Steel Tank-Stand Builders?

[gws294]

tbone...
a ways back you mentioned that they were going to charge you $600 for 8 levelers... check out this web site (that's wayyyyyy too much)

http://www.levelingmounts.com/

I purchased 10 levelers after talking with one of their engineers for $19.50 a piece. I used 1/8" thick steel in my stand, drilled and tapped the holes in the bottom (3/8") of the stand and inserted the levelers. They are supported on lock nuts. The bottom of the levelers are about 2" in diameter.

Good luck....

Geoff

 

[Treg]

Re: Update

Re: Update

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9699560#post9699560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
OK guys, I've contacted several local metal fabricators, and all quotes are coming in at least twice as much as you guys have paid. They're coming in between $1600-$2000 (stand & powdercoat)

Do you think this stand is worth $1600? If I decide to add levelling feet (8 in total), it will add another $600 for parts and labor.

Thats just a crazy price if you ask me and Not worth even close to it.

I built mine for around $350, that is counting a new Dewalt Chop Saw for $200 and paint!
So $150ish for materials... I had maybe 8-10 hours in actual cut and welding.
Maybe another 8 in sanding and paint.

You could buy your own welder and still come out $1000 ahead.


Just an idea, Might be worth running an add in a local paper and find a welding guy to take on a side job for cash. A lot of people weld other than fab shops.

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9704853#post9704853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by servicky
cut it in half and have a welder come out and tig weld it back together... yes slid in insert inside then tig it it will be fine....

I figured that would work but what the heck do I know?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9704868#post9704868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
Lunch, is there a way you could cut the bottom rails off and walk it thru a door? If so, you could make a separate bottom that the rest of the stand would sit in after it's moved in.

Does that make any sense?

It does but the bottom piece is only like 1" tall. See the pic? I don't think it would fit through a door since it is about 36" tall. Need to cut off quite a bit to get it in.

Ok so how do I keep the moisture out of the inside of the stand causing rust from the inside out? My stand does not have plates over the ends of the tubes so would moisure get in there and mess it up from the inside out? Also if i cut it and did slid in inserts and TIG weld it how do I keep the moisture of of there?

Ok what is TIG welding?

thanks
Lunchbucket

 

[Konadog]

Lunch,by cutting the bottom off it would open up the stand, you should be able to walk the stand in by putting a set of legs in first, slipping them around the door jam. It looks like you would only have to do two sides for it to work. Think how you move a mattress into a a room if you have to turn down a hallway.

 

[tbone28]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9673468#post9673468 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
Nice stands, here's mine:

I didn't want powder coating, I'll chip it in no time and it will rust. I had mine sprayed with Linex truck bed liner.

It deadens the sound that can resonate thru a steel stand also.

Kona,

What made you go with Line-X over Rhino? I think I'm going with the bedliner route now.

 

[Konadog]

I knew someone at a Line-x shop, did it at cost for me

For this application, I think Rhino would work just fine too.

 

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9713313#post9713313 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
Lunch,by cutting the bottom off it would open up the stand, you should be able to walk the stand in by putting a set of legs in first, slipping them around the door jam. It looks like you would only have to do two sides for it to work. Think how you move a mattress into a a room if you have to turn down a hallway.

We will be buying a house that is older 30's-50's since that it our price range and the basement steps to my parents house built in the same time isn't 36" wide. I still dont' know if it would fit down some hallways. But I have thought about shifting it around door ways like you said. I'm thinking might just be easier to cut in 1/2 and put together. If it was a tight corner at the end of a hall you would never make it around into a doorway.

Lunchbucket

 

[tbone28]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9712493#post9712493 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
Here's mine.. made from 2" steel from a local named Abe. Seeing all the prices you guys paid, I must of got a steel. No powder coat, just thick black paint. Be careful if you have tile floor as it may create that pressure point. For mine, I added a rubber mat also in case i had spills or leaks which I can just wipe away.

OH.. I also had the issue of the stand not fitting through any door or window since its 72" x 40" wide. I had to tear down a wall and have it reconstructed. Behind the tank in the pic was my previous in wall so I just tore the entire wall down.

Nice stand. AFter seeing your stand, I know my initial design is WAY WAY WAY overbuilt!

What kind of paint did you use? Rustoleum? Did you prime first?
Any potential for the paint to flake off?

 

[tbone28]

[

[/B]

OK, latest update...I'm finally under $1000!

