Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[Swope2bc]

Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

tap, tap, tap



Hello?



Is this thing on?



:spin2:

I have a 40b with a 40b basement sump. First I don't think the 12000 will give you the flow you desire at 12'. I'm running that pump and it's sufficient for me but I wish I had more and it's only a 40b! Go with the 15000. As to your question, will 1" plumbing handle it? Yes! It will handle even the 15000 with ease. I have my main siphon closed about 2/3 in order to keep adequate water level in the overflow box and stable tuning. Good luck with your build! Post a link to your thread so I can watch [emoji3]

Also, I came down tight to the outer wall and had a funny jog as soon as I cleared the floor... I used spaflex to remedy this and it worked fine...

 

[Rybren]

Thanks.

Are you running the new DCS-12000 or the older DCT/DC? The flow and energy consumption is supposedly much better and the max head is 6M. According to the Jebao flow charts, the flow at 3.5M is 4800 L/hr. Of course, I do expect it to be somewhat lower in real life. I haven't seen anyone selling a 15000.

No build thread yet, but I'll be tanking down my 75G

and my 10G

and moving everything into the 120G

 

[BeanAnimal]

tap, tap, tap

Hello?

Is this thing on?

:spin2:

The pump is likely to be very undersized....

That said, 1" pipe will work, but is not ideal in context to the open channel. The drop is likely to cause lensing as the water drops through the vertical pipe. This will create noise and/or a partial vacuum that may cause instability. For such a small flow, you should be fine. Larger pump... you need a larger open channel for that drop.

The adjustment valve for the siphon should be at the sump end of the standpipe.

 

[Rybren]

Thanks Bean.

My plan is to stick with 1 1/2" for the open channel and emergency and 1" for the siphon. I built a mock-up of my floor and area leading to the sump area. I really struggled with trying to get 4 x 1 1/2 pipes in the space.

Guess I'll need to start looking at a different pump - I haven't purchased anything yet.

 

[StrangeDejavu]

You can but I didn't. I just have the PVC go over the top of the rim.

+1. You can see them on my 40 breeder. I went this route because I wanted to personally control how much water is lost due to back siphon when the power goes out. I figured my 20 long would not be able to hold all the water if it were far enough under water to go through a bulkhead.

 

[Swope2bc]

Thanks.

Are you running the new DCS-12000 or the older DCT/DC? The flow and energy consumption is supposedly much better and the max head is 6M. According to the Jebao flow charts, the flow at 3.5M is 4800 L/hr. Of course, I do expect it to be somewhat lower in real life. I haven't seen anyone selling a 15000.

No build thread yet, but I'll be tanking down my 75G

and my 10G

and moving everything into the 120G

Mine is the Newer DCT. The 15000 can be ordered on Amazon.com for under $150. Beans next comment about keeping 1.5" is good though! My setup of dead silent upstairs but I do get some minor sound and bubbles at the sump...

 

[Rybren]

Thanks for the info.

I'll take a look at amazon.

 

[pdiehm]

Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

So something happened that has been happening recently and wanted to get some opinions.

My bean drain is set so I have just a smidge of water going down the open channel. It's silent.

When I wake up in the mornings the water level is at the top of the open elbow and water is rushing down that drain.

When I shut off the pump the water level rarely, if ever goes back to the level it was prior to the power shutoff. It's mostly always higher.

The outputs are roughly 1" below the water level in the sump with the emergency being about 4" above the water line.

1" bulkheads with 1.5" pvc drains

 

[pdiehm]

So something happened that has been happening recently and wanted to get some opinions.

My bean drain is set so I have just a smidge of water going down the open channel. It's silent.

When I wake up in the mornings the water level is at the top of the open elbow and water is rushing down that drain.

When I shut off the pump the water level rarely, if ever goes back to the level it was prior to the power shutoff. It's mostly always higher.

The outputs are roughly 1" below the water level in the sump with the emergency being about 4" above the water line.

1" bulkheads with 1.5" pvc drains

Not sure what happened, but this morning it was fine. last night, shut it off to feed. upon restart, opened valve all the way, then closed all the way, and about 1/4 open found the level, and it just takes some time to purge the air since it's very constricted with the gate valve being 3/4 closed (if not more). I know if a snail gets in there, the water level rises, which usually tells me there's a snail in there.

 

[MelloW33]

It could also be easily run from a tap off of the return pump. I have used both methods over the years, but to be honest, am not a refugium fan. My lasting impression was that it turned out to be nothing more than a detritus trap and something else to clean and maintain.

Elevate some live rock on your sump so that it can be EASILY cleaned under. Plenty of macro and micro fauna will live there, even in "high" flow. If you want macro algae export, then add a turf scrubber. Just my two cents.

I feel the same. I removed the fuge from my current re-build.

 

[pdiehm]

So, with a Sicce Syncra 5.0, 1" drains, and 1.5" drain piping, the gate valve is about 7/8 of the way closed in order to keep the Sicce and the drain in balance.

Is this normal?

Should I look into a stronger return pump that will allow me to open the gate valve more on the siphon pipe?

