Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[Rybren]

I'm putting together a 120G build with a basement sump. Drop from the tank to the sump will be about 12' and the return pump (Jebao DCS-12000) can deliver ~1100 gph at this height.

From Bean's calculator, I see that a 1" siphon can easily handle this flow. My question relates to the open channel and emergency; I'm not overly concerned about noise, but would 1" handle the flow? I know that I'd be okay with 1 1/2", but I'm trying to keep the hole in the floor to 4"x10" (so that if I move the tank, I can cover it with a hot air return vent) and the return pipe needs to be 1 1/2" or preferably 2"

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[pdiehm]

I have a piece of plastic netting (like BRS sells for tank covers) zip tied over the opening for my siphon channel. I'll try to come up with something better looking at some point, but this works well for now.

1.5" pipe is pretty large for 550-700 GPH; you could do 1" pipe and not have an issue. I think your slow startup purges are because the flow velocity in the siphon is relatively low, making it difficult to flush all the bubbles down.

Doc -

Looking into getting a pre-fab sump, like a trigger systems. They have 1" bulkheads where the drains go into the sump. If that happens, I may take the time, and re-do my drain lines, however, keep the open channel at 1.5"

Was looking at the plumbing last night, and wouldn't take but an hour or 2 to re-do it.

Thoughts on making my 1.5" drainlines and converting them to 1"?

If the cost to have the sump inlets moved from the left to the right is prohibitive, I'll more than likely have a short horizontal run on the siphon, but the plan is to put the gate valve literally above the sump inlet bulkhead.

 

[L33T]

I've been reading thru the posts, and haven't seen this question yet.

Is it okay to have the three outlets converge before entering the sump? The application would be a premade sump, such as the Eshopps RS-100, that has a single inlet.

Also, would this work with soft tubing? I am currently in a temporary apartment and plan on moving within a couple of years.

Thanks!

 

[rickztahone]

I've been reading thru the posts, and haven't seen this question yet.

Is it okay to have the three outlets converge before entering the sump? The application would be a premade sump, such as the Eshopps RS-100, that has a single inlet.

Also, would this work with soft tubing? I am currently in a temporary apartment and plan on moving within a couple of years.

Thanks!

It actually has been covered. You want the lines separate.

 

[L33T]

It actually has been covered. You want the lines separate.

I see. Thanks. So clearly that sump will not work. Looks like I'll need something with three inlets.

 

[rickztahone]

I see. Thanks. So clearly that sump will not work. Looks like I'll need something with three inlets.

Does it not have any more openings? Only the siphon needs to be below the water ~1". The other 2 can simply spill in to the tank at any section of the sump. However, the open channel line will flow water which might become noisy for you. I have mine below water due to this, but again, isn't a necessity.

 

[saltwaternoobie]

have read lots on this setup and havent found anything on returns , whats the best way to mount a return line from sump to main tank ?

 

[jason2459]

have read lots on this setup and havent found anything on returns , whats the best way to mount a return line from sump to main tank ?

PVC mounted same way as the drains and runs right along side them in my case. Used a union just above the return pump to be able to remove it for maintenance or replacement when needed.

 

[Spar]

i am setting up a bean animal drain (two of them actually) on my 450g. using 1.5" pipe both for dursos and for the main drain line to sump. my returns will be two Dart pumps.

My sump is setup with an independent section for a refugium. obviously it will require much less flow compared to what the main siphon line provides.

Any recommendation on how to supply water from the Bean Animal drain to partially supply the refugium (limited by a ball valve as well likely) and let the rest flow elsewhere into the sump?

My thoughts, not sure if it will work without causing issues (micro bubbles or other), is to split the 1.5" pipe off into a 1" and 1.5" split, putting a ball valve on the 1" and sending it to the fuge. Would 1" and 1.5" not work, maybe 1" and 1.25" instead perhaps?

 

[Spar]

Also, I have been feverishly searching for specs on how a Bean Animal would be setup with an external overflow box with bulkheads on the bottom -- i.e. i wouldn't be drilling into the side.

I see no reason why it wouldn't, but does it work exactly the same just with standard vertical dursos for each of the failsafe, full siphon and open channel? just making sure i'm not missing something critical in this thinking.

For reference I am using the Synergy Reef Overflow 20" box.

