Switching from 10k to 14k

[Justin/TiV]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7732555#post7732555 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zoom


I still said we need a good all around SE bulb and we don't have it yet I hope when the Iwasaki come out with the new 15K 250W bulb that may be the bulb we all been waiting for..

any idea when this is coming out...I've been waiting for this bulb to be the one we are all lookin for as well.....

 

[RichConley]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7722258#post7722258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Horace
You just dont know how yellow it really is . After adding more blue you will be amazed how much better everything looks

I disagree. The XM10K has very little yellow light in it. If your tank water isnt clear, it'll pick up all of it though. Running carbon or ozone makes these bulbs MUCH bluer looking.

That being said, generally 10K bulbs have a 420nm spike, whereas 14ks and 15Ks tend to have their spike at 450nm.

IE you get more violet from 10K, and more blue from a 14K. I think the biggest example of this is the "Raspberry millepora" I got a frag from a kid who runs 14Ks (phoenix). Looked very drab in his tank. I basically got a 4" colony for $25. All of his other corals looked great. As soon as I got it under my lights (10Ks) the red and purple in it looked a million times better. Blue acros dont look nearly as nice in my tank as they do in his though.

 

[Zoom]

The XM10K has very little yellow light in it. If your tank water isnt clear, it'll pick up all of it though. Running carbon or ozone makes these bulbs MUCH bluer looking.

I agreed.

 

[jjackson]

I have no yellowing in my water but I was looking for some of the 450 nm since I have the 420 from my actinic.... and I was going to use a daylight vho or two to get the reds