Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[lapin]

The reason I want to know is so I can make sure my overflow is deep enough to create enough pressure for the siphon to flow enough. If it's not deep enough, I want to correct it now.

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In my coast to coast with the bean. My siphon pipe, the horizontal part is 1/2 inch below the water level in my overflow. You will get some sucking from the full siphon and can it cause a vortex. This can suck in air making noise if its not deep enough.
My open channel, its taller than the siphon pipe. It has the water level about 1/4 the way up on the horizontal part.

Maybe this will help.

One other note; My C2C box is 12" deep. I could have made the water level deeper in the box by making taller pipes. Which would have made the weir drop less. This would have made it a little quieter. Maybe a redo down the road.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

^^ yep... open the gate valve on the full siphon until water only trickles through the open channel.. or if you want to keep water in the overflow at 3/4, then simply raise the inlet of the open channel so that water only trickles.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Just started my tank last night. Using a modular marine overflow box. Full siphon drain is fully operational (Emperor voice) but it sounds like water is rushing through my open channel.

The water is about 3/4 of the height of the pass through bulkheads (tank to overflow box) and the water level is about 1/2 way up the open channel U.

Is it as simple as I have the water level too high?

yep just as lapin has said... open the gate valve on the full siphon until water only trickles through the open channel.. or if you want to keep water in the overflow at 3/4, then simply raise the inlet of the open channel so that water only trickles

 

[IUfan]

Thanks guys. That's fixed that noise.

Anyone got any tips to reduce the noise as the water passes through the bulkhead connecting the tank to the box?


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[Sisterlimonpot]

Thanks guys. That's fixed that noise.

Anyone got any tips to reduce the noise as the water passes through the bulkhead connecting the tank to the box?


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Only thing that worked for me was to have the bulkheads submerged under water. If you can adjust the gate valve on the siphon and then adjust the open and emergency accordingly, that should fix the noise.

 

[Lsufan]

Yea, I find it to be quiet when the water level is about 1/2 way up the bulkheads. In your case u may have to raise the standpipe for the open channel. If u raise the water level u will be back to where u started with the open channel taking to much water. So u will have to raise the standpipe & the water level

 

[Lsufan]

A good way to test it out is to raise the standpipe for the open channel to where it isn't taking any water at all. Then slowly raise the water level inside of the box until u can't hear the water passing through the bulkheads. Then u will know where the water level will need to be so u will know where u need to set the height of the open channel. The higher the flow the higher the water level will have to be, but I find it is usually about 1/2 way up the bulkheads.

 

[Lsufan]

If I go with a C2C and BA overflow, where are the return(s) normally routed back into tank?

I'm not fancying pipes coming over the top. Mind you given i'm having a trim on top as opposed to rimless, maybe I can route through trim.

Also I'm thinking gyre in the middle rear, so would split return either rear corner be suitable?

Think I should move to a separate Noobie Tank setup thread, as I'm starting to stray from the subject in hand and have so many questions still.

If u go a full c2c u will have to go over the top with the returns. U can route them through the overflow box but then u would have to make the overflow box bigger to be able to do so. I always stop my over box 4" or so from both ends of the tank & drill my returns in that area. To me it also looks better if u can view the tank from the end panel. So u would need a 4 sided box instead of a L shape box. For example, if the tank is 48" long make the overflow box 40" long & leave 4" on both ends for the returns.

 

[IUfan]

If I raise the height of the siphon drain inside the box. Will that help me raise the water level height?


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[Djbeasley05]

If I raise the height of the siphon drain inside the box. Will that help me raise the water level height?


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The valve on the siphon i is what determines the height of water in the overflow


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[DougSupreme]

The valve on the siphon i is what determines the height of water in the overflow


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No. The height of the open channel does

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[Lsufan]

If I raise the height of the siphon drain inside the box. Will that help me raise the water level height?


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No, like he said the valve is what will actually set the water level. The open channel & your pass through holes is what will determine where u want to set the water level. Now that u have a idea of where the water level needs to be relative to the open channel for it to be quiet it should be pretty easy. Now all u need to do is determine how high the water level needs to be on the pass thru bulkheads for that to be quiet. Then set the height of the open channel at that height. Personally, I would set height of the open channel to where the water level will be at about the 1/2 way point on the bulkheads & u should be fine. So being u have determined where the water level needs to be on the open channel for it to be quiet, set that point of the open channel standpipe about 1/2 way on the pass thru bulkheads.

 

[IUfan]

No, like he said the valve is what will actually set the water level. The open channel & your pass through holes is what will determine where u want to set the water level. Now that u have a idea of where the water level needs to be relative to the open channel for it to be quiet it should be pretty easy. Now all u need to do is determine how high the water level needs to be on the pass thru bulkheads for that to be quiet. Then set the height of the open channel at that height. Personally, I would set height of the open channel to where the water level will be at about the 1/2 way point on the bulkheads & u should be fine. So being u have determined where the water level needs to be on the open channel for it to be quiet, set that point of the open channel standpipe about 1/2 way on the pass thru bulkheads.

