The true Mexican horn is difficult to find. I spoke to a wholesaler yesterday who said that he cannot get them. It have only seen one. They are less attractive and look like a wide bamboo shark with the horns. The California horn from Mexico is a possibility. These are occasionally pop up on the Diver's den site. There is a RC unsponsored store in the US that breeds them and sells the pups. It may be worth a call to them to see what temperature they are being kept in.
So you want to buy a shark? (Shark primer)
- Thread starter alprazo
- Start date
Hello,
I am wanting try something other then reef and sharks/rays are right up my alley. I understand they need space. But could I start my shark and ray dream in a 180 gallon then trade them out or upgrade down the road if not what's and bare min for starting. I would like to have a zebra moray, Cortez stingray, and maybe a shark I know a 180 is small in the long run and I need a good skimmer.
What's the best beginner shark?
I can have any tank 6 foot long to start?
But I want every thing happy!
Thanks for your time it means a lot
I am wanting try something other then reef and sharks/rays are right up my alley. I understand they need space. But could I start my shark and ray dream in a 180 gallon then trade them out or upgrade down the road if not what's and bare min for starting. I would like to have a zebra moray, Cortez stingray, and maybe a shark I know a 180 is small in the long run and I need a good skimmer.
What's the best beginner shark?
I can have any tank 6 foot long to start?
But I want every thing happy!
Thanks for your time it means a lot
Most LFS dont sell adult sharks, they sell them as hatchlings, yearlings and sub-adults. The True Cat sharks, like the Coral, Bali, Macleayi, and cool water species, are the most size suitable for a 6x2 foot tank. As juveniles they can be very small, sometimes sold from 4"-5" inches and up. The 3 tropical Cat Sharks i listed, average about ~24" as adults, but are more active during feeding and at night, then Bamboo sharks and other Carpet sharks. So even though the size is more appropriate, the activity level perhaps nullifies that.
So a juvenile shark, of no more than 10-11 inches, IMO, would be comfortable in a standard 180.
Dont count on returning the shark or selling it, because most LFS dont have the space to house bigger specimens, and trying to sell a shark can take time.
Its better to have the aquarium and life support that will maintain the shark for its entire life before you actually buy the shark itself.
So a juvenile shark, of no more than 10-11 inches, IMO, would be comfortable in a standard 180.
Dont count on returning the shark or selling it, because most LFS dont have the space to house bigger specimens, and trying to sell a shark can take time.
Its better to have the aquarium and life support that will maintain the shark for its entire life before you actually buy the shark itself.
So I can start my shark and ray dream in a 180 then upgrade is that right?
You can...... If you have 6 ft, you are better off going with an 6 ft round stock tank. Griseum is correct, the coral catsharks are more active than some of the bamboos and this has to be considered. I personally think the epaulette is best suited for a tight environment since they often walk instead of swim. They get a little larger though and are much more expensive because of where they come from.
Eppies are a fantastic shark! They walk most of the time rather than swim. They are better if size is a constraint. As Alprazo stated they arent available as frequently because of their locale.
PNG eppies, if you can find them, are smaller as well. They are however rarer and more costly i believe.
H. hallstromi
PNG eppies, if you can find them, are smaller as well. They are however rarer and more costly i believe.
H. hallstromi
TBH, if size is an issue at all, sharks are best left alone
The goal is not to get the smallest tank possible to house the shark. The goal is to get the BIGGEST tank you can get and then purchase smaller sharks that feel extremely comfortable in that aquarium.
You want your shark to thrive, not barely survive.
This is why i have given up on "swimming sharks". I have a lagoon that can and has housed them, and ive had some pretty outrageous, in retrospect, sharks live in it, ie. Lemon, BTR, even smoothhounds and etc.
But with time and experience i believe that this is an unrealistic practice.
Now i look at my lagoon and see that it is really perfect for adult carpet sharks.
The goal is not to get the smallest tank possible to house the shark. The goal is to get the BIGGEST tank you can get and then purchase smaller sharks that feel extremely comfortable in that aquarium.
You want your shark to thrive, not barely survive.
This is why i have given up on "swimming sharks". I have a lagoon that can and has housed them, and ive had some pretty outrageous, in retrospect, sharks live in it, ie. Lemon, BTR, even smoothhounds and etc.
