Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Couple of quick questions for ya bean and co....

I am setting up a frag tank (50G) which will tie into my current setup (240G display/ 100G Sump / 30G Fuge). I plan on running no more than 500 gph through the overflow of the frag system.

Can I run 1" plumbing using only a siphon and emergency line? I know you used 1" bulkheads to 1 1/2 " but since this setup is not required to handle more than 500 GPH I thought 1" would be sufficient?

Thanks

1" plumbing is more than capable of handling a puny 500 gph. However, you need to use ALL three standpipes, or you will end up having to fiddle with it, due to variations in flow, which occur for a variety of reasons. You will want the open channel to be 1.25", however, as 1" open channels to work so good.

Jim
 
uncleof6, here lies the problem with using three bulk head fittings in the overflow....just dont have the real estate in the overflow compartment :(

Do you think I should bag the bean and put a plain old durso if I can't get the three? I was planning on using a gatevalve instead of a ballvalve which would give me slightly more control which I hoped would reduce variability.

The drain lines will be running no further than 6 feet to the sump with about 2 feet of drop.
 
It is sacrilegious to consider "durso" standpipes in this thread. Gate valve is better than a ball valve, but will not aid in reducing variability. The open channel takes care of the variability. Your options are to create more real estate, or use just the two standpipes, and deal with the variability. The curse of "reef ready" tanks.

Jim
 
I'm putting together a new system. If you were to start over and implement this system, what would be the best overflow method?

a.) Internal box with drilled bottom
b.) External box
c.) Just drill the back
d.) Internal box with the back of the tank drilled (box doesn't extend to the bottom of the tank.
 
I'm putting together a new system. If you were to start over and implement this system, what would be the best overflow method?

a.) Internal box with drilled bottom
b.) External box
c.) Just drill the back
d.) Internal box with the back of the tank drilled (box doesn't extend to the bottom of the tank.

It is really up to personal preferance I like the idea of drilling the back of the tank with an internal coast to coast overflow box seems the most "failsafe" I had thought about doing an external box but seemed like it would be more trouble then it would be worth since I would only be making up like an 1" on the internal box anyway. And with an external box you have another area for failure that being the silicone holding it on doughtful but possible.

So for me I like drilled back with interal coast to coast. (simple and effective)
 
It is really up to personal preferance I like the idea of drilling the back of the tank with an internal coast to coast overflow box seems the most "failsafe" I had thought about doing an external box but seemed like it would be more trouble then it would be worth since I would only be making up like an 1" on the internal box anyway. And with an external box you have another area for failure that being the silicone holding it on doughtful but possible.

So for me I like drilled back with interal coast to coast. (simple and effective)

Also depends if it is an acrylic or glass tank. Mine is acrylic so attaching an external overflow to the outside was not a major concern. I just finished water testing it last night, I'll post a picture tonight, I'm pretty happy with the results.
 
Thank you BeanAnimal for your contributions here. After months of delay, I'm going to be setting up a 40 breeder with your overflow design. I have a couple questions if you don't mind.

I don't plan on pushing no more than 400gph through the overflow, and am therefore thinking of going with 1" bulkheads and 1" piping throughout. Given the small size of the tank, how small can I go with a coast to coast overflow box?

Besides the john guest fitting and air tube on the second drain, is there any other difference with the siphon drain?
 
The siphon has a valve in the line to adjust the water level in the overflow box. That is the only other difference. Also, though 1" is fine for the siphon and emergency, would recommend a 1.25" open channel, as 1" on a 1" bulkhead does not work very well.

Jim
 
BeanAnimal I have read this thread as much as i could and I have a question.
I recently got a tank with two 1.5' holes drileed for a glass-box overflow.
I have the tank running and I am not happy with the amount of flow that I am limited to. My pump is exceeding the overflow so i have to dial down the pump so I don't over flow my tank.
Is there a way for me to modify what I have for our system somehow?
Here is what i have.
IMG_5796.jpg~original


And the glass-holes box that I got is this one.
http://www.glass-holes.com/1500-gph-complete-kit-gh1500kit.htm

Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
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Thank you for the input.
Are regular elbows ok instead of street elbows for the elbows in the overflow?

Can anyone give me overflow box sizing recommendations? I'm also trying to decide what type of valve to get for the siphon adjustment. Everyone seems to lean towards schedule 80, and it seems that gate valves are preferred, but I cannot find a true union schedule 80 gate valve?

The siphon has a valve in the line to adjust the water level in the overflow box. That is the only other difference. Also, though 1" is fine for the siphon and emergency, would recommend a 1.25" open channel, as 1" on a 1" bulkhead does not work very well.

Jim
 
Thought I would post a couple pictures of how my project is coming along. I just finished work on the first tank, will be starting on the second shortly.

1slotscut.JPG

Slots cut for overflow.

4overflowfitted.JPG

Overflow fitted.

6completedof.JPG

Completed overflow with extra bracing added.

tank1completed.JPG

Completed Tank.
 
Looking good! forgot about acrylic since the glue would be stronger then the silicone.

ya, it is absolutely rock solid. I'm still dealing with a few tiny leaks (real tiny) but I think I've resolved them. I will water test it one more time tonight to be sure. My seal on the bottom of the overflow was poor, the rest were great, guess where it leaked? hah.
 
I plan on drilling my tank this weekend,can someone please give me their opinion on overflow size before I drill?

Thank you for the input.
Are regular elbows ok instead of street elbows for the elbows in the overflow?

Can anyone give me overflow box sizing recommendations? I'm also trying to decide what type of valve to get for the siphon adjustment. Everyone seems to lean towards schedule 80, and it seems that gate valves are preferred, but I cannot find a true union schedule 80 gate valve?
 
Anen:
Just found you earlier post - 1" will work, but I think you will find 1-1/2" bulkheads that are reduced to 1"fittings in the overflow will work great. As for the size of the overflow - remember that the longer the overflow the better it will surface skim the tank. I have one that I love that is the length of the right end of the tank ( 36") and because of how my flow is set up - it works pretty well.

As well - you don't have to use gate valves...let alone sch 80 ( We are not working with any pressures that even come close to what sch 40 is built for)
I have been perfectly happy with the sch 40 TUBV's ( True Union Ball Valves) from Lowe's or Home Depot.
And regular 90's will work - but let me just add this thought:
The best scenario has been lain out plainly by Bean. Anytime you choose to compromise that design you run the risk of being less satisfied with the results.

I usually find that if I cannot justify adhering to a given method in reefkeeping ( or anything else in life) then maybe it is not the right method for me.

Not trying to frustrate you- trying to help you prevent frustration:thumbsup:

T
 
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