 

[uncleof6]

How long is the drop? @ 24" the max-theoretical capacity of a 1" bulkhead is 1660gph, with a practical limit of ~ 1500gph in 1.5" pipe. That sicce is not putting out near its max of 1321gph. This would tend to make for a small opening at the valve. Cleaning up the plumbing (reducing the friction losses) could help a bit.

What you should do depends on the size of the tank... I can tell you that a 7/8 closed valve is not exactly something I would want in my system. The capacity drops to ~1200gph with 1" pipe (assuming a 24" drop) and wide open valve. That could get your valve opened a bit more. On a tank larger than 120 gallons, I would bump the pump size up, as the 5.0 is not enough pump.

 

[Indusrty]

Anyone have an online source for the 1" to 1.25" street elbows that are supposed to be used on the tank side of the bulkheads? I've searched and come up with nothing.

 

[Spar]

Anyone have an online source for the 1" to 1.25" street elbows that are supposed to be used on the tank side of the bulkheads? I've searched and come up with nothing.

I got mine at home depot locally if that is an option for you. May try Savko otherwise though if prefer shipping.

 

[Indusrty]

Local HD and lowes both came up dry for me. I'll check out savko. Thanks.

 

[uncleof6]

Anyone have an online source for the 1" to 1.25" street elbows that are supposed to be used on the tank side of the bulkheads? I've searched and come up with nothing.

They are convenient indeed, but you don't HAVE to use them. You can use 1" ells and not lose much. Spears makes them, just it is uncommon part in use. Irrigation supply houses can come up with one for you. When it comes to the good stuff, the big box stores fall on their face....

 

[Indusrty]

Thanks uncle. Found then on a sprinkler supply site.

 

[Poseidon20000]

I'm setting a new 220 and I have an external overflow box with a full run C2C on the inside of the tank. The tank has 3, 2" bulkheads to drain into a 36" long external overflow. The overflow has 3, 1.5" holes ready for a beananimal style drain system.

I've been combing through thread after thread for hours/days and cannot find a clear answer as to the right plumbing parts needed for an external overflow. The drain holes are located at the bottom of the external overflow.

Will someone PLEASE point in the right direction!?! Is there an updated guide somewhere? I've seen people use p-traps, p-traps with cleanouts, street ells with 90's, parts using the airline tubing.... Etc.

Any help would be much appreciated. I've used the search tool on so many different keywords only to be more confused.

THANKS IN ADVANCED.

 

[Spar]

i have mine in an external overflow box as well with bulkheads at the bottom. it is the same concept you just build it upward rather than outward.

use varying lengths of PVC for each of the drain lines for the height of each inside the overflow box. I think I used something like 3.5" for the full siphon, 4" for the open channel, and 6" for the fail safe. That way the full siphon is lower than the other two. for the full siphon and open channel, just use a street-L on each, or 2 90's to create the L. The fail safe can simply be the PVC pipe with nothing on the end. at the top of the open-channel, drill a small hole (smaller than the one I drilled, but not sure it matters).

depending on how much space you have on yours, you may need to put the fail safe in the middle instead of side like a lot of the pictures in this thread show. that is what I had to do.

Here are views of my setup:

 

[Jani]

Questions about BA overflow system

Questions about BA overflow system

Hi Guys,

Sorry I just pop into the middle of this chatting but I would have a few questions about the Bean Animal overflow and pluming.

I'm just setting up a new reef system and I'm testing the Bean Animal "œdead silent" overflow how it works in my tank. I read lot of pages from this awesome thread and I have already got lot of answers for many questions but there are still more according to it.

As I read previously, it should have been about 15-30 sec to be absolutely silent the system after the water starts circulating. Is this correct, isn't it?
In my situation it takes about 3-4 min.

Dead silent means when I can't hear anything neither from the overflow box nor the sump (drains)?

The tank is a 680 Litre (5' x 2' x 800 mm LxWxH) with a 48 cm long overflow box only, instead of the c2c. (Is this problem according to the level of the noise?)

I'm using a 6000 L/hr Hopar BP-6000 return pump, which has max 4 m head hight. The distance between the pump and the surface of the display tank is 165 cm. I used 20 mm pipe for the return line and I have measured the return flow which is about 2400 L/hr only.

The three bulkheads, from the overflow box, are 25 mm in diameter which connect to 40 mm drain pipes. These standpipes are just 1.8 cm below the water level in the sump.

Most of the fitting and pipes are glued with PVC cement and I used tape as well. Between the T fitting and the bulkhead I used only sealant tape.

How much flow should return to the tank? More flow -with a stronger pump- would help me out?

Should I change the return pipe for a larger one? Would it help to fix the problem? (it helped to pdiehm if I'm correct)

Is that normal that the valve is almost totally closed? It can easily clogged in this stage.

Let me know if I forgot to mention any other details which would help to ID the issue why the noise could take too long until it will be quieter?

I have attached a website to where I uploaded pictures and videos about the system. Hope you guys can see and watch it...

https://www.dropshots.com/corydoras/date/2015-11-16

Thanks,
Jani