SMB2415 550g (84x36x42) build

Whew!! after a looong week of making RO and salt water the tank is finally running. Coming up to temp now. So heres the latest work done.

1) aquascaping - used a combination of threaded rod, fiberglass driveway stakes (for plowing), and some PVC. Once the sand storm cloud settles I'll take photos.

2) wired the humidistat for the canopy/fish room fans and the temp controller. i really like these little LED units from amazon @ $20/each.

3) finalized the sump/return/fuge plumbing. There will be a 29g ATS, 29g cryptic DSB, 20g cryptic rubble tanks. Also about 180g combo of live rock-fuge-frag-quiet tank which has not been built yet.
 
Washing 700+ lbs of sand and the salt ready to go

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aquascaping - I decided to go with 2 structures with a passage between and a small bridge to a column. Here are my inspiration photos.

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here are the crude photos of my aquascape in construction. Notice the grid layout on the tank - I took the tip from a forum on RC about aquascaping and design concepts. Also the photos show the pieces taken apart with the support and attaching structures shown. Due to height restrictions over my tank (~18") my structures had to be able to be taken apart and reassembled in the tank. I also wanted to be able to take apart if ever needed.

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This is my digital heater controller and humidistat controllers. They are $20 each on amazon. The heater controls the custom hot water recirc pump and the humidistat controls the canopy and fish room exhaust fans. The only thing I don't like is that the temp is only in Celsius. they are mounted in faceplate I made from a double switch plate.

You can also see the custom project box partially shown in the lower photo. Both devices, fans, and heater are powered from a single outlet and are well under a 10amp load.

a>
 
WHew... glad to see that jack under the tank is gone. For a moment I thought you were going to have it holding the tank up as a permanent piece of it!

Looks good though! I don't envy you if you need to get your arm in there to clean anything near the bottom though :D

BTW do you have a part number for that heater/humidistat controller?
 
Looking good.. Like that bridge in your rock formation... Have you decided on number of pumps and locations yet?
 
pump locations

pump locations

Osama said:
Looking good.. Like that bridge in your rock formation... Have you decided on number of pumps and locations yet?
Click to expand...

I had a mishap the other day when an MP60 fell off the tank and dropped in to the sump. Not sure why it fell as it was on there for a week. After I applied power it detached and fell....sending out for repair.

The returns are spaced along the top sides with 3 per side. Both end returns are split into a 3/4" loc-line Y. The middle will be connected to a sea-swirl that will operate on a tidal schedule. The idea being that during tidal change the sea-swirl will act as a mixed tide. Then when the mid-tide stops whatever direction the swirl is in is the current tide -incoming to outgoing. Its an idea, not sure if its practical.

I am also using MP60 on each end. The one closest to the overflow will be placed in the lower 1/3 of the tank and centered. The other end will be placed in the upper 1/3 (just low enough so that it doesn't suck air at 100%) and centered.

Any additional flow will be created by mp40's along the sides. I do not have these yet so I'll have to wait to see if they're needed.
 
@nanoohio - the tank was used but I don't believe it ever saw more than tap water. Almost like it was put in a store and the store closed prior to it going on-line. Very clean and no signs of residue even in the depths of the old finger overflow. It was advertised for $2400 and I paid $1000.
 
The jack in the photos was there to help level the tank and stand prior to water. It also assisted me in raising the tank as I put it place by myself (from the dollies).
 
smb Your flow patterns sound intriguing. I am not using sea swirls on my new setup but used them & loved them in my previous 180 & 320 g tanks. Coordinating them on a tidal schedule sounds quite interesting
MP60s: They do drop as the provided sticky thing is not adequate for the energy of the pumps. Mine ( I have 4) do also fall and I am now starting to tie them up with a string/wire to OH pipes so they do not fall and break or break something else...
Good idea to wait and see if you need more flow. MP 60 are quite the power and sometime I think maybe I only needed MP40s but good to have the extra flow capability...
 
Amazon is where I purchased the heater and humidity controllers for $20 each. I purchased a hobby box from radio shack and made my relay to 120v connections in there. I have one computer power cord feeding both controllers, exhaust fan and heater recirc pump.

Heat/Cooling (has 2 relays)
Elitech 110V All-Purpose Temperature Control Controller with Sensor 2 Relay Output Thermostat Stc-1000
http://www.amazon.com/Elitech-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1388446508&sr=8-6&keywords=stc+1000

Humidity
IMAGE® 110V Digital Air Humidity Control Controller WH8040 Range 1%~99% RH HM-40 Type
http://www.amazon.com/IMAGE®-Digital-Humidity-Control-Controller/dp/B009VY1ANM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388446655&sr=8-1&keywords=humidistat+controller
 
@Obama - I plan on using some black nylon or heavy fishing line to secure the dry sides from falling. I was so ticked that the $$ pump did that without even a minute of use. Oh well stuff happens.
 
Just picked up LED lighting, well at least the start of it.

(1) GHL Mitra 6200HV will be the 1st unit for the DT. I'll prob need 3-4 of these.

(1) Reefbreeder value series for the frag/quiet/fuge tank which will be under the main DT.
 
Water is up to temp 26c, humidity is around 48% in my basement above the tank. I set the heater to allow for .5 degree before starting and a 3min cycle time. The humidity although not connected to a fan yet is set to come on at 45% and 5min cycle/compressor time.


To kick off the cycle and clear the water:
I added a BRS felt filter sock with 4 uncooked shrimp.
(2) large bottles of bio-spira (figured why not? maybe it works maybe it doesn't)
(3 cups) of activated carbon in a mesh bag placed in the overflow box.
(~40lb) cured live rock from my established (since may) 40breeder tank
and I used about 30g of water from the same 40breeder

Once the water settles I'll take a few more pics. Although seeing my unfinished basement around the tank is frustrating It'll have to wait.
 
Here are some updated photos of the fish closet. The tank on the lower right will be an ATS/Cheato. The upper right is cryptic rubble. Upper left is cryptic DSB. Lower black tub is strictly sump/plumbing.

The yet to be built tank under the DT will have 3 compartments. Live Rock, Quiet tank/fuge, and Frag. I figure the quiet tank will be good as a time-out for those behaving badly. I intend these to be secondary displays although I may not always have them on shown. The stand facade will be removable to permit this flexible style.

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just checked ammonia and nil, nodda, zilch...... probably the only time I'll ever wish for it to read.

Also hooked up APEX. so far only getting temp and PH. this will take awhile to program and setup as I want. I am considering using a bank of contactor relays so I limit the amount of amps and wear on the APEX power bar.
 
:( no ammonia again today. So I put 4 raw shrimp in yesterday and when I checked this morning they are cooked...lol yup they turned that orange shrimp cocktail color. 2 of them have started breaking down but ton traces of Ammonia yet. If there's no ammonia tomorrow I'm going to add more shrimp or I might have a filet of sole (piece of it). I don;t think its possible to not have at least a mini-cycle.

Meanwhile the DT is now crystal clear. Adding the carbon helped clear things up quicker.
 
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