Steel Tank-Stand Builders?

tbone, I don't have any close up of the tank, but here are a few:

Reef Ceramic back with starboard bottom
9086Reef_Ceramics_side.JPG


Euro bracing with SeaSwirls
9086close_plumbing.JPG


And of the overflow (yes, that is why I had the stand notched in the middle)
9086Left_bottom.JPG


I am real happy with the tank, and with the way the stand came out.
 
Ken,

Thanks for the pics. The Lee Mar tank is WAY nicer than the AGA. I like the fact that your tank doesn't have the black, plastic trim like the AGA. It also has the center overflow that I'm looking for. The AGA comes with the dual Megaflows.

I definitely need to give them a call. From your knowledge, do they make a 180g RR as a stock item? I'm trying to stay away from custom tanks, as they are running in the $2000 range.
 
Ken,

Thanks for the pics. The Lee Mar tank is WAY nicer than the AGA. I like the fact that your tank doesn't have the black, plastic trim like the AGA. It also has the center overflow that I'm looking for. The AGA comes with the dual Megaflows.

I definitely need to give them a call. From your knowledge, do they make a 180g RR as a stock item? I'm trying to stay away from custom tanks, as they are running in the $2000 range.
 
Plywood Base?

Plywood Base?

OK guys, another question:

If I purchase an AGA 180g RR tank (has plastic trim), do I need to place a sheet of plywood between the steel stand and tank? If so, how thick should the plywood be?

I've learned that placing the pink Home Depot foam is not necessary, and not recommended on tanks with trim...just not sure about the plywood.

Thanks
 
Update

Update

OK guys, I've contacted several local metal fabricators, and all quotes are coming in at least twice as much as you guys have paid. They're coming in between $1600-$2000 (stand & powdercoat)

I did "overbuild" the stand, but I'm not so sure that it would more than double what you guys are paying. Please take a look at my specs and see if I'm paying what I should.

I took rwrussom's design he shared with me on the 1st page of this thread, and beefed it up:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=9661557#post9661557

The quotes I submitted were for 3/16" x 2" x 2". I also added 6 additional support beams:

1 vertical beam on each end of the stand
2 additional vertical beams on the bank of the stand
2 additional horizontal beams on the top of the stand

Do you think this stand is worth $1600? If I decide to add levelling feet (8 in total), it will add another $600 for parts and labor.
 
Thicker metal does cost more money, take longer to weld correctly and I think you'll find the price noticably less if you go with thiner metal. I went with 1.5" square but only 1/8" thick and mine is holding up just fine- I'd still beef up the front beam for the 4' span but not the rest. You may want to see how much they are charging you for the powdercoating as you can probably get a better deal if you call around to different powdercoting shops and deliver it yourself- the fabrication companies are probably marking up the powdercoating and passing that to you.

Personally- if you're paying over 1k I think you're getting ripped ( realistically it shouldn't cost more than 800-900 total)but that's just me. :)
 
You are easily doubling the material costs with the up sizing and extra wall thickness. You need to consider moving it in place also. I started out with a few more horz and 1/4" wall and was looking at almost 700#. No real reason to go more than you need. Also if the floor is close to level and the stand bottom is flat you should be fine without leveling feet, just shim as neccessary. The leveling feet also defeat alot of the extra strength you added. They will be the structurally week point.
Powder coating should not run much more than $100.00
 
Re: Update

Re: Update

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9699560#post9699560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28

The quotes I submitted were for 3/16" x 2" x 2". I also added 6 additional support beams:

1 vertical beam on each end of the stand
2 additional vertical beams on the bank of the stand
2 additional horizontal beams on the top of the stand
OK, were not building offroad race cars here! IMO you have it way over built. Even with mine, I could have omitted one set of uprights. You won't believe how strong a steal stand is. It's no comparison to a wood stand so don't try to build it like one. I would drop any/all corner braces, if its welded correctly you are only adding weight, material, and labor, which all equal $$$.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9700541#post9700541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mflamb
I used almost 240 feet of steel in mine, so the steel cost and the powdercoating cost was more.
wow for my 560/g i used only 160'.
 
NICE stands guys!

I just picked up a 4'x4'x20" tank w/ a powder coated stand. Stand measures 4'x4'x36". A BIG problem. I can't get this beast of a stand into ANY house easily. What I want to do is some how find an idea of what I should do?