But with time and experience i believe that this is an unrealistic practice.
Now i look at my lagoon and see that it is really perfect for adult carpet sharks.
agreed
G4546
New member
Heya Alprazo, I have a question (or two 
). I currently have two brown banded bamboo sharks that I hatched out over a period of about 4-5 months. One is male and the other is female Both eggs were purchased about 2 months apart at different stages of development. My question is, now that they are eating (quite well at that 
) they seem or appear to be "happy"... though, I was wondering why they both prefer to lay directly in front of the powerheads I have placed at the bottom of the tank to keep the bottom (BB) free of debris. My second question is based off of their swimming "pattern" if you will. The male (the larger at about 11in now) swims extremely erratic, thrashing into rocks head first and "flicking" randomly throughout the day. I know the questions will be based off of other information that I am more than willing to supply Ask away and let's see if myself as well as others can learn something! These are my babies and are currently being "prep'd" for the move to a 240 cube (4x4x2). My concern is the erratic swimming they both demonstrate. During feeding they will come to the top of the tank and thrash about through the chalices and acroporas, digging under rocks for lost krill the H. magnifica didn't grab, but why this behaviour during non feeding times. As well, the larger male is already making the change from white bands to his more mature casual look of khaki or "brown"
Thank you in advance and for directing me to share public
-
G
). I currently have two brown banded bamboo sharks that I hatched out over a period of about 4-5 months. One is male and the other is female Both eggs were purchased about 2 months apart at different stages of development. My question is, now that they are eating (quite well at that ) they seem or appear to be "happy"... though, I was wondering why they both prefer to lay directly in front of the powerheads I have placed at the bottom of the tank to keep the bottom (BB) free of debris. My second question is based off of their swimming "pattern" if you will. The male (the larger at about 11in now) swims extremely erratic, thrashing into rocks head first and "flicking" randomly throughout the day. I know the questions will be based off of other information that I am more than willing to supply Ask away and let's see if myself as well as others can learn something! These are my babies and are currently being "prep'd" for the move to a 240 cube (4x4x2). My concern is the erratic swimming they both demonstrate. During feeding they will come to the top of the tank and thrash about through the chalices and acroporas, digging under rocks for lost krill the H. magnifica didn't grab, but why this behaviour during non feeding times. As well, the larger male is already making the change from white bands to his more mature casual look of khaki or "brown" Thank you in advance and for directing me to share public
-
G
I can answer some of your questions. I apologize if you only want to hear from Alprazo
EDIT: I should have thought of this originally, especially after deducing the sharks are in a reef tank. Reef tanks commonly have much more ELECTRICAL equipment associated with them compared to FO, on average. You should make doubly sure that there is no stray current. Sharks have an affinity to detecting electromagnetic fields and electric current through the use of their organ called Ampullae of Lorenzini. This organ can detect the the magnetic (electric) field given off by other living things a.k.a fish and other prey items in their surrounding waters. In aquaria, the use of electronic devices such as powerheads, perhaps not vortechs where its mostly external, may drive a sharks sense wild resulting in erratic swimming. There is some debate as to whether the use of a grounding probe is beneficial or not. Some say it gives stray current exactly what it needs to create a circuit, whereas others say the sharks/fish are better off without the probe because they (sharks) are not grounded themselves so they wont feel it. But it does get picked up by their AOL. Something to check, thats all. May actually nullify everything below.
IME sharks lay in front of pump outlets and powerheads because being that they have evolved with the ability to not have to swim in order to breathe much like "swimming sharks" or obligate ram ventilators that must stay in motion to pass water through their mouth and out there gills. The bamboos take advantage of the pumping water to help aerate there gills as they lay motionless. Its not a complete mechanism of breathing but it does aid.
Your second question:
I have noticed when i move larger sharks into smaller tanks for Quarantine. The erratic swimming pattern and Im guessing you may also see the shark roll over as he swims forward? I believe this to either be a DO problem, a PH problem, a lack of space OR the original reason they were being QTed and that is parasites (Keep reading...). When the large sharks were returned to there original dwelling, the behavior stopped.
