Sonny's Rimless Shallow Reef.
- Thread starter JohnL
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roktsintst
New member
Sonny, I would love to see a picture of your tank w/ the new lights on it. I had the exact same setup asyou did before and im interested to know what hte difference is!!!
map95003
New member
Everything is going well.I have been very busy latly so that is why the thread has not been updated. Hopefully I will have some time tonight to answer the questions above that I have not gotten to.
I just replaced my bulbs and swapped out an ATI Aquablue Special for an ATI Blue+. I am liking this bluer combo and my corals "pop" even more now.
New lighting setup:
FRONT
ATI Blue+
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquable Special
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
Hey Sonny, that's the bulb combination I've been using on my tank (except I have 6 bulbs so 1 less blue+) for about 6 months now. I like the color, however I did notice my coral growth have slowed down a bit compared to when I was using 3xAquaBlue Specials & 3x Aqua blue+....however, I have more LPS than SPS so you may not see a decrease in growth since your tank is SPS dominated.
Update: I forgot, I recently swapped out a blue+ for a UVL super actinic, a little bluer when the first set of lights come on for the day.
Hey Sunny,
I am the guy who did the Rimless video a few weeks ago. VIDEO, THREAD
Anyways. I have a quick question. I have read this entire thread and I must say good job. This is an amazing thread.
I have been dosing tiny amounts of vodka for the past month a relatively new setup. All of the liverock was transferred from a previous setup so my cycle period was minimal. Did the typical start with 0.3ml for an approximate 72 gallons of water. I have taken this very slow and am now at 1.4ml after 5 weeks. I began adding MB7 About a week ago started with 6 drops a day, thinking I needed a high to medium nutrient dose. But after noticing bit of bacteria strands in the sump I am reducing that to 2 drops a day. I have <3 nitrate right now (dropping steadily) and according to the seachem test kit, undetectable phosphates. Overall the dosing is goign great all my sps have begin coloring up nicely and the water is crystal clear. The monti cap and a Tricolor Bali have faded heavily but I am beginning supplementing aminos and feeding more.
My main question is this. Do you think this is ok? I have a DSB in the sump and my sand bed is about 2 inches deep in the display, but its all Sugar sized. All the sand was new when i added it so it has not become a nutrient sink. Do you think I should keep this DSB because its soo new, and sugar sized so it doesnt really allow detritus to get lost in it.
I certainly cannot vaccuum the bed the sand is too small and will get siphoned.
By the way it's a 47 gallon tank and a 30 gallon sump. I have a Vertex IN-100 skimmer.
I am the guy who did the Rimless video a few weeks ago. VIDEO, THREAD
Anyways. I have a quick question. I have read this entire thread and I must say good job. This is an amazing thread.
I have been dosing tiny amounts of vodka for the past month a relatively new setup. All of the liverock was transferred from a previous setup so my cycle period was minimal. Did the typical start with 0.3ml for an approximate 72 gallons of water. I have taken this very slow and am now at 1.4ml after 5 weeks. I began adding MB7 About a week ago started with 6 drops a day, thinking I needed a high to medium nutrient dose. But after noticing bit of bacteria strands in the sump I am reducing that to 2 drops a day. I have <3 nitrate right now (dropping steadily) and according to the seachem test kit, undetectable phosphates. Overall the dosing is goign great all my sps have begin coloring up nicely and the water is crystal clear. The monti cap and a Tricolor Bali have faded heavily but I am beginning supplementing aminos and feeding more.
My main question is this. Do you think this is ok? I have a DSB in the sump and my sand bed is about 2 inches deep in the display, but its all Sugar sized. All the sand was new when i added it so it has not become a nutrient sink. Do you think I should keep this DSB because its soo new, and sugar sized so it doesnt really allow detritus to get lost in it.
I certainly cannot vaccuum the bed the sand is too small and will get siphoned.
By the way it's a 47 gallon tank and a 30 gallon sump. I have a Vertex IN-100 skimmer.
Last edited:
thejuggernaut
Member
Dont let the siphon flow wide open...put your finger over the end of the hose and control the flow. When the substrate starts to get to the top, plug the water off and let it settle out. You should be able to do some good siphoning the sand that way. Atleast in the main tank...don't disturb the levels in your DSB unless your going to pull it completely out (beauty of a remote DSB).
solareclisped
Member
Can we get a picture with the new light combo. I am going to have to replace my lights in about a month or so and I have the same light as you and would like to see how it looks. Thanks
sigs4me
New member
Well it took me 2 weeks but I've read through the whole thread! Sonny you are a stand up guy!! The way you answer everyones questions (sometimes over and over again) and your willingness to help is inspiring. Not to mention your extreme talent in this hobby and your beautiful tank. Based on everything I've read I'll be starting MB7 and vodka soon. Thanks for staying with this thread.
SunnyX
New member
Look for pictures real soon!
Look for pictures real soon!
My corals had slowed down in growth and lost some "pop" in color at the 9 month mark of the bulbs. After changing the bulbs out my growth and colors are back where they belong.
I kicked cyano in my main tank but I still have some in my frag tank. Slowly but surely I am winning the battle.
Will do!