Should I cut it in 1/2 (top and a bottom piece)and have a welder weld an "insert" in to the tubing so when I place the two pieces back together the "inserts" will slide inside the tubing on the other cut piece thus keeping the pieces perfectly straight together and the weight will be straight down on it's self?? What other options would be good for me? Any help from you steal welders would be great

here are the pics of it

DSCN2044.jpg


DSCN2045.jpg


I thought I'd put this question here since there seems to be such a gathering of some good welding/steel guys. Sorry for hijacking I can start a new thread if needed

thanks
Lunchbucket
 
Re: Re: Update

Re: Re: Update

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9702068#post9702068 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
OK, were not building offroad race cars here! IMO you have it way over built. Even with mine, I could have omitted one set of uprights. You won't believe how strong a steal stand is. It's no comparison to a wood stand so don't try to build it like one. I would drop any/all corner braces, if its welded correctly you are only adding weight, material, and labor, which all equal $$$.

:D :D I just don't want my tank on the floor! LOL. OK, OK, I'll price out a 1/8" x 1.5" x 1.5" which is not overbuilt!
 
cut it in half and have a welder come out and tig weld it back together... yes slid in insert inside then tig it it will be fine....
 
tbone, I bet you would total a car if you hit any of the stand pictured in this thread!



Lunch, is there a way you could cut the bottom rails off and walk it thru a door? If so, you could make a separate bottom that the rest of the stand would sit in after it's moved in.

Does that make any sense?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9704868#post9704868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
tbone, I bet you would total a car if you hit any of the stand pictured in this thread!

LOL :lol: So I've come to realize that labor here in Northern Cal. is a lot more expensive. Even if I price out a stand at 1/8x1.5x1.5 without the angle braces, the prices goes down only about $100. The labor is what's expensive up here! Wish I lived in SCAL or out of state right now!

Seems like if I'm set on a steel stand, I'll be paying about $1200-1300 before coating. I'm also leaning towards the Linex/Rhino coating now...worried about the powdercoat peeling off in the future.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9708733#post9708733 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
I'm also leaning towards the Linex/Rhino coating now...worried about the powdercoat peeling off in the future.
That's why I did it. I just know that sooner or later I would chip the powder coating and start a rust propagation farm!

Just a suggestion, check with local schools/collage/HVAC school and see if they have a welding course. If so, maybe you can find a student that would like a paying project :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9708833#post9708833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
That's why I did it. I just know that sooner or later I would chip the powder coating and start a rust propagation farm!

Just a suggestion, check with local schools/collage/HVAC school and see if they have a welding course. If so, maybe you can find a student that would like a paying project :)

Great idea! Will look into that. On a sidenote, I'm not quite sold yet on either an AGA or Perfecto tank. I haven't heard many bad stories on the LeeMAR, so I gave em a call this morning. They referred me to Vivid Aquarium. Have you heard of that store? I'm in contact with Sean right now to price out a 180g with starphire front, black sides and back, Eurobraced. I'd have to drive down and pick it up though...my wife is the one who offered that idea!:rollface:
 
Yes, I have heard of Vivid Aquarium. They have donated to our Club Raffle in the past :thumbsup:

Good luck on finding a welder. You might try an old muffler shop, some of those guys are good welders too!.
I know mine took a full weekend to cut and weld, it's just a long process to keep things straight.
 
If you must cut and re-weld the stand, I recommend making it
less than 35" tall so that it will fit through a standard-width door.

If you want a taller stand (as I did), the best solution is to make
the stand 34-inches tall, but then weld 1/2-inch plates to the
bottom of each leg. These plates are then drilled and tapped for
1-inch stainless steel bolts. Remove the bolts to get the stand
through doors, then screw them when you set up the tank. The
bolts are intended as leveling devices, but it's also a nice trick to
get a tall stand through a door. To protect my concrete slab by
spreading the point-pressure of each a bolt, I placed 1/4-inch
steel plate 6"x6" squares on the floor under each bolt.

My stand was designed by a mech-eng friend, who came up with
this clever bolt solution. He assured me that the threads on the
bolt are plenty stong for my 250 gallon tank.

62919stand_big_bolt.jpg
 
Here's mine.. made from 2" steel from a local named Abe. Seeing all the prices you guys paid, I must of got a steel. No powder coat, just thick black paint. Be careful if you have tile floor as it may create that pressure point. For mine, I added a rubber mat also in case i had spills or leaks which I can just wipe away.

OH.. I also had the issue of the stand not fitting through any door or window since its 72" x 40" wide. I had to tear down a wall and have it reconstructed. Behind the tank in the pic was my previous in wall so I just tore the entire wall down.

86rz8.jpg
 
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