It seems that I have to have the water level quite high in order to limit the noise from the pass through bulkhead. It's around 3/4 of the diameter of the pass through bh. (See pics) is this okay?

The issue is that the open channel sits so high that I will need to remove the air line for it to fit.

I've since removed this JG fitting from the top and left it as an open hole, will it be okay left like this?


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[Sisterlimonpot]

Yes, that's perfectly fine,

Mine sits under the water and is 100% quiet.

 

[Lsufan]

As long as the water inside of the box doesn’t build up enough to cover the hole on startup it shouldn’t be a problem. If the hole gets submerged on startup it will empty the box before there’s enough pressure to purge the air from the syphon. If that happens u can install the j guest fitting back into the 90 & that will by u a little more room on startup.

I would rather not use the fitting in your scenario, so if the hole doesn’t get submerged on startup I would leave it how it is without the fitting. The airline itself isn’t a must on a exterior box like u have. They are a must with a interior box like bean used when he designed the setup

 

[Camarofish]

Hey guys. I recently purchased a 210 reef ready tank which uses the old durso overflow. I will have my sump in the basement directly below the tank. This would be ~11' drop. I'd like to convert this to the AnimalBean overflow. It is the typical 2 overflows on the back...each with 2 - 1" bulk heads. Does anyone think that I can just convert this to the AnimalBean system? Run one 1" hole as the return, the hole next to it as the primary, then the other 2 - 1" holes as the secondary and emergency? I'm thinking 1" return and all 3 drains @ 1.25". The pump in the basement is a ReeFlo Dart/Snapper.

Edit: I think I just answered my own question...the second overflow would make this a non option. Time to drill baby, drill.

 

[Djbeasley05]

Hey guys. I recently purchased a 210 reef ready tank which uses the old durso overflow. I will have my sump in the basement directly below the tank. This would be ~11' drop. I'd like to convert this to the AnimalBean overflow. It is the typical 2 overflows on the back...each with 2 - 1" bulk heads. Does anyone think that I can just convert this to the AnimalBean system? Run one 1" hole as the return, the hole next to it as the primary, then the other 2 - 1" holes as the secondary and emergency? I'm thinking 1" return and all 3 drains @ 1.25". The pump in the basement is a ReeFlo Dart/Snapper.

There would be no benefit of 1.25" drains if the bulkheads are 1". Other than that, you can setup a bean animal system as long as you have 3 drains.


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[Sisterlimonpot]

Hey guys. I recently purchased a 210 reef ready tank which uses the old durso overflow. I will have my sump in the basement directly below the tank. This would be ~11' drop. I'd like to convert this to the AnimalBean overflow. It is the typical 2 overflows on the back...each with 2 - 1" bulk heads. Does anyone think that I can just convert this to the AnimalBean system? Run one 1" hole as the return, the hole next to it as the primary, then the other 2 - 1" holes as the secondary and emergency? I'm thinking 1" return and all 3 drains @ 1.25". The pump in the basement is a ReeFlo Dart/Snapper.

Edit: I think I just answered my own question...the second overflow would make this a non option. Time to drill baby, drill.

If the overflows are on opposite corners and separate from each other, they will operate independently. So whichever overflow has the full siphon with the gate valve will have higher water levels and the other side will just drain naturally.

So you're stuck with having to drill or you can research the Herbie overflow system. It only requires 2 drains and is just as quiet. The only down side is that it uses 2 drains, the second drain takes on the task of the open and emergency.

Perhaps having 2 sets of herbie will be a lot of redundancy (which is why the bean animal is so popular), not sure how hard it would be to dial in 2 full siphons that share the load, but it will prevent you fro drilling.

 

[Camarofish]

There would be no benefit of 1.25" drains if the bulkheads are 1". Other than that, you can setup a bean animal system as long as you have 3 drains.


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Yes, that is why I am leaning towards plugging the original holes and then doing it the right way, by drilling new/larger holes. I'd rather be on the overkill side than the "I wish I'd..."

So, I'm thinking doing a coast-to-coast with the BeanAnimal overflow. Do you think that 1.25 spaflex is okay or should I opt for the 1.5"? I would imagine that a 1" return is adequate?

 

[Camarofish]

If the overflows are on opposite corners and separate from each other, they will operate independently. So whichever overflow has the full siphon with the gate valve will have higher water levels and the other side will just drain naturally.

So you're stuck with having to drill or you can research the Herbie overflow system. It only requires 2 drains and is just as quiet. The only down side is that it uses 2 drains, the second drain takes on the task of the open and emergency.

Perhaps having 2 sets of herbie will be a lot of redundancy (which is why the bean animal is so popular), not sure how hard it would be to dial in 2 full siphons that share the load, but it will prevent you fro drilling.

Appreciate the response. The reason I want to go AnimalBean is that my wife will probably divorce me if I have another flood. haha I too thought about the 2 herbie thing, but seems like a PITA to get them dialed in.