Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[cooleeo]

Hi everyone, New to the forum and what can I say about this thread? WOW!!!
I've read a large amount of this over the last few weeks/days and am quite honestly overwhelmed by the amount of info on this subject. I am planning to incorporate it on my next/current project...a 220 gallon freshwater frontosa tank with a 5'x2'x18" sump.
I will be installing a c2c 6"high x 5"wide external overflow box and plan to use a Jebao/jecod DCS9000 pump which will return approx. 1600 gph at a head height of 1.5metres. I intend to use 1.25" plumbing for all drains. I've got a solid grasp of how the system works and have seen how many have made their own little "modifications & tweeks", just looking for some first hand knowledge and experience of some of the more basic stuff as I've never run a sump before.

What size bulkheads and how many should I drill in the back panel of the tank? Or should I get a weir cut along almost the entire length of the back panel? Also does anyone see any flaws in the equipment or suggested plans I propose to use?
Sorry if these Q's have been asked before but trying to find the answers amongst almost 9000 posts is almost impossible if I am to get this project up and running before next summer. Any info or suggestions would be really appreciated.

 

[danrobberg]

You could use a reef synergy overflow. They make a 20 inch version that I believe is rated for over 2000 gallons per hour. You would only have to drill 2 holes in the tank and they give you a template to use and all the bulkheads needed are also included.

 

[danrobberg]

Question about the height of my drains in external overflow box. The water going down the drain is silent and tuned properly but the water going through the weir and into the overflow box is kind of noisy. I'm wondering if I make my drains taller this would increase the water level and quiet down the water entering the box. Any thoughts?

 

[Spar]

Question about the height of my drains in external overflow box. The water going down the drain is silent and tuned properly but the water going through the weir and into the overflow box is kind of noisy. I'm wondering if I make my drains taller this would increase the water level and quiet down the water entering the box. Any thoughts?

That is what i had to do. Try in 1/2" increments until you hit the sweet spot. I have the synergy reef overflows.

 

[danrobberg]

Awesome. Thanks

 

[EvMiBo]

I'm redoing my bean animal plumbing on my 135 in part because I just got a new sump. I also want to move the true union ball valve on the siphon drain lower, just above the sump (as I've read this purges air better when it restarts after a poweroutage, etc - makes sense). I currently have a waterblaster 7000lph, 1" drain bulkheads, and 1.5" drain pipe, and the ball valve is roughly halfway open/closed. I just bought a Jecod DCS12000 that I plan on running at 60-70%. The drop is about 5' and will only have 2 45degree elbows on each drain line after the sanitary tees.

- My new sump has three drain input fittings, but they're 1". I assumed I could just switch to 1" drain pipe but I don't know if it could handle the flow or not, thoughts?

- Would 1.5" drain piping reduced to 1" piping at the drain input fittings allow for higher flow? Or is that equivalent to just having all 1" drain pipe?

 

[hobbzz]

Getting ready to set thus up. I've read the article on the website. My question is about the incoming the website and the original info in the first few pages of this thread. Are those instructions still relevant or have there been some note worthy adjustments that would require reading through the whole thread? With my work schedule it would probably take me about a month or two to read the entire thing. I'd hate to do that (and more so, my wife) if no changes have been made to the original design. Thanks.

 

[Rybren]

I will be installing a c2c 6"high x 5"wide external overflow box and plan to use a Jebao/jecod DCS9000 pump which will return approx. 1600 gph at a head height of 1.5metres.

I just installed a DCS9000 on my new 120G build. The pump pushes a lot of water, but has a very noticeable hum to it. Definitely not a silent pump. The pump is running at power level 3.

I have an internal BA with a 40" long, 5"x4" internal C2C overflow using 1" bulkheads and 1 1/2" drain pipes. It handles the flow fine and even with the siphon closed, the open channel handles all of the flow with the emergency remaining dry. (The open channel doesn't even kick over to siphon).

If you do go with a BA, do yourself a favour and use a gate valve on the siphon. I couldn't source one locally and went with a gate instead - it is a real pain to adjust.

 

[thefuz]

Would like to clarify something regarding valve position on the siphon line for a basement sump setup. Is it better to place the siphon control valve above the sump in the basement or should it be located beneath the overflow?

I've upsized the pipe from 1.5" to 2" but this is probably overkill. I'm not sure the overflow can even handle more than 2500GPH [tried this weir equation: Q (i.e. flow) = 2/3 C L H sqrt(2 g H) using my overflow dimensions and it comes out around 2,600]. Hopefully this is underestimating but we'll see how it goes once I can start tuning.

 

[jason2459]

Valve as close to the sump as you can.