You also mentioned flitting or flashing? This might indicate a gill fluke or nematode, a parasitic copepod, or basically just some type of villain. An external parasite may also indicate the rolling or abnormal swimming pattern. He may be trying to rid himself of something on his dorsal or pectoral side. If this is the case than i would dose him with Praziquantel immediately. It sounds like you have him in a reef? I believe in my experience that prazi is reef safe. I recently dosed it on my big shark breeding system, which has Macro algae tanks that contain soft corals and a plethora of Inverts Ive been collecting with no harm done, not even a closing of polyps on the softies. You may not want to take that risk, but if flukes are in your tank, and this has been going on for a while, than a tank bath may be best. Otherwise QT the shark and dose Prazi as directed for 3-5 days, then do a 100% WC and if he needs another treatment, do it for another 3-5 days. This has eradicated plenty of parasites in my experience and it usually shows instant relief. But during this treatment make sure to provide plenty of aeration if you do it in a QT. You must shut your skimmer down and remove carbon. Shutting the skimmer lowers your DO and the viscous Prazi lowers DO/ORP slightly as well, so adding airstones is a must, as well as surface agitation by aiming a Powerhead at the surface to create some turbulence for gas exchange.
In retrospect, its best to purchase yearlings, rather than hatchlings and eggs. This is due to the fact that soo many eggs end up not hatching, or they hatch and never take to food, which ends in a long term force-feeding that even still sometimes ends in death. The other reason not to purchase eggs is based on factual data. So many sharks make it through the hatching phase but are not suited for living. As is the case with human babies and all sorts of live-bearing and egglaying animals. Look at the mortality rate with egg laying fish! Some fish eggs only have a 10% success rate of making it through metamorphosis and into juvenile stages. It may be an abnormality internally thats only viewed through a necropsy, or just some genetic abnormality period. As you said, it seems like your bamboo shark is not seeing correctly, has this always been the case? or is it morre recent? Some flukes and parasites can also attack the eyes. Is there anything visible on the eyes? Are they cloudy?
Do you have a very rigid photoperiod? Too much actinic light? A majority of actinic lighting over your tank, can damage any animals eyes permanently, (in general lol)
Please explain a little bit more about your system including tank length and width and tankmates, etc, as well as parameters and your source for the eggs? Also, do you have a suitably sized QT that you could remove the sharks into for treatment if thats what you decide to do?
Thanks.
EDIT**: I answered a lot of my own questions, ie., photoperiod, actinics, etc,etc by deducing that you have chalices and acropora, which would indeed indicate a reef tank. In addition there is a very good shark forum out there on the vast Interweb. PM for the address. A lot of experienced shark/ray keepers and a lot of your questions may already be answered there.
Even though you are upgrading to a 240, this will not house the sharks for very long. The species you happen to have, grows to a very large average adult size. Give or take they become three feet long and have a very large body mass. Even at around 2 feet they weigh more than a tank full of large bony fish combined. Just something to ponder, how much longer you will be able to care for them and if you have the option to purchase a larger tank. Check out that other website Im referring you too for tank size recommendations.
Good Luck
EDIT: I should have thought of this originally, especially after deducing the sharks are in a reef tank. Reef tanks commonly have much more ELECTRICAL equipment associated with them compared to FO, on average. You should make doubly sure that there is no stray current. Sharks have an affinity to detecting electromagnetic fields and electric current through the use of their organ called Ampullae of Lorenzini. This organ can detect the the magnetic (electric) field given off by other living things a.k.a fish and other prey items in their surrounding waters. In aquaria, the use of electronic devices such as powerheads, perhaps not vortechs where its mostly external, may drive a sharks sense wild resulting in erratic swimming. There is some debate as to whether the use of a grounding probe is beneficial or not. Some say it gives stray current exactly what it needs to create a circuit, whereas others say the sharks/fish are better off without the probe because they (sharks) are not grounded themselves so they wont feel it. But it does get picked up by their AOL. Something to check, thats all. May actually nullify everything below.
IME sharks lay in front of pump outlets and powerheads because being that they have evolved with the ability to not have to swim in order to breathe much like "swimming sharks" or obligate ram ventilators that must stay in motion to pass water through their mouth and out there gills. The bamboos take advantage of the pumping water to help aerate there gills as they lay motionless. Its not a complete mechanism of breathing but it does aid.
