Tanglovers 520 Gallon Display Build

There are three 2" drains in the overflow box. There is also a 1.5" bulkhead in the overflow box to feed the center hole in the back of the tank.
 
Update, pics to come tomorrow.

Aquascaping was modified slightly to add a little more character and to make the main viewing angle a little more pleasing (due to couch location).

Wall is all done and painted.

Intank plumbing is done, all dry fit. I need to glue and then paint it - going to rough it up with some 240 grit sandpaper and then paint with Krylon Fusion paint. Then let it set up until the tank is filled - at least a week out.

Big change was I made an access door / opening on wall next to the stand to allow me to get the sumps in place easier. I made roughly a 32" x 36" opening for this. Made sure it was beefed up as this was in a load bearing wall but it is all done and went great. Is stronger now then before :) This opening was not a huge deal because my fish room is on both sides of the wall, will look nice when done. There will be plywood doors held in place with magnets.

Tomorrow game plan:

- Order the baffles for the sumps
- Clean up old equipment (BK300, Geo 818, Geo Kalk, ATBs)
- Drill holes in sumps (11 holes total)
 
I will get an update together with pictures, this week has been lots of running around and getting ready for duck hunting this weekend. The baffles for the sump are here as is I think the rest of the plumbing.

If the stock list goes as planned, there will not be very many tangs 8-9 with all but two being Zebrasomas.
 
Been doing lots of dry fitting and playing with plumbing on the tank this week. Have not worked on it a ton, built an oak bookcase for the living room and wrapping up things getting ready for winter outside (getting turtles ready to hibernate, raking leaves, final fertilizer etc).

I have some black acrylic pieces I will be using as part of the background in the tank (removable), will be painted around the closed loop holes.

I have most of the my catwalk build and painted, I just have to add the Corian to it tomorrow and install it.

Baffles will be getting isntalled in the sumps tomorrow as well (at least started - do not think I can silicone them all in at the same time, have to let some setup before moving forward on the next ones).
 
Huge tank, I can't imagine how you moved it! I can't wait to see the updates!
As for the UV you might just want to get some small maxijets/eheim pumps and run them out of the sump, that way you can control the flow to the point where it is effective on ich. That is what I did with my tank.
 
Where can you find a Clarion Angel at a good price. I know there at least $1000.00. Love the setup... Go with UV and Ozone to ver your basis. I have used an oversized UV on my 500 gallon and noticed a huge difference in algae and also never had an ick problem ever again.

Marc
 
Well it is update time finally :) I have gotten a fair amount done, though looking at the pics it may not look like it.

All the intank plumbing is done, painted and installed for the two dart closed loops. Each of these closed loops with have an ocean motions 4 way so there are a total of 2 intakes and 8 outputs. Each 2" intake was split into four 1.5" intakes with a manifold. This was all the 3000 gallons is not being drawn from one spot but spread out.

Paul for Oceans Motions gets credit for the overall water flow, he is a genius with water movement. The closed loop flow is going to be a rough "gyre" or dynamic flow which means the flow is all going in the same circular form and not being counter-productive. The flow will come down the back of the tank across the bottom to the front, up the front and across the top to the back. This is why there are four outputs along the back bottom (holes and plumbing redirected to accomodate this without drilling more holes) and four along the front top.

Back side view of the right side (as looking from the front of the tank) plumbing:

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Back side view of the left side (right side from front) plumbing:

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Plumbing was also done and routed to try and conceal as much as possible by the rockwork. The back of the tank will be black and the plumbing was all painted with black fusion paint (PVC sanded first to increase adhesion). I am very happy with the way this came out as the end product.

The background of the tank is going to bea mix of black acrylic and black paint. I wanted something to conceal the external overflow. So I added a piece of 1/8" black acrylic to the inside of the tank to hide this. There are then two large black panels on the outside of the tank in the lower corners. These are removable incase I need to inspect things back here (ie. sick fish, coral fell down etc). The rest (now clear in the below pic) will be painted black - basically around the holes in the back.