William's Welding & Fabrication - $750 for the design you see in rwrussom's design, but with extra support:

2 additional vertical braces in the back
1 additional vertical brace in each side
2 additional horizontal braces on the top
1/8" x 2" x 2" vertical and horizontal supports
1/8" x 1.5" x 1.5" for all angled supports

$750 for the stand only. I'm going to either Line-X the stand ($135) or Rustoleum it myself.

Sounds like a good deal? (relative to the other quotes I've been getting)

It will cost $650 if I take out the angled supports.

There's also that guy I found off Craigslist who will do the stand in 3/16 x 2 x 2 with powdercoat for $600. He told me he's been fabricating for 25 years, and opened up his own shop a year ago. I drove by the address, and it looks like he's working out of his home. Can I trust him?

Which should I go for? Or should I continue my quest for a more reasonable price?

 

[rwrussom]

From what I paid, you are in the range now. All the additional bracing is a waste to me. Maybe if you had to, add one to the back. The angle braces can also be angle iron. Its cheaper and easier to weld on those inside corners. It may help the price.

Great price on the craigslist guy (if you get plumb, level, and in a timely manner)

 

[Konadog]

Working out of his home should not be a problem as long as its straight and level. He sounds like a retired welder or one that is doing side work.

I agree about the additional bracing, it's a waste of $$

 

[gws294]

tbone,
also just a thought... if you still really want the bracing, it would do the same thing if both braces were on the top. Not one on the bottom, and one on the top. It would open up the ends to be able to insert a sump or what ever....

FWIW
Good luck,
GEoff

 

[tbone28]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9739327#post9739327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gws294
tbone,
also just a thought... if you still really want the bracing, it would do the same thing if both braces were on the top. Not one on the bottom, and one on the top. It would open up the ends to be able to insert a sump or what ever....

FWIW
Good luck,
GEoff

Can you explain that differently. I'm having issues visualizing that...it's still early for me

Yes, guys, it's overbuilt!! But I also need to make sure my wife is comfortable. I'm slowly chipping away at her "worry-nerve". I'm hoping to be able to remove some of the extra support!

 

[gws294]

Sorry for the poor description...
If you have a brace (45 degree angle) at the top and the bottom of the side panels(LIKE YOR ILLUSTRATION), it limits the size of the opening.....
If both braces are located on the top, then you have more room at the bottom of the side panel to insert a sump or what ever...

In other words... think about putting a large box through the end panel.... see which design would allow for more room.

Clear as mud...

Geoff

 

[tbone28]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9739665#post9739665 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gws294
Sorry for the poor description...
If you have a brace (45 degree angle) at the top and the bottom of the side panels(LIKE YOR ILLUSTRATION), it limits the size of the opening.....
If both braces are located on the top, then you have more room at the bottom of the side panel to insert a sump or what ever...

In other words... think about putting a large box through the end panel.... see which design would allow for more room.

Clear as mud...

Geoff

haha...got it now! Coffee's flowing through the bloodstream. Thanks for your idea...it makes great sense. However, my tank will be sandwiched on the sides by pantries...no access...which is why I'm making that huge front-side opening for my sump (48").

 

[rlxwcapt]

over kill - over kill- over kill. Go look at the wood stands that AGA makes. don't build it like a tank. It is only 180 gallons. disperse the weight over 12 square feet. after rock and water you will be about 200 lbs per square feet. that is less then me standing. no different then a water bed. look at the frames that they sit on. Save your money and put it in to fish or corals.

 

[tbone28]

That's a very good point, and a good perspective. I'll end up toning it down a bit, but will leave just a little bit of "overkill" so my wife doesn't lie awake all night worrying

 

[Konadog]

Tell your wife to look at a water bed frame/pedestal. Partical board square with a few X's in the middle to hold up the entire bed!!

 

[tbone28]

Ok, so now that I've found a fabricator, I can focus on details.

My tank's going to be an AGA 180g with CORNER overflows (not the Megaflows).

My tentative stand dimensions:

73" x 25" x 32" using 1/8" x 2" x 2"

External Tank Dimensions:

72.5" x 24.5" x 25.625"

Will I have enough room in the corner of the stand for my overflow and return bulkheads?

Does anyone know the offset of the pre-drilled holes?

Will I need to notch out the rear corners (e.g. Konadog's stand)? If i notch out the corners, will that be enough support for the tank?

 

[Konadog]

tbone28, I would call the manufacturer about where the holes are. This is one thing you don't want to make a mistake on. My hole was 1/4 away from the brace, but with a bulkhead fitting, it was over by 1/2 an inch. The cutout is larger than needed, but I just made sure I cleared the entire overflow box.