Your second question:
I have noticed when i move larger sharks into smaller tanks for Quarantine. The erratic swimming pattern and Im guessing you may also see the shark roll over as he swims forward? I believe this to either be a DO problem, a PH problem, a lack of space OR the original reason they were being QTed and that is parasites (Keep reading...). When the large sharks were returned to there original dwelling, the behavior stopped.
You also mentioned flitting or flashing? This might indicate a gill fluke or nematode, a parasitic copepod, or basically just some type of villain. An external parasite may also indicate the rolling or abnormal swimming pattern. He may be trying to rid himself of something on his dorsal or pectoral side. If this is the case than i would dose him with Praziquantel immediately. It sounds like you have him in a reef? I believe in my experience that prazi is reef safe. I recently dosed it on my big shark breeding system, which has Macro algae tanks that contain soft corals and a plethora of Inverts Ive been collecting with no harm done, not even a closing of polyps on the softies. You may not want to take that risk, but if flukes are in your tank, and this has been going on for a while, than a tank bath may be best. Otherwise QT the shark and dose Prazi as directed for 3-5 days, then do a 100% WC and if he needs another treatment, do it for another 3-5 days. This has eradicated plenty of parasites in my experience and it usually shows instant relief. But during this treatment make sure to provide plenty of aeration if you do it in a QT. You must shut your skimmer down and remove carbon. Shutting the skimmer lowers your DO and the viscous Prazi lowers DO/ORP slightly as well, so adding airstones is a must, as well as surface agitation by aiming a Powerhead at the surface to create some turbulence for gas exchange.
In retrospect, its best to purchase yearlings, rather than hatchlings and eggs. This is due to the fact that soo many eggs end up not hatching, or they hatch and never take to food, which ends in a long term force-feeding that even still sometimes ends in death. The other reason not to purchase eggs is based on factual data. So many sharks make it through the hatching phase but are not suited for living. As is the case with human babies and all sorts of live-bearing and egglaying animals. Look at the mortality rate with egg laying fish! Some fish eggs only have a 10% success rate of making it through metamorphosis and into juvenile stages. It may be an abnormality internally thats only viewed through a necropsy, or just some genetic abnormality period. As you said, it seems like your bamboo shark is not seeing correctly, has this always been the case? or is it morre recent? Some flukes and parasites can also attack the eyes. Is there anything visible on the eyes? Are they cloudy?
Do you have a very rigid photoperiod? Too much actinic light? A majority of actinic lighting over your tank, can damage any animals eyes permanently, (in general lol)
Please explain a little bit more about your system including tank length and width and tankmates, etc, as well as parameters and your source for the eggs? Also, do you have a suitably sized QT that you could remove the sharks into for treatment if thats what you decide to do?
Thanks.
EDIT**: I answered a lot of my own questions, ie., photoperiod, actinics, etc,etc by deducing that you have chalices and acropora, which would indeed indicate a reef tank. In addition there is a very good shark forum out there on the vast Interweb. PM for the address. A lot of experienced shark/ray keepers and a lot of your questions may already be answered there.
Even though you are upgrading to a 240, this will not house the sharks for very long. The species you happen to have, grows to a very large average adult size. Give or take they become three feet long and have a very large body mass. Even at around 2 feet they weigh more than a tank full of large bony fish combined. Just something to ponder, how much longer you will be able to care for them and if you have the option to purchase a larger tank. Check out that other website Im referring you too for tank size recommendations.
Good Luck
Last edited:
G4546
New member
Hey, sorry for the delay... long holiday Treatment will be prep'd as you both suggest. Yes I do have a QT that would hold them for the duration of the treatment, question... If there is no need for the treatment and we go through with treating them, is there any negatives to that? Other than some stress? The seeing, it has always been the case I would say. I obtained both eggs from a wholesaler about 2 months between eachother. One hatched naturally and one was helped. Both waited between 6-8 days before eating, they are fed daily, small amounts. I do not notice anything on the eyes though, they are not cloudy or seem to have anything on them. Like a cats eye in the mid days sun though, that little slit My photo period I would assume could be considered rigid, 12 on 12 off 175MH. Now another question would be this, the aquarium that the eggs were placed into had been fallow for 7 to 8 weeks they were the only introduction. Is it possible for them to obtain parasites within the egg while developing? Interesting if so. The 240 is just a stepping stone, as a "large" tank was to you Grim and Alprazo before building one I also need to PM you further on something Grim, if ya don't mind. I do greatly appreciate your time, thank you.
