Starting a 240 Gal Cube Tank

[chetm2]

Scottkelly911 - thanks! I actually had a non reefer say it's not really a cube, kinda hard to explain that it still qualifies

 

[cerreta]

I actually had a non reefer say it's not really a cube, kinda hard to explain that it still qualifies

That's funny. I guess technically the height does not equal the other two sides, therefore it is not a true cube. However, it seems a moot point :rolleye1:, since the concept of a cube describes the type of reef you possess in simple terms.

Does this bone head :bum: go around calling an ice cube an ice rectangle, since most ice cubes are really not cuboidal anyways? Just a thought. :lol:

 

[sidewinder770]

So....all leaks fixed, water tested and ready to go? When you gonna fill this sucker up? I'm ready to see some water in it . So what's the lighting plan?

 

[chetm2]

I started re-doing all of the threaded plumbing last night and have 4 more pipes to do then water test again and I will let that run a few days to get help cure the reef ceramics a litte more. I plan on using 4 - 250 DE Phoenix 14K's (like you ) in the PFO mini pendants. In the future I might throw some T5's in but after seeing yours and other tanks with the Phoenix bulbs I don't see the need for the T5's right now. I'm still waiting for my electrical to we wired and also I need to wire my ro line.

 

[chetm2]

Well no more leaks! The one area I will have to be careful with is the OM 4 way that is mounted thru the overflow opening. Whenever I moved or bumped it I would get a small leak from the bulkhead. I realized it was breaking the gasket's seal just enough to leak. That pipe thread compound is great and I only wished I knew it about it from the start. My overflow doesn't seem to be able to keep up with my return pump (dart) I currently have it throttled back so much that there is very little flow thru the wavyseas. I drilled out the air hole to about .25" and I think I will just glue in a valve and see how that works. I also think my standpipe may be to high. I will post some pictures and hopefully somebody can help me out on this one. I'm waiting for my neighbor (sheetrock guy) to route out an opening in my sheetrock so I can run the electrical and RO/DI line to the tank. I always laughed at these guys that took 6 months before they had saltwater in their tanks....I'm slowly heading that way

 

[cerreta]

Chet, I had very good luck with the AGA modified Durso standpipe. It feature a large 1/4" hole drilled into the middle region of the Tee.

Another tip, is to not drill the siphon hole in the top of the cap. Instead, drill it into the side of the cap. Be sure to penetrate the cap and the inner pvc pipe. Then glue the inner pvc pipe to the Tee and use no glue on the cap. Now, you can turn the cap to expose more or less of the hole opening to fine tune your siphon.

Here are a couple pictures:

The AGA modified Durso standpipe with 1/4" hole in the Tee.

Small siphon hole drilled into side of cap. You can turn the cap to make the hole aperature smaller or larger as needed.
http://members.cox.net/cerretasaquahut2/TankDrillingPlumbing 053.jpg

PVC grid to prevent fish from getting sucked into drain.
http://members.cox.net/cerretasaquahut2/TankDrillingPlumbing 066.jpg

Glad the pipe thread has worked for you. See if this Durso mod does the trick.

 

[cerreta]

Small siphon hole drilled into side of cap. You can turn the cap to make the hole aperature smaller or larger as needed.

PVC grid to prevent fish from getting sucked into drain.

 

[cerreta]

crap, just click the links to see the other two pics.

 

[chetm2]

Thanks for the info, I wonder if my 1 - 2" drain isn't enough for the dart? I figured I would have to throttle it back a little but I would say it is only at 25%. Another thing I noticed is the last baffle in my sump is the same height as the teeth on top of the refugium and skimmer sections. To enter into the return area the water level has to be over the teeth. I will take a picture and see what you guys think.

 

[cerreta]

Chet, your sump sounds like it was built very nicely. I like the idea of teeth in the fuge baffles. This permits slow water flow to enter the fuge at a lower level.

The turbid, fast paced water will rise above the teeth (I'm guessing your fuge is in the center) fly across the fuge and go into the return chamber without disturbing the lower more gentle areas of your fuge. Well, designed.

I run my baffles all at the same height and position a float valve in the return chamber for FW top-off. If you do the same, then you will virtually have no bubbles returned to the tank.

If you look in my gallery, you will find a schematic and description of the Sump-a-Fuge.

 

[sidewinder770]

A 2" durso should be big enough for the dart. Are your overflow teeth allowing enough water into the overflow itself? If so it sounds like you may have the durso a little too high. Just like you I certainly didn't think it would take 6 months + to get this thing finished but here I am 1 year plus and still not done . At least I'm not alone! It amazes me how some people can get everything done over a weekend!!!

 

[chetm2]

Ok here are some pictures of the overflow and top of the durso as well as some of the sump and a picture of the top of the tank with all the crazy flow

 

[chetm2]

A couple more pictures of the return section of the sump

 

[sonofgaladriel]

Looks Great! Those WavySea's look nice. How do you like them? Did you consider that the clear tubing that feeds them will eventually be filled with, especially directly under the lights like it is. Can you get black flexible tubing in your area?
FYI, I'll be breaking down my 240 cube within the next few months. I'll be replacing it with a 96"x48"x30" . I've come to miss the long swimming room for my tangs and larger angels, but I can't give up the 48" depth either, so the 600 is the best of both worlds, but I'll be leaving the 'semi cube' club

 

[chetm2]

sonofgaladriel - Thanks, I will miss your pictures and info on your tank. Somebody will be getting a killer tank setup But I'm looking forward to your new adventure. I couldn't find any black flex tubing that was the right size. I might paint the tubing or cover it with some of those wraps they sell.

 

[alien9168]

Wow chet! that looks really great man!

 

[chetm2]

Well my RO/DI is hooked up outside in the garage, and the RO line ran thru lots of walls into the small closet behind the tank. I'm using one of the 50 gallon coke syrup containers to store clean water in. I hooked up a float valve inside it. I will be installing the Tunze Osmolater inside the syrup container and run the line thru the wall into the sump to keep the water level set. I also had my electrical hooked up, i ended up having 2 dedicated 20 AMP circuits installed. I just need to have the drywall patched up and I can start mixing up saltwater. I did forget about how I'm going to hook up the chiller to my tank. I have a gen-x 30 pump and I just need to figure out what water to feed the chiller with and where to have it enter back in. The sump seems to be the best place but I'm not sure where to have the in/out. Any suggestions? Here are some pictures of the mess.

 

[chetm2]

Here is the Air Water Ice Typhoon III

And Bob The Electrician hard at work in 105+ degree weather.

 

[Fliger]

I really do need to get over there. I stopped by your shop the other day but you were off, LMK your next day off and maybe I could swing by, you can't be that far.

105 in the garage? What was it 5:30 am? ;-)

 

[XsploveReefin]

Thats a Awesome setup it gives me ideas on my new 240 gallon tank that i will be getting this week.