs to be high enough to allow some operating bandwidth without kicking in.