-
G
Treatment will be prep'd as you both suggest. Yes I do have a QT that would hold them for the duration of the treatment, question... If there is no need for the treatment and we go through with treating them, is there any negatives to that? Other than some stress? The seeing, it has always been the case I would say. I obtained both eggs from a wholesaler about 2 months between eachother. One hatched naturally and one was helped. Both waited between 6-8 days before eating, they are fed daily, small amounts. I do not notice anything on the eyes though, they are not cloudy or seem to have anything on them. Like a cats eye in the mid days sun though, that little slit My photo period I would assume could be considered rigid, 12 on 12 off 175MH. Now another question would be this, the aquarium that the eggs were placed into had been fallow for 7 to 8 weeks they were the only introduction. Is it possible for them to obtain parasites within the egg while developing? Interesting if so. The 240 is just a stepping stone, as a "large" tank was to you Grim and Alprazo before building one I also need to PM you further on something Grim, if ya don't mind. I do greatly appreciate your time, thank you.-
G
Fallow works for obligate parasites like ich a velvet that have short life cycles. Monogenia, Cestodes, nematodes, Trematodes, and pods, though parasites can often live past the typical fallow period for ich. Look at the Cimex lectularius (bed bug). They feed solely on blood. We kept one alive in a jar at work for nearly a year without a meal.
I used to treat all of my new sharks with Dimilin to kill amphipods and Copepods. I can't find it anymore though.
As for Prazi, all meds pose a risk. I believe that it is a safer one.
I used to treat all of my new sharks with Dimilin to kill amphipods and Copepods. I can't find it anymore though.
As for Prazi, all meds pose a risk. I believe that it is a safer one.
SantaMonica
Well-known member
I need to spend much more time reading about fishes. A walking shark? The PNG guy looks amazing.
So I checked the sexes of my gray bamboo breeding group now that they've officially started to reach maturity. I was very surprised by what I discovered. The two biggest in the group are my males while the three smaller are my females. I thought the whole time that the females were the bigger ones because of their bigger average length! I am thought they'd be the ones growing faster and wider.
So now with that info on hand it looks like the ladies have some growing to do. But I've had them all now for 18-24 months and purchased them all at at least 12". So that would indicate they are all almost three years old which means they should be sexually mature going by age and size.
I'm stumped. The claspers aren't calcified and the females are def not big enough to carry eggs, I don't think. But I will keep the temp up and keep feeding them healthy and a varied supplemented diet. I bet by the end of the year now I'll have hatchlings. Some reading I did stated similar sized Chiloscylium arabicum eggs hatch in 70-80 days. Much less that C. punctatum at 120-180 days. I'm guessing the eggs must be much smaller as well.
We shall see.
So now with that info on hand it looks like the ladies have some growing to do. But I've had them all now for 18-24 months and purchased them all at at least 12". So that would indicate they are all almost three years old which means they should be sexually mature going by age and size.
I'm stumped. The claspers aren't calcified and the females are def not big enough to carry eggs, I don't think. But I will keep the temp up and keep feeding them healthy and a varied supplemented diet. I bet by the end of the year now I'll have hatchlings. Some reading I did stated similar sized Chiloscylium arabicum eggs hatch in 70-80 days. Much less that C. punctatum at 120-180 days. I'm guessing the eggs must be much smaller as well.
We shall see.
RayL
New member
I hope this is a good place to post this, my LFS has a Black Tip in a 1000G tank and the sharks fins are starting to curve as he is clearly cramped. I told them they need to relocate this shark and they said they dont know anyone that wants it. I thought i would ask you guys. The store is in toronto, so its probably a little far from most of you however they said their would be no charge for the shark as long as it was going to a good home. Do any of you want the shark or know someone that might, I hate seeing this shark suffer. They said they think it is a female.
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