SunnyX
New member
Great tank and video! :thumbsup:
Your dosing looks fine. Since your DSB is fairly new I would not worry about it causeing any issues. I would continue dosing as your are and keep an eye on nutrient levels as you do not want them getting too low.
Here are some good tips when dosing:
http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/2...7-and-vodka-dosing-instructions-and-tips.html
Special thanks to Bzar from RC for taking the time to compile the list from my thread........
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
+
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing - http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php
=========================
Probiotic Reef Keeping.
Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.
Rules
1) Need a good skimmer
2) Proper surface aggitation and flow
3) You must keep an eye on nutrients!!! Too low and things will go downhill fast!
4) This isnt a cure-all meathod. If you do not have the proper reef practices this wont make you a better reefer.
5) Take it slow. Nothing good in reefing ever happens fast.
Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Po4 change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofuel...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenance levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO
Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/20...eament-of.html )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less
Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes
)Other
1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and siphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3
-Sonny
SunnyX
New member
Look for pictures very soon.
I have heard about the bulb and will probably be ordering one soon to try out. Its worth a shot I guess, I have been happy with KZ's bulbs so far.
I appreciate the feedback and support. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with. :thumbsup:
Lyfey
Member
Sonny!! Your back!! Dont worry, I know how it is!!
Quick question, I am going to upgrade my lighting and I am down to a few different options. Right now I am running a standard 75g but I plan on upgrading to a 150 5' long tank sometime. Should I buy my new lighting to accomodate my current tank or should I buy a lighting system thats 5 foot long w/ extra bulbs to accomodate my new tank, but it will still work on my current tank and it just might look a little goofy.
ATI Powermodule 8x80w or 8x54w or 6 bulb for my 75?
" Sunpower 6x80w or 6x54w
Aquatinics Constellation
Tek Light elite (same bulb configs as the PM) this would be the cheapest option with a 6x54w light going for 402$
Or something else reccomended? I live in an apartment and quite frankly I dont know how to hang the light from the ceiling nor do I know if the ceiling studs are located for proper installation. Thats the only thing about the ATI's they dont have mounting brackets for the tank. I also want to acclimate my corals properly and by raising the fixture up and down to acclimate I know would be the best way, rather than messing with screen/eggcrate, timing arrangements, bulb configs ect. What do you think Sonny? Thanks a million!
-Chris
Dont worry, I know how it is!!Quick question, I am going to upgrade my lighting and I am down to a few different options. Right now I am running a standard 75g but I plan on upgrading to a 150 5' long tank sometime. Should I buy my new lighting to accomodate my current tank or should I buy a lighting system thats 5 foot long w/ extra bulbs to accomodate my new tank, but it will still work on my current tank and it just might look a little goofy.
ATI Powermodule 8x80w or 8x54w or 6 bulb for my 75?
" Sunpower 6x80w or 6x54w
Aquatinics Constellation
Tek Light elite (same bulb configs as the PM) this would be the cheapest option with a 6x54w light going for 402$
Or something else reccomended? I live in an apartment and quite frankly I dont know how to hang the light from the ceiling nor do I know if the ceiling studs are located for proper installation. Thats the only thing about the ATI's they dont have mounting brackets for the tank. I also want to acclimate my corals properly and by raising the fixture up and down to acclimate I know would be the best way, rather than messing with screen/eggcrate, timing arrangements, bulb configs ect. What do you think Sonny? Thanks a million!
-Chris
Lyfey
Member
Oh and btw, I recieved my MP40w ES Conversion box yesterday night!! Its pretty cool, I only have 1 MP40w ES now so I really dont know the differences yet. There where no manuals that came with it so I really dont know how to use it yet. I think I am one of the first people to get the ES, I ordered it monday afternoon and got it yesterday at around 7pm!!
mcliffy2
New member
Lyfey, I have a 12x54w over a 5'x3' and am happy I went with the 4' bulbs -- they are easier to find, cheaper to run, and I really don't need coverage at the edges (with a good aquascape, there is generally space between your walls and the rock structures where you'll need the light ).
).
Lyfey
Member
Good point Mcliffy, Ive noticed a trend of people, didnt know you had a 5' tank, that are sticking with the 4' fixtures. does your Sfiligoi have active cooling? How do you review your fixture? Did you go with it because its the only option for 12x bulbs besides retro and Gman matrix? So to go off topic.
Probably less algae on the glass walls too with a shorter fixture.
Probably less algae on the glass walls too with a shorter fixture.
SunnyX
New member
Lyfey, I have a 12x54w over a 5'x3' and am happy I went with the 4' bulbs -- they are easier to find, cheaper to run, and I really don't need coverage at the edges (with a good aquascape, there is generally space between your walls and the rock structures where you'll need the light
Oh wow, I didnt even notice that your fixture was only 4'! When I seen it in person your tank looked fully lit, so I would say that a 4' fixture on a 5' is perfect. Maybe I was just distracted by all the amazing corals.
I plan on using a 5' T5 fixture on my next 6' tank.
SunnyX
New member
Try this:
FRONT
Blue+
Fiji Purple
Blue+
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Blue+
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Blue+
Blue+
You could swap the extra Fiji Purple for one of the aquablues but it may look too pink. The list above would be a good starting point, but you may need to move a few bulbs around to accomadate your taste.
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