Covers in place:

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Covers removed:

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In those pics you can also see the corian covered platform I have behind the tank. This came out very well. The darts will sit on here and be a platform to stand on to work on the tank. The holes in the platform are for the two drains to go down and through.

Also the baffles are all added to the sumps. I have not cleaned up the messy silicone yet in areas I made a mess but you will get the point. It is two 90 extra wides (36" x 30" x 18" - L x W x H) that will be plumbed end to end with four 2" bulkheads.

Sump that will hold the dual skimmers:

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Second Sump - future plans unknown but it was needed for overflow of water in a power outage is the #1 purpose. It could house frags or something but no plans of this at this time:

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Current front tank shot - most of the plumbing concealed, back panels on, the clear areas wil be painted black. The sea swirls on the top rear corners will be the returns from the sump:

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Thanks Guys!

The sumps are now in place and I am plumbing in the drains. I have attached the back removable black acrylic panels with velcro. I am still undecided if I like this approach or not. Being on the outside of the tank I can always change it later if I come up with something better.

Another couple long days of plumbing and most of that should be done.

I am getting ready to move my few inverts I have left in my fish holding system to a freinds - thanks Brian for agreeing to hold my RBTAs. Once these are moved, all the fish are getting hit with 6 weeks of copper to make sure they are all disease free. By the time this is done, hopefully the 520 will be cycled for the first fish to go in.

Got a few new fish on the stocklist for the tank when it is ready to that are doing well so far in QT....that makes 4 QT tanks running now...
 
Got the back of the tank painted black today, started final closed loop plumbing - no longer dry fitting.

Still playing with the return plumbing to make it the neatest and most efficient it can be.
 
Update, pics to follow tomorrow if I get some time.

Closed loops are all done and plumbed in - two darts each with an Oceans Motions 4 ways. I used spa-flex for the longer runs and like the way it came out. I ran the long way around the tank and not across so there will not be any shadowing created.

Wendi has done some small changes to the aquascaping here and there, when I do not think it can get any better she seems to find a way to do so. I still can't beleive how awesome the aquascaping turned out.

I added the dry sand to the tank, it is about an inch and a half across the whole tank which so far equated to right about 400 lbs (dry). This was Carib Sea Special Sea Floor Grade.

Return plumbing is about 1/2 way done. The 1" sea swirls are mounted to the tank rim (drilled a 1.5" bulkhead hole to drop the nozzle down into the tank). I then removed all the plastic mounted hardware for the sea swirl and used some industrial velcro to hold it onto the euro-bracing. I also have all the UVs in place and the mechanical prefilters for each of them. This took quite a while to figure out a way that I could easily service them, remove them for cleaning and not have them take up a ton of room (there are 6 UVs and 3 mechanical filters). If all goes well the UVs will never even be turned on but I want them there incase needed.

All pressure lines (returns, closed loops) is plumbed in grey PVC and spaflex. The drain lines will all be in white PVC. Everything is also getting labeled when it is all done as well.

Tank background is all done, mix of paint (around the closed loop holes), acrylic on the outside of the aquarium (to allow me to look behind the rockwork) and the inside of the aquarium (to hide the external overflow box).

I think that is most of what I have accomplished, does not seem like much when I type it but I feel like I got a good amount done the last few days.
 
Well after much delay (from posting online), here is an update.

Tank is filled with saltwater, took I think 6 days (maybe 7 lost track), there are no leaks in the plumbing and the tank is cycling. I have the return pumps and the closed loop pumps running. Getting real nice flow in the tank, once corals are added and start to grow out I am sure more flow will be needed but I figured that from the start. The two dart closed loops were not designed to be the exclusive flow long term.

Rocks were all mortored while still dry using the mix from Marco Rocks, thi stuff worked great and I would highly recommend. There is about 350-400lbs of dry sand in the tank and comes out being around 1-1.5" thick.

All drain plumbing is done in white PCV while all feed and pressure lines are done in gray PVC (still schedule 40).

Here are some pics:

Right Side of Tank:

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Left Side of Tank:

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Back Shot of Closed Loop Pumps:

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Return Plumbing (bad shot but the best I can do until the fish holding system is moved):

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Top Shot Of Closed Loop Plumbing:

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