Stand Top Not Flat

[Phisher]

I can't seem to get the high/low spots out despite sanding and shims...they just seem to move around.

Was wondering if I could dam off the the edges around the top and use a product like http://robertsconsolidated.com/?q=node/838?

 

[username in use]

do you have pics of the stand? How far off are they and how exactly are you sanding the high spots to get rid of them? Try taking a straight edge long enough to span the the width of the stand, then cover it with some 80 grit and use that as your sanding block. Take a little at a time and keep checking, it should give you a pretty straight line.

 

[uncleof6]

First thing you gotta do with that straight edge, and whatever else it takes, is find out if the four corners of the stand are on the same plane. Sanding a nice flat twist into the top of the stand, won't help much.

Regards,

Jim

 

[Phisher]

Perhaps I am making a mountain from a molehill here. I have a piece of 3/4 pine on top the tank, I did have a low corner but I shimmed that corner. The gaps between the plywood and tank are very narrow, with the tank empty I can slide a piece of standard weight paper through them with some resistance. If I put weight in the tank they all but go away.

 

[uncleof6]

Perhaps I am making a mountain from a molehill here. I have a piece of 3/4 pine on top the tank, I did have a low corner but I shimmed that corner. The gaps between the plywood and tank are very narrow, with the tank empty I can slide a piece of standard weight paper through them with some resistance. If I put weight in the tank they all but go away.

Shimming the corner is not recommended. flatten the stand top rim. If the tank sits on the stand without the plywood top, then it is flat enough. With a low corner, the stand has a twist in it. Small irregularities under the rim of the tank, (cc width) are ok, as long as the corners are solid, and on the same plane.

Jim

 

[tkeracer619]

Shims are only used under the stand between it and the floor. Not between the stand and the top layer.

 

[Phisher]

So how would I go about "untwisting" it besides completely starting over?

Also why is it bad to shim the top if it makes a good, level flat plain for the tank to rest on? I did a search before posting this tread and saw 10+ threads telling people to "shim between the top and stand not top and tank."

 

[jmkarcz]

Try using a product like this... it has always worked for me.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200328793_200328793

 

[uncleof6]

So how would I go about "untwisting" it besides completely starting over?

Also why is it bad to shim the top if it makes a good, level flat plain for the tank to rest on? I did a search before posting this tread and saw 10+ threads telling people to "shim between the top and stand not top and tank."

People do this, because it is easier than doing it the right way. Getting the top frame flat and on the same plane is a lot of work. The reason why jointers are used for this level of cabinet making. And it is cabinet making skill level, and tool set to build these things right the first time.

Untwisting the stand is a matter of getting all four corners on the same plane, and then leveling the stand from underneath.:beer:

Jim

 

[iamwrasseman]

1/2" foam will remove any imperfections and its a great thing to have anyway

 

[uncleof6]

1/2" foam will remove any imperfections and its a great thing to have anyway

You don't put foam under a rimmed tank for one. And the foam is to eliminate point stress on a flush bottom glass (rimless) tank and often on acrylic tanks as well. Foam is not used and does not cure problems with an out of wack stand

Jim

 

[iamwrasseman]

oh yes it does my friend ,sorry to disagree with you but foam will never hurt a thing .rimless or rimmed no problems and if the tank stand is indeed out of wack it will give where needed and support the whole tank weight . we have professionly built hundreds and i know what works . i do not have any customers with broken tanks ~NONE.

 

[uncleof6]

oh yes it does my friend ,sorry to disagree with you but foam will never hurt a thing .rimless or rimmed no problems and if the tank stand is indeed out of wack it will give where needed and support the whole tank weight . we have professionly built hundreds and i know what works . i do not have any customers with broken tanks ~NONE.

And I know what does not.

Happy reefing.

 

[iamwrasseman]

and also to you but i must ask how do you know what doesnt ? by breaking a few ?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Wrasseman, I see you are in Syracuse - I'm assuming, Syracuse NY?

I'm in Syracuse too, and after asking around the local clubs and shops over the years, I've never gotten much of a response regarding tank builders in this area - No one seemed to realize there was one so close. Do you have references locally? Or a website or anything?

 

[hebygb]

OP... you need to fix that stand and make it level. Jim is spot on on his advice on this. Fix it by breaking it down and rebuilding. The self leveling pour on the top would be the last resort. Assuming this is for your 75 build, that is a lot of water on a floor. Don't risk it.

Best way to build a stand is to start with a perfectly level surface to build it on and really square cuts.

 

[cannarella]

There doesn't seem to be an easy answer for you here. I like the idea of rebuilding. If that is a worst case and completely out of the question you "could" use a leveling product like that. I would chose and epoxy based product that is tough as nails. Pics would be nice to see to maybe offer additional options.

 

[iamwrasseman]

Your post has been removed. We don't allow commercial advertising sorry.~dc

 

[Phisher]

OP... you need to fix that stand and make it level. Jim is spot on on his advice on this. Fix it by breaking it down and rebuilding. The self leveling pour on the top would be the last resort. Assuming this is for your 75 build, that is a lot of water on a floor. Don't risk it.

Best way to build a stand is to start with a perfectly level surface to build it on and really square cuts.

This build will forever be known as "Water World" because everything has cost 2x as much as I planned, taken 3x as long, or been a disaster.

I am scrapping the stand, hopefully I can remove the oak plywood without destroying it and reuse it. I am starting over with 1x4 and 1x6 premium select pine for the framework, this stuff is straight as an arrow--->.

Next I am sure my untempered tank will bust into a million pieces as soon as I touch it with the hole saw to drill the drains...

 

[hebygb]

This hobby is not about fast and cheap. There should be a 12-step program dedicated to it. That said... good luck on the rebuild. Ask anyone here that their second build goes much better, you get to use your second build as part of the first. Measure twice, cut once.