Stolireef Rising from the Ashes...Again

[Stolireef]

Shiny new toys

Shiny new toys

:dance::dance::dance::dance:Look what the elves at Marine Depot and Premium Aquatics just dropped off at my house. Still waiting on the bulkheads but I can start planning now.
Trigger Crystal Elite 30" Sump
MP40 Quite Drive
Eshopps 10 Gallon ATO Reservoir (love the float valve).

 

[AZBigJohn]

Gotta love new toys!!!

 

[Stolireef]

Aquascape Comments

Aquascape Comments

OK. Let me have it.

Here's what I'm considering for my aquascape. As you can see from the top down shot, I'm trying to create a somewhat quieter cove (almost lagoon like) in the middle with very high flow areas everywhere else. Left plenty of room in the back of the tank for the Tunze's. All comments welcome.

Since this scape is not super stable, I'm going to drill for acrylic rods. Going to try to avoid epoxy since I'd like to be able to move rock around when necessary.

Also, how the heck do you ...
Remember where everything goes when you move it to the tank?

 

[Vanpire]

the cove looks cool but:

1. How high is your tank. it looks pretty low.
2. When your corals grow in, you won't be able to tell it is a cove anymore.

 

[Stolireef]

Van:

The tank is 20" high. I'm really hoping for a bit of a stag forest at least in a few parts so I don't mind that the height is not there. I've got plenty of extra rock if I want to build it up in a few places. As far as the cove is concerned, if my biggest problem is that my SPS are growing so fast that they hide it, life will be good. Just thing of the fragging possibilities.

 

[Stolireef]

BTW, at its highest point, it's 15". I may add another piece at the right end to bring it up to about 10".

 

[TangingOut]

Are you hooking your RODI straight to the reservoir?

 

[Stolireef]

That was the plan.

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[Stolireef]

Lol. What is wrong with the plan


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[TangingOut]

You'll be dealing with tds creep like in your previous setup.

 

[Stolireef]

So, basically, I have to put a diverter in on a solenoid valve that will run the output to a drain for the first few minutes before it starts refilling the ATO reservoir. Hmmmm. Just another toy to figure out.

 

[Stolireef]

So, thanks to Van's comments about TDS creep, my plans to use the Tunze Osmolator are now off. Instead, I'm going to go with Neptunes Fluid Management modules. Here's the new plan. Attach three Neptune Normal Off solenoid valves to split output lines from the RODI unit. Attach four Neptune water level sensors. 2 will go to the reservoir (high/low), one will go to the sump (high) and one will go to the saltwater mixing station (high).

Progamming Apex (this is where I'll probably need some help from you Apex geeks).
When ATO reservoir reads low, set first solenoid valve on RO/DI output to open and drain into slop sink for five minutes. Turn off first solenoid and open second solenoid valve to fill ATO reservoir until high sensor reads full then turn off second solenoid valve.
For mixing station, set up program that basically does the same thing but manually turning on the process.

Now, tell me where I've gone wrong (note all solenoids will be backed up by mechanical float valves.).

And don't forget. This whole mess is Van's fault.

 

[Stolireef]

Jeez, now that I think about it, this won't work unless I can attach a low level sensor to the sump to let the Apex know when to turn on the ATO. I'm getting a headache.

 

[TangingOut]

So, thanks to Van's comments about TDS creep, my plans to use the Tunze Osmolator are now off. Instead, I'm going to go with Neptunes Fluid Management modules. Here's the new plan. Attach three Neptune Normal Off solenoid valves to split output lines from the RODI unit. Attach four Neptune water level sensors. 2 will go to the reservoir (high/low), one will go to the sump (high) and one will go to the saltwater mixing station (high).

Progamming Apex (this is where I'll probably need some help from you Apex geeks).
When ATO reservoir reads low, set first solenoid valve on RO/DI output to open and drain into slop sink for five minutes. Turn off first solenoid and open second solenoid valve to fill ATO reservoir until high sensor reads full then turn off second solenoid valve.
For mixing station, set up program that basically does the same thing but manually turning on the process.

Now, tell me where I've gone wrong (note all solenoids will be backed up by mechanical float valves.).

And don't forget. This whole mess is Van's fault.

This looks like a pretty sound plan, but a couple things to note. I only turn on my RODI on when I need to make a minimum of 20 gallons. Something about frequent short cycles killing your membrane and DI resin. Also I don't see why you wouldn't be able to still use your osmolator. You also have the option of going the apex ato route with a float valve.

I've only been in the hobby a few years, but have been basically planning my ideal setup the whole time, since my system was bought as a running tank and I quickly realize how much I wanted things done differently. I'm on the other side of the 101 off cactus, about a few miles away. I can stop by if you ever need any help or just to brainstorm.

 

[Vanpire]

Jeez, now that I think about it, this won't work unless I can attach a low level sensor to the sump to let the Apex know when to turn on the ATO. I'm getting a headache.

Break-out box with various level sensors. I have one unopened APEX break-out box. I can sell your the the price I paid. I bought two by accident.

Van.

 

[Vanpire]

BTW, I think it was Francis that brought up the TDS and not me.

 

[Stolireef]

Van: It's still your fault. Going forward, anything that goes wrong in my tank will be your fault. I certainly couldn't possibly be my fault.

 

[Stolireef]

Just found out that the FMM is only on pre-order. Looks like I'll be sticking with the osmolator for a little whiel.

 

[evolved]

So, basically, I have to put a diverter in on a solenoid valve that will run the output to a drain for the first few minutes before it starts refilling the ATO reservoir. Hmmmm. Just another toy to figure out.

You can do it that way with one of these:
http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-OFF/FLOAT-SWITCH-CONTROL-RESERVOIR-FILL-SYSTEMS

I have a 50g storage tank that I use one of them on, and then I use a pump from the storage tank to fill ATO's or a separate container for water changes.

If you stick with long "run" times with your RODI system (rather than lots of short cycles), the TDS creep issue is not so important. With long cycles, the worst thing you'll do is shorten your DI life since it will have to "eat" the TDS creep on startup.

 

[Stolireef]

Hunter:

Unfortunately, I don't have a place to keep a larger container. I don't mind setting up the diversion system especially if I can control it with my apex.