Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

If it were me, I would do it without worry. It's not going to impact the flow and I doubt it would increase the chance of a clogging over time. You could put a clean out at the drop if you wanted for extra peace of mind.
 
Ok so my Question is about gatevalve placement. I'm running a calflo overflow on a 2 ft high tank. The stand is 3 ft high. I would like to put my gatevalve about the bottom of the tank which is about halfway to the sump. I've read about it being ok at the top and bottom but cant find anything about how it works in the middle. The reason I'd like it there is I plan on switching to clear vynil tubing after the gatevalve and if I place it at bottom of tank/top of stand i can secure it very well to the stand. Any input is greatly appreciated.

The location of the valve doesn't seem to matter during normal operation.
It can cause minor differences with startup I believe but put it where you want to put it and don't look back..
 
In the BA overflow box esternal the syphon and the other drain are not at the same level.

Does in a C2C internal overflow, it is better to drill hole in the back at différent height ? The full syphon 1'' lower than the 2 others pipe ?

Thanks

All 3 bulkheads can be at the same height and thats how it was originally setup.. Some felt that the system worked more consistently when they had the full siphon lower but its not required at all..
 
If it were me, I would do it without worry. It's not going to impact the flow and I doubt it would increase the chance of a clogging over time. You could put a clean out at the drop if you wanted for extra peace of mind.

Thanks!
 
393 pages....wow. So I just got my tank and have been doing my leak tests with some dry fit plumbing. Got my BA overflow system installed and running. You'd think after I'd read 392 pages I'd know exactly how to get it working but instead I spent an hour scratching my head trying to work out why it wasn't working....UNTIL I remembered you had to tune the siphon with a valve...et voila!

My question is and I'm sure I read this 100 + pages ago...when the BA system is working as intended, the only sounds you should hear is water trickling down the non-siphon channel. Is that correct?

Also, I'm getting a few micro bubbles from the siphon into the sump...I'm guessing that's because somewhere I have an air leak in the plumbing along the line?

Thanks all...awesome and epic thread!
 
Hello!
After a 10 year break I’m finally back in the hobby again! :)

What sizeing of the pvc tubing would you guys recommend me? I’m planning on running a 23 g DT and a 20 g sump. I have an Aquabee Up 2000 that delivers 500 gph and I’m planning to use this as the return pump. The nozzle of the return pump is 16 mm inner and 22 mm outer fittings.

Really looking forward to get started in this awesome hobby again!
 
Getting ready to set up my 220 with a Beanimal overflow. The Weir box will run the entire length of the tank. I have read through and keyword searched through a lot of this thread but still have some questions. Thanks in advance for the help.

1. I plan to drill the center of my 1" bullheads at 3.5" below the top of the glass. How far down should the notches in my weir box be cut? Down to 2.5" from the top of the glass?

Another way to ask is how far apart should the center of my bulkheads and the bottom of the weird notches be?

2. Where is in the world would I find a 1" slip x 1-1/4" street 90? Can I just use a 1" street 90?

3. Should the bulkheads be slip x slip? Thread x Thread? Mix? If mix, which side thread/slip? If slip, should I use Oatey transition cement? If thread, should I use teflon?
 
Bulkheads. The side that faces inside the tank do not have to have a tight seal. The gasket against the glass takes care of that. For ease of removal slip is usually used. For the outside you need a tight seal, so you do not have a water leak. Threaded is what I use. I use Teflon tape. It works for me. I just dont like the Teflon paste.
 
Weir teeth. The depth of the teeth will dictate the height of the water in your tank. The amount of teeth and the spacing plus your return pump size will dictate the amount of resistance that will buildup against the teeth also effecting the water height in your tank. This will also effect the drain back into your sump when the return pump is off.
 
Finally put my system together but my siphon is introducing air into the sump. I have no fittings leaking air. I think my return pump provides too little flow though. Rated 240-400 gph. Can this be it? Gate valve is almost close.
 
Finally put my system together but my siphon is introducing air into the sump. I have no fittings leaking air. I think my return pump provides too little flow though. Rated 240-400 gph. Can this be it? Gate valve is almost close.
What height of head pressure on the pump and what size pipes are you using for the overflow?

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Height of head pressure is around 5 feet w several elbows for the return. My drains are 1”. Thinking about buying a Jecod DCP2500 or maybe the 5000. I’m not sure on How much water my return pump must be able to push!
 
Better to oversize the pump and need to throttle it back, than to buy a smaller pump and need more flow....

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Height of head pressure is around 5 feet w several elbows for the return. My drains are 1". Thinking about buying a Jecod DCP2500 or maybe the 5000. I'm not sure on How much water my return pump must be able to push!

Seems likely that you are not returning enough water to fill the 1" drain below the valve. A 1" fill siphon can handle about 960 gph.

I could not find a head loss chart for your pump but it seems like it would pump about 250gph at 5'. If that's the case, 1" seems like it would be too big.
 
Yes I’m thinking that is the problem as well. If I would have a stronger pump and maybe the valve half open would it still pull around 960 gph or is it less? I’m thinking about which pump to buy. :)
 
For the money, if you are going with a Jebao, I would just go with a 12000. It's not much more, but it gives you a ton of variability

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