 

[jason2459]

I'm pretty sure it's been mentioned not to mess with the siphon. I know I wouldn't nor would I mess with splitting off the return line. Messing with either of those could easily throw them off and require them to be retuned. I wouldn't merge or split off anything. In emergencies you want the open to become a full siphon as well and you shouldn't have anywhere near enough flow through the open to be useful for any purpose if tuned properly.

 

[MelloW33]

i am setting up a bean animal drain (two of them actually) on my 450g. using 1.5" pipe both for dursos and for the main drain line to sump. my returns will be two Dart pumps.

My sump is setup with an independent section for a refugium. obviously it will require much less flow compared to what the main siphon line provides.

Any recommendation on how to supply water from the Bean Animal drain to partially supply the refugium (limited by a ball valve as well likely) and let the rest flow elsewhere into the sump?

My thoughts, not sure if it will work without causing issues (micro bubbles or other), is to split the 1.5" pipe off into a 1" and 1.5" split, putting a ball valve on the 1" and sending it to the fuge. Would 1" and 1.5" not work, maybe 1" and 1.25" instead perhaps?

I would run the refugium off of an independent pump.

 

[Rybren]

I'm putting together a 120G build with a basement sump. Drop from the tank to the sump will be about 12' and the return pump (Jebao DCS-12000) can deliver ~1100 gph at this height.

From Bean's calculator, I see that a 1" siphon can easily handle this flow. My question relates to the open channel and emergency; I'm not overly concerned about noise, but would 1" handle the flow? I know that I'd be okay with 1 1/2", but I'm trying to keep the hole in the floor to 4"x10" (so that if I move the tank, I can cover it with a hot air return vent) and the return pipe needs to be 1 1/2" or preferably 2"

Thoughts?

Thanks

As it turns out, I only have a 9" width to play with - the joists are laying on a steel beam and they are doubled-up; one going in each direction. There's no way 4 x 1 1/2" pipe fittings will fit in the space and give me any wiggle room, so I'll be using a 1" siphon line and 1 1/2" open channel, emergency and return.

I've been thinking about using 1 1/2" pvc electrical conduit sweeping elbows to bring the piping through the floor. It should minimize the disruption to the flow and would be a lot easier to plumb in the confined space than a bunch of 45* elbows. I've had one of these elbows in use for 6 years on my current tank, so I think it's safe to say that they are safe.

I guess the other option is to use a short section of spa-flex under the floor, but that stuff really isn't all that flexible.

Ideas/comments/concerns?

 

[saltwaternoobie]

PVC mounted same way as the drains and runs right along side them in my case. Used a union just above the return pump to be able to remove it for maintenance or replacement when needed.

Not to sound stupid but will ask anyways ! Do I need to drill another hole in the glass tank and add a bulkhead and return nozzle ?

 

[Spar]

I would run the refugium off of an independent pump.

good idea, thats what i will do. as indicated above, i'm not going to mess with splitting.

i already have a manifold setup with the darts so can easily adapt it to the 'fuge. i.e. no additional heat from an extra pump is even necessary.

 

[jason2459]

Not to sound stupid but will ask anyways ! Do I need to drill another hole in the glass tank and add a bulkhead and return nozzle ?

You can but I didn't. I just have the PVC go over the top of the rim.

 

[rickztahone]

Not to sound stupid but will ask anyways ! Do I need to drill another hole in the glass tank and add a bulkhead and return nozzle ?

If that is what you want. I went up and over the rim, but this isn't an option to some. I used schedule 80 to go up and over to be more discreet.

 

[jason2459]

Schedule 40 here and used 45 elbows every where
Return on the far left with union

 

[saltwaternoobie]

Thanks for all the info ! I appreciate that ! I was only asking as the bean animal is all on drains and not on returns ....granted its simple enough ! One less hole to drill is good in my mind !

 

[jason2459]

Thanks for all the info ! I appreciate that ! I was only asking as the bean animal is all on drains and not on returns ....granted its simple enough ! One less hole to drill is good in my mind !

Good luck and I hope you have better plumbing skills then I. HA!

As you can see I was very liberal with solvents and miss cut a few times needing couplers and didn't get angles right so had to get another elbow in there... etc. It works and now I'm happy.