 

[EvMiBo]

I'm redoing my bean animal plumbing on my 135 in part because I just got a new sump. I also want to move the true union ball valve on the siphon drain lower, just above the sump (as I've read this purges air better when it restarts after a poweroutage, etc - makes sense). I currently have a waterblaster 7000lph, 1" drain bulkheads, and 1.5" drain pipe, and the ball valve is roughly halfway open/closed. I just bought a Jecod DCS12000 that I plan on running at 60-70%. The drop is about 5' and will only have 2 45degree elbows on each drain line after the sanitary tees.

- My new sump has three drain input fittings, but they're 1". I assumed I could just switch to 1" drain pipe but I don't know if it could handle the flow or not, thoughts?

- Would 1.5" drain piping reduced to 1" piping at the drain input fittings allow for higher flow? Or is that equivalent to just having all 1" drain pipe?

bump:thumbsup:

 

[Hybridhibrid]

I got a tank with three 3/4" bulkhead. The three 3/4" bulkhead with 1" pipes can work as Bean-Animal system ? I want handle 600-700 gph (freshwater). Pipe drop: 35". Thanks!

 

[MiddletoM]

Quick question,

i have 3x1.5" bulkheads on my external box. I take it i can just use 1.5" fittings and pipe, no need to reduce to 1". Am i right in thinking this?

 

[MiddletoM]

found the answer to my question above on page 218.

 

[huseMN]

Looking for a sanity check before I purchase Parts.....

I have a 75 Gallon peninsula tank I am looking to plumb to a basement sump 10-15 feet lower than DT.

Looking to go with Internal overflow. I will use 3- 1" bulkheads. Plumbed as Beananimal suggests.

I will use a panworld 150 return pump.

I am planning on using 1'' piping all the way to sump. Max flow of around (1200gph?) I will put a gate valve on the siphon drain just above where the pipe enters the basement sump.

I will use spa flex 1" (flexible PVC pipe) for all three drains. I will use 1.5" return back to the DT. Any issues using this type of piping?

If I plan on upgrading tank size in the future what would be the maximum tank size one would be comfortable with while using 1" piping? Assuming 3-6x turnover rate?

Anything else I am missing?

Thanks

 

[adamwheel]

Avoiding filter socks/fish death trap on full siphon:

I've posted a few times on this thread asking how to avoid filter socks on the full siphon. Bean and others replied with what they do to avoid the death trap but still keep clear water.

I've done a couple things that have given my DIY 178 gal SPS reef the clearest water I've had in a couple years and thought I'd quickly share here.

1. I purchased an Emperor Aquatics UV 40 Watt (sized for my aquarium). Found it used and paid about 50% that of retail. This helped a great deal with water clarity but the particles in the water were still annoying.

2. I've now installed a Cascade 1500 external canister filter (rated for 200 gal system) and it's made all the difference.

The water clarity is spectacular and fish can escape to the sump without harm when they get swept into the C2C overflow. I did create overflow covers that allow about 5/8" gap between water and covers but chromis and wrasses still find their way in at times.

I hope this helps someone.

Cheers,

Adam

 

[EvMiBo]

I'm redoing my bean animal plumbing on my 135 in part because I just got a new sump. I also want to move the true union ball valve on the siphon drain lower, just above the sump (as I've read this purges air better when it restarts after a poweroutage, etc - makes sense). I currently have a waterblaster 7000lph, 1" drain bulkheads, and 1.5" drain pipe, and the ball valve is roughly halfway open/closed. I just bought a Jecod DCS12000 that I plan on running at 60-70%. The drop is about 5' and will only have 2 45degree elbows on each drain line after the sanitary tees.

- My new sump has three drain input fittings, but they're 1". I assumed I could just switch to 1" drain pipe but I don't know if it could handle the flow or not, thoughts?

- Would 1.5" drain piping reduced to 1" piping at the drain input fittings allow for higher flow? Or is that equivalent to just having all 1" drain pipe?

bump:thumbsup:

Can anyone help me out?

 

[yoki32]

Is the Open Channel Standpipe suppose to spit out air bubbles once landing in the sump?

It says on Bean's website that "Because the flow is very low, very little air makes its way to the sump."

I am getting some large bubbles coming out and some of them enter my skimmer pump. Anyway to remedy this?

 

[woodnaquanut]

Is the Open Channel Standpipe suppose to spit out air bubbles once landing in the sump?

It says on Bean's website that "Because the flow is very low, very little air makes its way to the sump."

I am getting some large bubbles coming out and some of them enter my skimmer pump. Anyway to remedy this?

Perhaps you have too much flow in the OC? Try opening up the siphon valve a small amount.

 

[yoki32]

@woodnaquanut - Yeah that was the issue...it resolved my problem! Thanks I appreciate it!